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Ready to Start the Engine Build (what am I missing)?


billrigsby

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Got everything together, almost ready to start the build of my engine.

 

NEVER done this before, made a check list!

 

PLEASE those with experience, tell me if you see any thing I am missing, Want to do this once ONLY!

I have read everything and anything I could find.

 

 

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Here is the test start check list.

(any dimensions for a wooden stand to hold the engine for a test start?)

 

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2 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

 

I remembered it but did not remember to put it on my list but I certainly will, thank you

 

That's exactly what I'm looking for, I tend to overlook the obvious sometimes

Edited by billrigsby
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4 minutes ago, squirebill said:

Spark plugs?  Did I miss them?

 

SPARK PLUGS, We don't need no stinking spark plugs!

 

Dang - That may have been obvious when the time came.

 

Why do I feel like I am going to feel really stupid after all the comments?

Edited by billrigsby
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I see bolting sprocket on the camshaft so the camshaft was installed somewhere along the line but not listed.  Also, don't see any intake or exhaust valves, guides, springs, keepers, lapping and gapping.  Crankshaft belt drive pulley/vibration damper, water pump belt pulley and fan.  Fan belt.   Some fun, eh.  Regards

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cold set the tappets?

torque set the manifolds?

install heat riser spring?

 

BTW nice list, when you get it done clean it up and I'll get it stuck in the stickies up top someplace.  You remembered the sealant on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket, many do not.

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billrigsby......I admire your effort to develop this list.  In no  way am I trying to make anyone "feel stupid".  I went through building up an engine in August of 2019 without a list and I was starting with a "short block" that had come from a machine shop.     Seemed like there were a hundred little things that had to be done.  I remember my concern was doing something and then having to undo it because I should have done something else first.  A list with the proper sequence would have been great.  The service manual gives a pretty good description of how to do things but doesn't really give it in a sequence.  For example, the manual gives a good description of how to rebuild a water pump but does not mention how to install the water pump and where to use sealant when doing it.  I don't believe the manual mentions installing the flywheel attaching bolts before you install the crank shaft in the block.  Your list does this.  I think the best part of your list will be the proper sequence of doing things so a builder wouldn't have to "back track".  Imagine the frustration of building up an engine only to find there were no bolts in the crank shaft to mount the flywheel.  A  list  including this kind of information it would be a great help to all.   Keep plugging away.  Best regards.

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Not sure what the machine shop did, but make sure you chase all the threads and clean the block, clean the block, and clean the block again.  Make sure you get all the oil passages cleaned out, and clean the block.  Don't forget new freeze plugs, use a good assembly lube on the bearings

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20 hours ago, squirebill said:

I see bolting sprocket on the camshaft so the camshaft was installed somewhere along the line but not listed.  Also, don't see any intake or exhaust valves, guides, springs, keepers, lapping and gapping.  Crankshaft belt drive pulley/vibration damper, water pump belt pulley and fan.  Fan belt.   Some fun, eh.  Regards

Complete valve job done at the shop, will add; Crankshaft belt drive pulley/vibration damper, water pump belt pulley

going to keep the fan off for a test run, (already missing some fingers!)

 

 

19 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

I marked my pistons so I put the connecting rods in the proper order with the oiling hole to the front

 

I like that idea!

 

 

10 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

cold set the tappets?

torque set the manifolds?

install heat riser spring?

 

BTW nice list, when you get it done clean it up and I'll get it stuck in the stickies up top someplace.  You remembered the sealant on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket, many do not.

Complete valve job done at the shop, will add; torque set the manifolds and install heat riser spring, 

still need to hot tank the manifolds and oil pan.

 

 

8 hours ago, squirebill said:

billrigsby......I admire your effort to develop this list.  In no  way am I trying to make anyone "feel stupid".  I went through building up an engine in August of 2019 without a list and I was starting with a "short block" that had come from a machine shop.     Seemed like there were a hundred little things that had to be done.  I remember my concern was doing something and then having to undo it because I should have done something else first.  A list with the proper sequence would have been great.  The service manual gives a pretty good description of how to do things but doesn't really give it in a sequence.  For example, the manual gives a good description of how to rebuild a water pump but does not mention how to install the water pump and where to use sealant when doing it.  I don't believe the manual mentions installing the flywheel attaching bolts before you install the crank shaft in the block.  Your list does this.  I think the best part of your list will be the proper sequence of doing things so a builder wouldn't have to "back track".  Imagine the frustration of building up an engine only to find there were no bolts in the crank shaft to mount the flywheel.  A  list  including this kind of information it would be a great help to all.   Keep plugging away.  Best regards.

Definitely was not implying that, but spark plugs, yeah kinda dumb to miss that!!

This is exactly why I put the question out there

 

7 hours ago, baby_gonzo said:

Not sure what the machine shop did, but make sure you chase all the threads and clean the block, clean the block, and clean the block again.  Make sure you get all the oil passages cleaned out, and clean the block.  Don't forget new freeze plugs, use a good assembly lube on the bearings

Block was hot tanked and cleaned, need to check on the threads, freeze plugs and oil plugs installed at the shop.

Did forget to "Paint the Block"

 

 

 

THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!

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Thanks, I'll add that to Rev3

 

Heading to Cali for Thanksgiving tomorrow, here is the latest....

 

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EVERYONE BE SAFE and ENJOY

HAPPY THANKSGIVING !!!

Engine AssemblyStart-Up Check List.pdf

Edited by billrigsby
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Great list.  I understand you had your valve system done at a machine shop and all is in good order.  Would however suggest you add a check box somewhere before you install the valve covers, head, and manifolds stating something like: Verify valve system is complete and valves properly set/gapped.  Also, would recommend you install a temporary oil pressure gauge and a way to measure water temperature.(gauge, thermometer,etc).  Will need a start motor switch, start motor solenoid and an ignition coil on/off/kill switch (key ignition switch will do or individual switches as required ). Also recommend having a fire extinguisher handy.  Best regards.  Enjoy the holiday , travel safe, and stay healthy

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I would add, mark your timing mark on the crank pulley, i wire brushed mine off while cleaning up the pulley and it is a bugger to read way down there afterwards (at least for my old eyes ).

 

Actually does anyone have a picture of the marks on the pulley, i think there is a major mark at 10 BTDC, TDC, and 10 ATDC but like I said my eyes are not allowing me to see the actual writing on the pulley. This is for a 52 B3B, I will try to look at my 49 pulley and maybe it is the same.

 

Never mind I found the pulley for my 49 and it does appear to be the same 10, 10, and TDC between them.

Edited by dcotant
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15 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Thanks for this list. I downloaded it. I will use it as I reassemble my engine this winter.

 

Very good, let me know if you find any glaring or omissions, I think it's been pretty well fine-tuned based on everyone's input

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I'd probably change a couple things, maybe it's a personal preference thing, but I'd start the list with chase all threads and clean block and then move the mask and paint down the list to where the long block is complete closed up and before adding any of the exterior pieces, brackets, etc.  Invariably, you're going to get assembly lube, oil, gasket sealers on the exterior of the engine as well as the occasional slipped wrench marks while assembling the internal components.  You'll have less to mask after a quick additional wipedown, less time and less paint than doing individual parts painting.

 

The next step is doing the actual build, following the process you've outlined and verifying the sequence.  It's a weekend build time since the valve train is already complete if you have everything prepped to go when you start.

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1 hour ago, Dave72dt said:

I'd probably change a couple things, maybe it's a personal preference thing, but I'd start the list with chase all threads and clean block and then move the mask and paint down the list to where the long block is complete closed up and before adding any of the exterior pieces, brackets, etc.  Invariably, you're going to get assembly lube, oil, gasket sealers on the exterior of the engine as well as the occasional slipped wrench marks while assembling the internal components.  You'll have less to mask after a quick additional wipedown, less time and less paint than doing individual parts painting.

 

The next step is doing the actual build, following the process you've outlined and verifying the sequence.  It's a weekend build time since the valve train is already complete if you have everything prepped to go when you start.

Good choices.

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3 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

I'd probably change a couple things, maybe it's a personal preference thing, but I'd start the list with chase all threads and clean block and then move the mask and paint down the list to where the long block is complete closed up and before adding any of the exterior pieces, brackets, etc.  Invariably, you're going to get assembly lube, oil, gasket sealers on the exterior of the engine as well as the occasional slipped wrench marks while assembling the internal components.  You'll have less to mask after a quick additional wipedown, less time and less paint than doing individual parts painting.

 

The next step is doing the actual build, following the process you've outlined and verifying the sequence.  It's a weekend build time since the valve train is already complete if you have everything prepped to go when you start.

 

Thank you for your suggestions, after giving it some thought they do make a lot of sense. I especially like the idea of painting the entire assembled long block.

 

I ordered and am currently waiting on a Motor Coater kit what should have been here Thursday then yesterday and now who knows when maybe Monday. Also waiting on a thread chaser kit since I did not have one and it is ill-advised to use a standard tap and die set for that purpose.

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All changes have been incorporated and the final document is in the download section;

Engine Assembly Start-Up Check List.pdf 4.0.0

 

 

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.

 

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