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FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later


billrigsby

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On 10/10/2021 at 2:57 PM, ggdad1951 said:

I made brackets that where held on the outer corner headbolts, placed the engine and removed them and then torqued (as they are the last).

 

Well, I will have go that route, but want to test run before installation.

Since I have only torqued to the lowest spec, I'll be sure we are good,

install, torque to mid-range spec and then retorque after driving and break-in.

 

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Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

Inked20211014_115551_1600x1200_LI_900x1200.jpg.342ce2de568928757d934545a3a65ec2.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

Inked20211014_115551_1600x1200_LI_900x1200.jpg.342ce2de568928757d934545a3a65ec2.jpg

 

 

That's for later 50s flatheads. You need to plug it. 

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2 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

That's for later 50s flatheads. You need to plug it. 

 

I thought that might be the case, curious what it was used for though. The later engines had internal bypass if I remember correctly. Would that have been for the heater?

 

 

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2 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

Well, I will have go that route, but want to test run before installation.

Since I have only torqued to the lowest spec, I'll be sure we are good,

install, torque to mid-range spec and then retorque after driving and break-in.

 

That's how we've always done it except for the brackets. Just put the bolts through the chain and lower it in.

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Just now, billrigsby said:

 

I thought that might be the case, curious what it was used for though. The later engines had internal bypass if I remember correctly. Would that have been for the heater?

 

 

Yup apparently the later cars used that for the heater rather than the up top position. Possibly because of lower hood lines. 

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9 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

that lower heater hose port is a sign of the newer castings with modern sealed bearings...original pumps either had a flanged port on top for the bypass or a NPT port for a heater elbow.

 

Thanks, this one seems to be a 'one-size-fits-all' because it has all of the above. I've got her plugged up at the bottom though.

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On 10/14/2021 at 2:11 PM, billrigsby said:

 

Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

Inked20211014_115551_1600x1200_LI_900x1200.jpg.342ce2de568928757d934545a3a65ec2.jpg

 

 

That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..?  Just kidding.

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On 10/15/2021 at 3:44 PM, Bryan said:

That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..?  Just kidding.

 

Well I best just dump some ??? into that setup,

can not let that orifice go to waste.  ?

 

 

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Worked on the carburetor linkage today, since I am not using the carby that came on the engine

but using the correct one the linkage needed a little, and fortunately a little, work.

 

I am not a designer, well graphic designer-Yes, Mechanical-No,

do not have a 'machine shop', so we do what we can with what we got!

 

Mocked it up with scrap metal and then made the final missing link, think it will work OK.

Really just needed an extension arm to have all the original parts move the existing carby linkage.

 

576757770_35Linkageextension.jpg.57e1b4483678b5885c16aadde75a3c5a.jpg

 

773955697_36Linkageextension.jpg.b4a17bc58afb7d6df3f5c88f2b699ed6.jpg

 

848298125_37Linkageextension.jpg.3185cc7b8e27fc8ed52d8e3bea092e1c.jpg

 

1757932762_38Linkage.jpg.9f118c2d384a8735e5357343bd88f574.jpg

 

Still need to get it all permanently mounted with the correct hardware and pins.

Next I'll work on the choke linkage.

 

 

 

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Got the choke linkage done, need to find a cable connector for the carby end.

489911632_39Chokelinkage.jpg.3da60570fae0aece9f8837a9e09b6183.jpg

 

Also cleaned up and painted the old Carter fuel filter

626140322_45Carterfuelfiltercleanedandpainted.jpg.bb8b8c6065d0257541391a30b464d77b.jpg 

 

1548997241_44Carterfuelfiltercleanedandpainted.jpg.5fd02ae3112185f9e0db5d627e5aee8d.jpg

 

Had to open up the NAPA 3943 filter element to 7/16" so it would fit,

but there was plenty of material there.

239143187_46Carterfuelfilterelementinstalled.jpg.adbd393a7f0cacf1e1d18af6f1ce82fa.jpg

 

 

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3 hours ago, Fernando Mendes said:

Congratulations to your nice job.

 

Thanks!

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Made a fuel pump heat shield today, cutout the basic shape from sheet aluminum

1087088297_49Aluminumcutoutforfuelpumpheatshield.jpg.e39eb6498924c88655ed4afb1a3a8bf5.jpg

 

Bent to fit, painted with Rust-oleum High Heat Silver

44599276_50Hetshieldbenttofit.jpg.30cc15cc068eb06eefd75468c8bb1810.jpg

 

Nice fit

520517_51Heatshieldminstalled.jpg.327f25e67b0c8ad13463ddb5b74331b2.jpg

 

 

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Now I've ran into a problem,

since I am not using the carby that was on the truck,

but using what research says is the 'correct' one,

my air filter will not mount, have three, all the same mount ?

20211024_110916_1600x1200.jpg.e93c9c1094e0a97eb3ea9f3f871c7a94.jpg

 

This is what the top of the barrel needs to be to accept the stock air cleaner

20211024_110934_1600x1200.jpg.e5993ef062b365f2be13d5682e4fe306.jpg

 

This is my though to remedy this problem;

Take an old carby and cut the top mounting part of the barrel off (at the red dots)

20211024_111107_1600x1200.jpg.1a2e65110aa32b2093d2c24c417bed2b.jpg

 

Use an aluminum ring with a series of countersunk screws or rivets to secure the new top to the old barrel

 

Open to any other suggestions of course

 

 

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Yes, that was the obvious and dare I say expensive choice.

I was looking for a little something lighter on the pocketbook.

This day and age people seem to know what these parts are worth or

should I say these people seem to think these parts are gold plated.

I can only imagine what one will cost. I'll have a look around

but I've already got one completely restored painted with a decal on it

ready to go so I would prefer to go that route.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Decided to sacrifice a basket-case carby for the top air cleaner mounting flange

With a small file and little effort, it slide right inside the Stromberg's barrel.

Some pop-rivets and a dab of epoxy on each to seal the holes and good to go.

20211030_123822_1600x1200.jpg.34fc3f8f1acb72e74627c11bd6c0c87d.jpg

 

20211030_123834_1600x1200.jpg.da79838009c96321091410e9350cc98d.jpg

 

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Cleaning out the inside of one of the radiators and leak checking at the same time.

Starting with a Dawn Ultra Platinum dish washing soap and hot water for any oily residue.

I will follow that with CalciumLimeRust (CLR) and hot water for scale build up, then test the flow.

20211103_133954_1600x1200.jpg.187b045e97e0484a2f81b2370ed32e5b.jpg

 

20211103_134029_1600x1200.jpg.63b45a2ee90cc597706455350dbed2bf.jpg

 

Fortunately the soapy water did not come out as fast as it went in, seem there are no leaks,

we will see what an overnight soak revels.

I think it is the right size for the 1 ton, the parts book does not go into a lot of detail.

This one has a 2.75" core VS some the narrower 2.25" cores.

20211103_134109_1600x1200.jpg.3f48b0756b141505ce8cc8ae7c722c45.jpg

 

Not really sure what this tag is referencing, not on others I have?

20211103_134349_1600x1200.jpg.b698746fbe345fc268436aee7317b7f2.jpg

 

 

 

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No leaks whatsoever overnight, drained the soapy water,

found the obvious brown water and a hoard of pine seed husks, 

a rodent must have made the lower tank a stash house.

1345428703_3Drainingaftersoap.jpg.664f0f470172c0cb9562c83e2846d0a4.jpg

 

64688063_4Ahoardofoldpineseeds.jpg.834a3efef1c2d9e2f2128ec0b62b5f24.jpg

 

Filled the radiator with a 5:1 mixture of CLR and hot water,

continuously rotating it through the day,

1777146890_5SoakinginCLR.jpg.ae0b5cf96d4312d23bcc5fe23ecb4b4a.jpg

 

did a drain of that, more gunk, but little solids.

1331539205_6DrainingafterCLR.jpg.853183508abe00f2845b29efc38521e9.jpg

 

Got it running clear, with good flow.

2097907325_7Flowtest.jpg.de276237bfa1f9418c051369893a63f4.jpg

 

 

 

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I am still not sure if this has the original core or a re-core?

20211029_111942_1600x1200.jpg.8b54a81e2027d5677942f448ad302278.jpg

 

20211029_112005_1600x1200.jpg.c5eca80652cd24366fa1d5367da51ecd.jpg

 

 

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Installed the distributor/wires, not without an O-Crap moment,

could not align the rotor at 7 O'clock, only 5 and 10.

Thanks to a quick reply to my probably overly panicked question

from @Plymouthy Adams I was able to rectify that problem.

 

I thought we beat this check list to death, 1895424046_Untitled-1copy_320x194.jpg.8ccc7d4850b24e4b15e7916a957eb6ec.jpg

But that was missing, it is now edited.

 

 

20211104_184945_1600x1200.jpg.9834b125ebd59e6be2b8039c5993c56a.jpg

 

20211104_184920_1600x1200.jpg.f2de18bb9633bf63305a92356d2a9a33.jpg

 

 

Edited by billrigsby
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I did a test fitting of the engine storage/starting stand/cart last week 

20211030_101151_1600x1200.jpg.f658fcd3db67c976c67a80868017c57d.jpg

 

20211030_101206_1600x1200.jpg.fda600b22d331421b1577f025512da60.jpg

 

And it got completed today.

I think I am ready to get this thing off that wobbly, albeit 2 Ton engine stand.

20211029_163117_953x1200.jpg.5abad462a441680dc8944a8bc7ec3cdd.jpg

 

20211029_163139_1024x1200.jpg.4161db83a7ee75926b639b83f70b3fd4.jpg

 

 

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