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FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later


billrigsby

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Well I decided to go back out, can't leave well enough alone, since it's really not that well.

 

Popped the cover off the oil pump and carefully flushed it with brake cleaner to see what might come out.

I was hoping there'd be some big chunk of something that was obvious, but nothing.

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After I finally freed up the assembly, it takes five full rotations to make one full cycle.

For every rotation there is a hard spot if you would call it that, where it kind of grabs.

20220107_175204_copy_1200x1600.jpg.4da1c18a862d11ef523584530d4c27b4.jpg

 

No obvious reason for failure, I'll button it up in case they want it back for the warranty. If there is one.

I know the ones purchased from summit racing were replaced under warranty.

 

 

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Dang...sorry to hear that, especially since I just ordered a Melling M-37 through Amazon.  Spooking me. When I get it might hook it up to a drill and turn it with oil in it, or do something to check it out...dang again.  Main thing I dread.

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I'll just look at this as a glass half-full, at least I get to index the oil pump correctly.

I'm just pretending to not be pissed off right now, oh well.

 

Excrement Occurs

 

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I am wondering, has anyone put an engine on an engine stand with the bellhousing in clutch installed?

 

Or should I completely disassemble that also and just put the long block on the engine stand?

 

I'm not asking if you would do it I'm asking if it has been done, I don't want to be the guinea pig LOL.

 

 

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I'm at the first time stage myself.  The further out the weight is from its connection on the stand, the more stress on the bolts.   Another factor (that wouldn't happen) would be the amount of weight past the rollers on the leg extensions..nothing we have is that long.  I know someone stated to make sure the bolts are very tight, movement will cause them to fail.  Wish I had an answer.

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Decided that since I have a Harbor Freight 1 ton stand

(that, based on the country of origin, metal and weld quality is probably good for 3/4 ton)

Strip it back to a long block, I have no idea what a fully dressed engine weighs in at.

Better safe than sorrier than we already are!

466266550_145Backwherewewhere1stofNovember.jpg.2fc7313231aea2132ce443fbf8302f3b.jpg

 

So, back to where we were the first of November.

Oil drained, need to drain fuel pump, filter and carb.

 

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Oil pan removed,

20220109_110537.jpg.93e7fab593ecefbcf0b074d1aafeff4c.jpg

 

Bits removed

20220109_110609_1600x1200.jpg.17dbe69d86857db66efb41e6764bff81.jpg

 

time for the moment of truth......

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A series of photos through one rotation of the cam

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20220109_112949_1600x1200.jpg.f2066584a9eebf9dc44e10c575f03982.jpg

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20220109_113044_1600x1200.jpg.0c261a92f8da7e1e0f68e07488008aa0.jpg

 

20220109_113115_1600x1200.jpg.5716ca229f0b965ddb62456021f58729.jpg

 

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This is the only damage i found, minimal one one tooth,

may have dodged the bullet on this one

1950372685_Onetoothminimaldamage.JPG.10de64cc9542e1973e3e9c53ca585ba3.JPG

 

I am thinking burnish it with a sander bit on the Dremel and run with it.

 

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Hate to bug you, but is there any chance smaller pieces went anywhere else like the adjacent lower rods (side gaps) or flung out and stuck on the adjacent cylinder walls? Just turning it without it starting wouldn't be flinging pieces far, but the force to pop pieces off the gear would be high. Paranoid me would be taking the 2 nearby rod caps off and re-cleaning, maybe flushing the pan thoroughly and wiping the adjacent cylinders with the pistons at the top to see if there was any sand size residue. 

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Offering advice is in no way bugging anyone. 

 

I do still have a lot of inspection to do, this was all I had time for today.

I first want to line up the three pieces to the gear and see if they look like

they all came from the gear and did a clean break, one may be from the cam, pan is soaking with kerosene right now.

to be ran through an old coffee filter.

 

Hope to get back at it tomorrow after work, will be too late when I get home tonight.

 

I actually didn't think about removing the caps but not a bad idea, once I get the engine flipped over right side up, I planned on getting every cylinder at top dead center and cleaning the cylinder walls with brake cleaner.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

 

Edited by billrigsby
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BORED, sitting here at an event I'd rather not be at, just looked up the Melling warranty, I guess I should have been a little quicker working on this, it's one year, I missed that by about a month and a half.

 

We'll see if Clegg can help that's where I purchased the rebuild kit, fingers crossed.

 

If it's a replacement it's really something thats just going to go up for sale on eBay, so not the end of the world if I get nothing.

 

 

Edited by billrigsby
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Dug out the three original pumps I have, will go through them all and determine which to use.

514989194_153Threeoriginaloilpumpstogothrough.jpg.f7eb1586163e73511010efb7ecb33f74.jpg

 

All the pieces I found so far are from the Melling pump, they all line up, 

still need to filter the oil and inspect/clean the block.

1514738874_149Onetooth.jpg.7ecd5299670e9098edc307366f0af967.jpg

 

236225291_150Secondtooth.jpg.460ff3374981e41cbd9f0e2c8f3ce9c8.jpg

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

 

Received the four data tags ordered for the electrical system today,

look nice.

 

Generator

Generator.jpg.1ca3f9e147e09bdbcb131f007f393c9f.jpg

 

Starter

Starter.jpg.69a1cbd09c98061e7be495d132152ee8.jpg

 

Distributor

Distributor.jpg.90b15c6415131be1d974968d122fb646.jpg

 

Regulator

Regulator.jpg.833dce590e9b722029c019d172c579fc.jpg

 

 

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12 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

Received the four data tags ordered for the electrical system today,

look nice.

 

Guy out of Europe?

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17 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

Guy out of Europe?

 

No, Calif.

 

Willys Distributors

 

 

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10 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

Cool, I had mine done by a guy in POLAND!  

 

Yep. he did my ID Plate, also a good job.

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