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Can’t get backing plate bolt off


Mertz

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I have everything loose to remove the drivers side front backing plate except the long bolt which will not budge. I have been applying liquid wrench for a few days. The hammer did not work. I tried a big c clamp without success. The only heat I can apply is from a butane torch. Is there something binding it or is it just plane stuck?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated 

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So by "long bolt" do you mean the brake anchor bolt ( goes through holes in bottom of spindle ). That should have flattened sides on the brake side of things that you can put a wrench on it and possibly turn it. If not that one then perhaps a picture indicating the problem bolt. If it is that one, there is nothing holding it but rust and the wisdom of years.

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5-19-4 are the major adjustment eccentrics/brake shoe pivot bolts which also happen to be the bottom bolts securing the backing plate.

 

I assume you have removed the nuts off the back of those. You can’t put a wrench on the flats to rotate them around to break them free?

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That is the correct bolt. I tried putting a wrench on the flats but there is not enough grip. I have bent 2 8” C clamps trying to press it out. I might try putting a nut and lock nut back on and see if I can get it to turn. It is sitting right now with the clamp pressure on it with a bunch of liquid wrench. Maybe it will pop off over night. 

 

I thought about trying to soaking it in citric acid but can’t get a tray under it. I’ll try spraying it but I will have to sit there and keep it wet. 

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Yes. I have a large socket over the brake end pushing on the backing plate and the other end on a nut turned on the bolt. I have the brake shoe off so I could go the other way. 

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Big oxy/acetylene torch and a big brass hammer on the backside loose nut. 

Been there done a couple like that.

It's just some rust/hard sludge.

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The double nut idea did not work. They both turned. 

 

I now have reverted to science. I have a bucket of citric acid solution suspended under the backing plate. I can’t get one up far enough to submerge the area to I’m using a towel and capillary action to soak the bolt and surrounding area. This might take a few days but hopefully the acid will penetrate far enough to loosen the bolt. Freeze thaw might also help. 

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Were you able to get the nut off the end of the bolt?  I spent three days on the same bolt on my '49 B1B.  I couldn't get the nut off.  Tried everything I could think of including  various penetrating oils, heat with MAPP gas, then spraying penetrating on it while still hot.  Finally used a 24" pipe wrench on the nut.  Wrenched the nut and twisted and broke the bolt.  More penetrating oil and heat then hammer and punch then c clamp, etc.  Finally came out.  Stick with it.  It will eventually come out even if it is in pieces.  Problem is finding a replacement.  For a temporary fix I cobbled a replacement bolt together.  Working well.  Still in there until I find a replacement.  I don't drive the truck often.   Last time was the 2019 4th of July parade. 

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Haven’t tried it lately. I probably have to soak it until after Christmas. I don’t want to damage the bolt. The nut is off. 

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For rusted parts i use water. And an air hammer. Rattling on the casting to knock tge rust loose. But its only effective if no oil has been sprayed on it. 
 

i would prop up my propane torch and let it heat while i drink a cup of coffee.then hit it with cold water. Rinse and repeat. The rapid cooling, will break down the rust, as well as draw in water, then extra heat will turn water into steam, also breaking up the rust. 

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Using water is a clever idea.  Have some experience with  thermal shock blowing friction material off wet aircraft brakes.  Will try if a situation arises.  FYI: a seller on Ebay  has the long brake anchor brake in new condition for $55.00 each including shipping.  Think that is why I cobbled up a replacement bolt myself.  Regards.

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On one of my favorite YouTube sites they tested different penetrating oils including water and water did not migrate into the nut like liquid wrench did. Unfortunately it is warming up here in Spokane so the freeze thaw thermal shock is not working. I will try the propane torch to create steam once I know my acid has had time to penetrate the bolt. 

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When I restored my gray Market Kubota for a lot of the really rusted stuff I used a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), I had never heard of this mixture until I was on the OTT, orange tractor talk forum, might be worth a go?

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On the YouTube site acetone and ATF did very well but was still behind liquid wrench. I think it might have been second. Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can. You can’t put it in a spray bottle without destroying the bottle. It will also evaporate fairly quickly so the working time is limited. 

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12 minutes ago, Mertz said:

Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can.

 

Yes it's pretty much mix brush on, mix brush on, mix brush on, you get the picture.

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1 hour ago, Mertz said:

On the YouTube site acetone and ATF did very well but was still behind liquid wrench. I think it might have been second. Acetone is pretty harsh and the combination is not as easy to apply as a spray can. You can’t put it in a spray bottle without destroying the bottle. It will also evaporate fairly quickly so the working time is limited. 

Everybody should own one (or more) of these:Amazon.com: CRC Sure Shot Reusable Sprayer (14016), Package may vary:  Sports & Outdoors

We used them in my first job, service station,  whitewall cleaner at the wash rack, bug cleaner at the service islands and penetrating oils at the service bays.  Several nozzles are available for pinpoint to narrow cone to wide cone.  Just fill will liquid and add air pressure.

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11 hours ago, billrigsby said:

When I restored my gray Market Kubota for a lot of the really rusted stuff I used a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), I had never heard of this mixture until I was on the OTT, orange tractor talk forum, might be worth a go?

OTT has some great info. I also have a grey market tractor. L1501. Awesome little machine. 

Edited by Tooljunkie
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12 hours ago, Mertz said:

On one of my favorite YouTube sites they tested different penetrating oils including water and water did not migrate into the nut like liquid wrench did. Unfortunately it is warming up here in Spokane so the freeze thaw thermal shock is not working. I will try the propane torch to create steam once I know my acid has had time to penetrate the bolt. 

Water and vibration, percussion will work. Boss had a stuck trailer hitch. He chained to a tree, was afraid he would rip the hitch out of the frame. We used hot water and my air hammer, within a minute it was out. 

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I have been hammering on the control arm to introduce vibration. I did that while I had the clamp pressure on. I have better access to brake side of the bolt so I’ll try wiggling it back and forth with a crescent wrench. 

 

I’ll definitely have to get one of those sure shots. I think we had one similar in the “service station” when I worked there in high school and college.

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4 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

OTT has some great info. I also have a grey market tractor. L1501. Awesome little machine. 

 

So you are the same Tooljunkie!

 

Small world I was wondering.

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2 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

That’s me! 
and yes it is a small world, considering i visit 3 forums regularily. 

Well hello, and I know the third one is not a Hyundai Santa Fe forum LOL

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