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Advice on 1950 deluxe generator


RecklessBattleBorn

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noticed the other night that my amp meter always seemed to be on the negative side, didn't think it was that a big of a deal until this morning when I ran a diagnostic on my battery and found it was below 40%. so I go to look at the generator and sure enough it wasn't putting out enough to charge. go to take it out and one of the posts just comes right off (picture included). Basically what I want to know is rebuild or replace? if rebuild what kit would you recommend? if replace what option would you recommend and why?

129613631_10157363147401793_1930577784810040277_n.jpg

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I spent $150 to have mine rebuilt, as it was original to the car.  It looks as though yours might be as well - that plate should contain a manufacturing date/date code that might help you with your decision.

_

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Must be someone in your metro area that still does repairs on generators. Sure there is many old car collectors and such in Lost  Wages,(Las Vegas)  N.V. which is close to you!

Take it to one to look at it and test. Get a quote for repair/refurbishment.

 

There are no New ones for sale only used/unknown operation and "repaired" online sales which is a also an unknown unless bought from the local shop and guaranteed. Most parts for these are still available and are not hard repairs for the experienced

I would also take the gen. regulator with the gen. to a shop to have tested also. It takes two to tango and also the pair to make voltage on our cars.

 

JMO,

 

DJ

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They are not hard to rebuild yourself. Brushes and bearings are readily available. Front pulley can be a bit hard to get off and bearing needs a small puller. Find someone with a lathe to face the commutator if needed. You may need a soldering iron with decent heat input and some slip-on insulation sleeve to replace ant dodgy bits. There are lots of posts with helpful info.

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7 hours ago, RecklessBattleBorn said:

Thanks for the quick responses, definitely helped with a decision. Rebuild it is.

As DJ194950  noted,remember to take the voltage regulator with you and get it tested also. They are a married pair. If one has problems,so does the other one.

 

New voltage regulators are not that expensive,and still easily found. I bought a brand new aftermarket voltage regulator for my 51 Ford within the last year from EBAY,and paid less than 25 bucks for it,and it was a major aftermarket brand from the 50's,still in the box.

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8 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

If you can't reach a good resolution with your old genny and regulator, there are 6v, one-wire (no regulator) alternators available at a very reasonable price. Mine has been flawless and puts out 7.5v @ idle.

Tell me more I'm intrigued

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12 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

As DJ194950  noted,remember to take the voltage regulator with you and get it tested also. They are a married pair. If one has problems,so does the other one.

 

New voltage regulators are not that expensive,and still easily found. I bought a brand new aftermarket voltage regulator for my 51 Ford within the last year from EBAY,and paid less than 25 bucks for it,and it was a major aftermarket brand from the 50's,still in the box.

I have a regulator sitting in a cart for purchase just in case and I'm pulling the old one out to take to get tested tomorrow

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28 minutes ago, RecklessBattleBorn said:

I have a regulator sitting in a cart for purchase just in case and I'm pulling the old one out to take to get tested tomorrow

Buy it anyhow and leave it in the trunk. Better to have one in the trunk when you go off driving somewhere,than to need one and have to wait a week to have one shipped to you so you can drive back home.

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1 hour ago, RecklessBattleBorn said:

Tell me more I'm intrigued

 

Here is my alternator:

 

battery-cables.jpg.170835f77eef60de30c32a996c568276.jpg

 

This is the vendor I used, best price and excellent support:

 

https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

The alternator is a single-wire device, internally regulated. The old regulator can be removed or remain in place as just a junction terminal (I threw my old regulator away and returned the new one that was DOA). This is a simple installation and the ammeter continues to work as designed. Your headlights will be brighter at idle and the battery will stay fully charged. No brainer.

 

You can also see the correct gauge battery cables that are essential to making your starter work at full capacity.

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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1 hour ago, knuckleharley said:

Buy it anyhow and leave it in the trunk. Better to have one in the trunk when you go off driving somewhere,than to need one and have to wait a week to have one shipped to you so you can drive back home.

Good call, I'll do that, thanks

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4 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Here is my alternator:

 

battery-cables.jpg.170835f77eef60de30c32a996c568276.jpg

 

This is the vendor I used, best price and excellent support:

 

https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

The alternator is a single-wire device, internally regulated. The old regulator can be removed or remain in place as just a junction terminal (I threw my old regulator away and returned the new one that was DOA). This is a simple installation and the ammeter continues to work as designed. Your headlights will be brighter at idle and the battery will stay fully charged. No brainer.

 

You can also see the correct gauge battery cables that are essential to making your starter work at full capacity.

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html

Well I just ordered one, I'm still going to have my generator and regulator rebuilt but I'll put them on a shelf for a back up. 

 

Is the wire with the inline fuse the one coming up from the alternator?

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  • 4 weeks later...
9 hours ago, RecklessBattleBorn said:

One last question, Did you make your bracket or did you find one that fit? My alternator came in the mail tonight after being "lost" for the last 20 days

 

I made my bracket out of 1/8" x 1" steel strap. There are generic alternator brackets available, here are a couple but there are others:

 

https://www.carid.com/spectre/alternator-bracket-mpn-42273.html?view=505407&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD94DAB6qsVNoaJ-qaKbvZQ1JJlD4qN-y5t7uGyIb9w6De2vfUAMpMkaAkVSEALw_wcB

 

https://www.motorcityreman.com/getoalbr.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=getoalbr&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD8tSJwBQm0RqjeNv7asK8o8srqZIcLr9vHbLErPWUpPnLx0N3_eHUcaAr4jEALw_wcB

 

Howard Enterprises, where I got my alternator, also sells an adjustable bracket:

 

https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt/Universal-Alternator-Bracket/_i.html?_storecat=7040873016

 

s-l225.webp

 

 

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Sam Buchanan, I’m very interested in the 6volt , one wire, alternator system you have installed. 
  I would like to ask what amp alternator you used and with this system, what do I do with the two wires that were attached to the two posts on the original generator? 
    Thank you ,

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2 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

Sam Buchanan, I’m very interested in the 6volt , one wire, alternator system you have installed. 
  I would like to ask what amp alternator you used and with this system, what do I do with the two wires that were attached to the two posts on the original generator? 
    Thank you ,

 

I use a 60a alternator which is more than large enough for the standard system on the P15.

 

The two wires (armature and field) that attach to the generator are not used and are disconnected from the regulator if you leave it in place. The single wire from the alternator connects to the large wire that is on the 'battery' terminal on the old regulator. You can either leave the regulator in place and just use it to connect the alternator wire or remove it and connect the alternator directly to the "battery' lead in the wiring harness (that's what I did).

 

I put a 60a fuse in the alternator line but that is just my decision, it isn't necessary for functionality.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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got the alternator in and wired up, it's putting out 7.5 volts on my volt meter but the ammeter is sitting a neutral but if I hit my head lights it show a discharge, so I don't think that's working quite right just yet but it'll get figured out eventually. Thanks again for the recommendation @Sam Buchanan and the advice on that bracket I really appreciate it.

134079235_2854065224879197_6984215434145225779_n.jpg

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With the single wire alternators, you need to give the engine a bit of a rev to excite it. The ammeter should kick in then, its a little bit of an annoyance but not much.

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