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Advice on 1950 deluxe generator


RecklessBattleBorn

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Thank you RecklessBattleBorn for the picture of your installation. 
 I would like to respectfully ask a few questions to make sure I got this right. 
  Your 6volt battery is still positive ground?

 -the single wire from the alternator now goes directly to your negative battery post?

 - I’m wondering what the smaller wire on your positive battery post is for & where it terminates? 
     Thank you 

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@RecklessBattleBornHow did you connect the output of your alternator? It sounds like it may be connected directly to the battery without going through your ammeter. This would explain why you measure good output of the alternator with a volt meter, but nothing registers on the ammeter. 

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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

@RecklessBattleBornHow did you connect the output of your alternator? It sounds like it may be connected directly to the battery without going through your ammeter. This would explain why you measure good output of the alternator with a volt meter, but nothing registers on the ammeter. 

 

That's probably what has happened. The alternator needs to be connected to the same wire that was on the 'battery' terminal of the old regulator, this wire goes directly to the ammeter. That will make the ammeter work the same as before.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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7 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

If you are seeing 7.5v the alternator is working just fine. I've never seen my one-wire alternator need to be revved to start working, the ammeter shows a charge immediately after the engine starts.

 

Sam it depends on idle speed and the pulley size of the alternator. My '28 idles around 450rpm and needs a good rev of the engine, my '37 idles around 600rpm but still needs a little rev to get the alternator to excite.

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33 minutes ago, maok said:

 

Sam it depends on idle speed and the pulley size of the alternator. My '28 idles around 450rpm and needs a good rev of the engine, my '37 idles around 600rpm but still needs a little rev to get the alternator to excite.

 

If cold my '48 is started with the choke which has a fast idle of 1200-ish rpm. Hot starts sometime need a little throttle blip, so I have never seen the alternator not charging.....hot idle is ~700.

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6 minutes ago, RecklessBattleBorn said:

I'll give it a try in the morning thanks for advice

If you have the alternator wire going to the Battery then, as others have mentioned, it is not connected correctly, though it will work.

 

You need to make sure the alternator wire goes either directly to the ammeter or connected to the old 'BAT' terminal where it was on the voltage regulator, which goes to the ammeter.

I would recommend you consult an auto electrician.

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On 1/4/2021 at 2:48 AM, Saskwatch said:

Thank you RecklessBattleBorn for the picture of your installation. 
 I would like to respectfully ask a few questions to make sure I got this right. 
  Your 6volt battery is still positive ground?

 -the single wire from the alternator now goes directly to your negative battery post?

 - I’m wondering what the smaller wire on your positive battery post is for & where it terminates? 
     Thank you 

Still 6 positive ground, that small wire coming off my positive is a ground going to my Auto-choke. The wire off the alternator goes to the negative post but I'm moving it later today as was recommended

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On 1/4/2021 at 5:13 AM, Sniper said:

If it's still positive ground then the ammeter should work properly, but if it's now a negative ground the ammeter will read backwards.  Which is it?

Still positive ground.

On 1/4/2021 at 11:22 AM, Merle Coggins said:

@RecklessBattleBornHow did you connect the output of your alternator? It sounds like it may be connected directly to the battery without going through your ammeter. This would explain why you measure good output of the alternator with a volt meter, but nothing registers on the ammeter. 

It is directly wired, I'll be moving it later today.

 

15 hours ago, maok said:

 

 

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