Plymouthy Adams Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 one experience from years ago on another model vehicle the entire exhaust was changed...customer did not like the sound and I did not blame him as it was on a luxury car platform. Chasing of tail found the problem to be in the light gauge metal exhaust pipe utilized as the header pipe off the manifold leading to the muffler. This pipe should have been in a much heavier gauge metal and when fabricated from said heavier metal pipe and swapped onto the manifolds, instant relief of offending noises and a happy customer. I also would not rule out such things as possible damaged manifolds, gaskets at the split of the manifolds right down to the fact they could have physically moved the heat riser and damaged it to stay stuck in place...this is going to take a hand over hand inspection for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 I would ask the second shop to remove all the manifolds, it only takes 15 minutes unless something is rusted and then it takes 30 minutes. I would then take the intake and exhaust manifold apart and have them both sandblasted and then examine them. I have seen there a new exhaust system has been put on a car and therefore you have more back pressure on the engine. If there is a hole between the floor of the intake and exhaust manifold (not uncommon) then with the greater back pressure of a "good" exhaust system the air gets pushed up into it. I would also call Vintage Power Wagons and order their Stud, Washer and Nut kit. Have the second shop, once they are SURE that both manifolds are good paint them, use the new studs, use new gaskets between the manifolds and the manifolds and the block and put it back in. Then and only then if there is still and issue, have them adjust the valves and look for one that is stuck. You can also run one tank of gas with some Marvel Mystery oil in it. I do that if I am heading to Reno from San Francisco or over Grants Pass into Oregon with the car. Good luck, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMinelli Posted December 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 An update! The second shop called and said the muffler the first shop installed is plugged. They told me they dropped it down and the top had gotten so hot the muffler deformed itself. They have returned the muffler for me and got a new one from a different source and are installing it. They said it is possible something was damaged from the plugged muffler and will do a once over once installed. I will be doing my own once over when I get the car back next week. Per the second shop, the first shop thought they broke something in the transmission and we’re trying to fix it. They didn’t break anything - I have a bad throw out bearing I knew about. The second shop fixed that for me but said there is likely an issue with a crankshaft bushing based on some marks they noticed when reassembling everything. I’m going to do all future work myself on the car simply because I can take the time to study the manual and do it right. Is the bell housing hard to take off with the engine in the car? I don’t want to pull the engine if I don’t have to. I can work under Jack stands and will happily do so if the level of service is that of the first shop for most places. (I will give a shout out to the second shop once I get the car back and it looks good. They have been nothing but great). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Good to hear a more upbeat positive report! Glad to hear the situation is improving. I’m unsure what shop #2 is referring to, a crank bushing? Maybe they mean pilot bushing for the transmission pinion? No need to take the bell housing off to change it. I do however recommend a pilot bearing puller. Skip the “bread” or “grease” tips to remove it. Didn’t work for me. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Grease has worked for me ... hydraulic pressure is amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Glad things are getting sorted out. Im curious how the muffler got so hot, or maybe just a cheap muffler? in lieu of grease or bread, wet paper towel works too. The pusher has do be a near perfect fit to the pilot bushing. the preference to do your own work will be more rewarding than paying a bill. And what you save in labour can go towards more tools! there is a wealth of knowledge here,and many im sure are willing to give great advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 (edited) My experience with grease and the pilot bushing was documented here. I screwed around to save $20 on a pilot bushing puller. Gave up. Bought the puller and had the bushing out in 60 seconds flat! Fast forward to the 8:20 mark. Edited December 6, 2020 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 17 hours ago, ChrisMinelli said: An update! The second shop called and said the muffler the first shop installed is plugged. They told me they dropped it down and the top had gotten so hot the muffler deformed itself. They have returned the muffler for me and got a new one from a different source and are installing it. They said it is possible something was damaged from the plugged muffler and will do a once over once installed. I will be doing my own once over when I get the car back next week. (I will give a shout out to the second shop once I get the car back and it looks good. They have been nothing but great). I'd be doing some exploratory surgery on the plugged muffler. I'd just have to know how a new muffler is plugged. And, it is doubtful that the plug caused it to overheat, a plug will kill the engine and heat stops. Anyone remember the old potato in the exhaust prank. A deformed muffler is most often caused by a backfire (actually an afterfire) of unburned fuel in the exhaust. I've seen them spit end to end from that. Kids would rev it in second, turn off the ignition, let it coast with the car rotating the engine, then turn the key back on. Makes a satisfying boom and fire out back. Maybe something like that happened to yours that is what plugged the muffler, broke all the baffles loose? That trick only works on old cars like ours, no steering lock to mess it up. One of the mechanics reliving his young days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 I would personally be more inclined to take my car to a tractor repair shop than to an automotive shop, simply because tractors used the older technology more recently than in the automotive industry. (But then there are also Amish-owned engine repair shops around here that rebuild the old hit and miss engines, and also some older stationary engines.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Pretty difficult to picture the possibilities of a "new" muffler being installed and clogged. May be possible people search out a NOS muffler, I dunno. I have never seen someone asking for one. I cant imagine a new muffler clogged unless they have a major mouse infestation. A dented muffler causing the restriction ... I can understand that .... no way the mechanic could install it without knowing about it. Something still stinks here ... I just hope the op gets the car home soon and we can start giving honest evaluation of whats going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Maybe the muffler was installed backwards and the reverese flow deformed the baffles internally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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