Rust removal

[Mertz]

Just wanted to let everyone know about what I found to be one of the best rust removal methods I have ever used. First, if the part is very dirty, I soak it in water with some oxyclean. Once the dirt is gone I soak it a 10% solution of citric acid and water. I usually let is soak overnight but some parts clean up quicker. I am going through all my nuts and bolts putting them in a mason jar. They come out rust free with a nice black coating on them. I then put them back in their bag and spray them with WD40. I’m just finishing up my brake drums and backing plates. On the drum and backing plates I go over them with a wire wheel. I did the emergency brake handle but could not get everything in the vat. When I took it to the wire wheel the unsoaked part was much more difficult to clean. 

[dcotant]

I used the molasses method on some parts, pretty amazing but weeks instead of overnight....

 

Love the golden hammer.

[kencombs]

Thanks for the reminder  Citric works well.  Really any mild acid works, even white vinegar.  A pressure wash is the fastest way to get rid of that black stuff.  I just did a set of 8" casters for mason's scaffolding.  5 gal buck, vinegar, wash, blow dry and WD40  to remove residual moisture.

 

vinegar is cheap here during canning season, lot's of gardeners, so I stock up.  Otherwise order citric online cheaply.

 

 

[Mertz]

I tried vinegar first. It loosened the rust but left it on the bolts and was pretty messy. With the citric acid it either converts everything or what’s loose can be easily brushed off or falls off with a little shake. I got a 10lb bag of citric acid on line for $12. 

 

I’m almost ready to order wheel cylinders and brake pads and seals and the rear brakes will be done. I plan on painting everything with POR15 unless someone has a better suggestion. 

[kencombs]

13 minutes ago, Mertz said:

I tried vinegar first. It loosened the rust but left it on the bolts and was pretty messy. With the citric acid it either converts everything or what’s loose can be easily brushed off or falls off with a little shake. I got a 10lb bag of citric acid on line for $12. 

 

I’m almost ready to order wheel cylinders and brake pads and seals and the rear brakes will be done. I plan on painting everything with POR15 unless someone has a better suggestion. 

Yeah, it's not as fast as citric.  I use overnite soaks on thick stuff.

 

I'm not a POR15 fan on clean metal.  Works fine on rusty stuff but doesn't seem to really stick on clean metal.  Epoxy followed by topcoat of choice for me.

[Mertz]

Gold hammer is a retirement present. Can I use epoxy paint on the drums or do I need high temperature paint?  I can’t get the Rust-Oleum epoxy but can get the VHT. 

[NiftyFifty]

Drums get pretty hot, I’d recommend VHT or Por-15, I used it on my 67 Monaco and it’s still like the day I painted it 3 years ago 

[Mertz]

I think I’ll use VHT on the drums but some type of moisture cured urethane on the rest of the frame and not overly heated parts.  My dad was a research chemist when I was growing up and developed 2 products. One was a moisturizer cured urethane rubber that is now known as a tartan rubber used on athletic tracks and sewer pipe gaskets and the other was a moisture cured urethane coating. I think my dad would be happy with using POR15 or KBS for the frame. 

 

We tried using the urethane rubber on tires and the big tire companies put an end to that. Our test on my go cart showed it was not better than Goodyear anyway. 

[ggdad1951]

14 hours ago, kencombs said:

Yeah, it's not as fast as citric.  I use overnite soaks on thick stuff.

 

I'm not a POR15 fan on clean metal.  Works fine on rusty stuff but doesn't seem to really stick on clean metal.  Epoxy followed by topcoat of choice for me.

POR15 REQUIRES a surface layer of rust to stick.

 

Personally, I like the electrolysis method of rust removal.  Slower, but cleanup is a snap.

[Mertz]

The frame will likely still have rust on it so it will get POR15. I plan on having it media blasted and if it is to clean I’ll use epoxy. 

[ggdad1951]

10 minutes ago, Mertz said:

The frame will likely still have rust on it so it will get POR15. I plan on having it media blasted and if it is to clean I’ll use epoxy. 

if you follow the POR15 instructions you will end up with a nice layer of oxide to bond to.

[Lingle]

I have had good luck with POR15 on sandblasted parts(i.e. front and rear axle housings), here is from their website, it does say rusted are best but others can be used.  Just remember that POR15 needs to be topcoated since it doesnt handle UV well.  I will say POR15 is great stuff, however when you need to scuff the surface to put the top coat on, depending on the area size and what it is can be a PIA.  My Dana 60 front axle only took 1 small can of POR15 to coat it and roughly 30 min.  Scuff and wipe down prior to top coat was 2.5 hrs, but maybe Im a little picky.

 

here is the website: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html

 

POR-15 APPLICATION PROCEDURES

Surface preparation: 
Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and sandblasted surfaces are also good.

[kencombs]

55 minutes ago, Lingle said:

I have had good luck with POR15 on sandblasted parts(i.e. front and rear axle housings), here is from their website, it does say rusted are best but others can be used.  Just remember that POR15 needs to be topcoated since it doesnt handle UV well.  I will say POR15 is great stuff, however when you need to scuff the surface to put the top coat on, depending on the area size and what it is can be a PIA.  My Dana 60 front axle only took 1 small can of POR15 to coat it and roughly 30 min.  Scuff and wipe down prior to top coat was 2.5 hrs, but maybe Im a little picky.

 

here is the website: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html

 

POR-15 APPLICATION PROCEDURES

Surface preparation: 
Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and sandblasted surfaces are also good.

I suspect the sandblasted finish provides enough 'tooth' or texture for good adhesion.  Wire wheels just polish the surface and make it too slick.

 

Not sure what they mean by 'seasoned metal', salt and pepper or??

[ggdad1951]

When I did FEF, I degreased and Metal Prepped the surfaces...once washed clean, 2 days later there was a nice light oxide layer...the POR15 has stuck like it was welded on.  I did NOT topcoat when the POR15 was stick tacky as you should, but rather fully cured out.  Still have not had the top coat peel tho.