billrigsby Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 Crankshaft is installed and spinning smoothly. Everything lubed up Coppercoat on the rear main seal Test spin after torqueing all cap bolts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 Well as some have said, "one step forward, two steps back", in my case, just more delays. Sick family, traveling, sick dog, big slice in finger, six stiches in forehead, could go on, but you get the picture. Back at it yesterday, got pistons, chain oiler and chain case plate installed Timing chain just installed, #1 at TDC, valves closed, marks lined up (almost)..... Should I be concerned about this 'minor' mis-match, sorry if it is a dumb question, first rebuild. Going to move on to something else until I get some feedback, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 They should line up...almost exactly when new. It looks a bit too far off to me. https://www.iskycams.com/cam-degreeing.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 Thanks, obviously not what I wanted to hear but thank you anyway. I'm not sure what if any adjustment would be available the crank timing gear is keyed and can only go on one way, and the cam gear, correct me if I'm wrong, the bolt holes are offset and it can only go on one way. I will double check that. I will also get a crankshaft bolt and find the 'dead nuts' center of both and rotate it all around a few times and then double check my work. I know the cam gear with the bolts in but not torqued has no rotational play and the timing chain also has little to no slack. This is an Engine Pro set that came with the kit from Clegg Engine. I know nothing about the brand good, bad or indifferent. I can also go to Napa and buy another complete set and give it a go and see if the results are any different. Like I said my first engine rebuild I managed to go 60+ years without having to build an engine other than motorcycle engines and they were all two strokes, cam we don't need no stinking cam. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 My 230 ci Mopar rebuild did the exact same -close, but not right on. I removed twice, checked for TDC on compression stroke both times no change. Shrugged my shoulders and moved ahead with build. My car runs very strong for a old flathead motor, no problems what so ever. Up to you. Talk to machine shop first about this if you had/have one? DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 26, 2021 Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 It probably will be fine as is. I know the factory MoPar OE parts are right on. Of course now very hard to find. The modern offshore replacement parts...precision/accurately made...naw... I'd myself would want to see how far off the cam is if it is at all. JMO.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) After double-checking the timing chain marks it was closer than I thought it was. I thought I would get it all buttoned up today. But unfortunately all of the parts I needed were full of grease, crud and rust. So today was spent cleaning, degreasing, derusting and primering parts. Also redid the virtually non-existent timing marks. Edited August 6, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 (edited) Got some more done today, the smoke from the west coast fires has been terrible here, prayers to all out that-a-way ? Got the harmonic balancer reassembled, timing chain cover and water tube installed Front engine mount installed, still need a new rubber mount, should be here next week Disassembled the oil pickup, cleaned and reassembled I think the routing of the oil pump tube is correct? I read some where, the crank would hit it if installed wrong but the crank does not hit it in either orientation. Cleaned up the oil pan, I had the original cleaned and primered but found out I need the front sump which was filthy, discovered some bad pitting Will need to de-rust and epoxy primer that area Edited August 13, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boody Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 Did you put your motor mount on before you put your bottom pulley on?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 3 minutes ago, Boody said: Did you put your motor mount on before you put your bottom pulley on?? No, with a little rotating and fanagling, it went on relatively easy. The checklist I have, which I have to admit I made, with a lot of input from everyone on this site and the books I'm looking at all state to do it after the pulley is on. The mount that I have currently installed was the original and when I twist and turn it I can see very little separation, but a little. It was a toss-up to order a newer, cheaply-made version or run with the better manufactured original. Changing this mount does not look like it would be a fun task to do with the engine in situ, so I opted to go with a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Boody said: Did you put your motor mount on before you put your bottom pulley on?? Correction, the mount I ordered was a NOS mount $29 vs $25 for a reproduction. Edited August 13, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 It might be a good idea to take a drift and flare the exposed end of the WDT to conform a little better to the opening. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 13 minutes ago, The Oil Soup said: It might be a good idea to take a drift and flare the exposed end of the WDT to conform a little better to the opening. Thanks, good catch and idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 At the suggestion of @The Oil SoupI flared out the WDT, then added the new front engine mount and torqued the manifold studs with gasket sealer and cleaned them up I never heard any opinions or objections to the routing of the oil tube, so it and the pickup are torqued down Cleaning up the rust on the oil pan and installed the end gaskets, wondering if the overhang gets trimmed down or is allowed to compress? Seems like a lot of excess. I have three manuals and several parts manuals, it is amazing the lack of photos and torque specs provided Opinions/suggestions here; 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 33 minutes ago, billrigsby said: Cleaning up the rust on the oil pan and installed the end gaskets, wondering if the overhang gets trimmed down or is allowed to compress? Seems like a lot of excess. Well I found the answer to my own question, reading the book the third time and it states 1/8" to 1/4" should be left, I've got a half an inch so I guess I'll trim it down to 1/4" or so. Need to hang it up for the day, getting too tired if I am going to read something three times to find the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 (edited) Gathering together all the ancillary engine components and coming up with more questions about correct parts. Ordered a new water pump from Rock Auto vs going the rebuild route. Any idea which of these thermostat housing is correct, have two of the short, the tall was on the original engine Oil filler tube, have three different ones, think the primered one was on the original engine Two different crankcase breather tubes, think the unpainted was on the original engine Any idea what the purpose of the long insert into the elbow on the top of the water pump, only one water pump had this setup, one had a straight tube, two others were plugged Thanks Edited August 22, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 My opinions in order of pics: tall one rightmost grey one straight one no idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 On 8/23/2021 at 4:50 AM, ggdad1951 said: My opinions in order of pics: tall one rightmost grey one straight one no idea Thanks, that was my thinking, but want some kind of conformation. That water tube is baffling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 The long elbow, almost looks like a "farmer fix" possibly the only thing laying around to fix a possible leak? They didn't bother cutting it down, just put it in and called it good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 1 minute ago, CO54 said: The long elbow, almost looks like a "farmer fix" possibly the only thing laying around to fix a possible leak? They didn't bother cutting it down, just put it in and called it good. My 51 had the same elbow installed. What I don't know is if it was original to the truck or came with the P15 engine that was installed in the truck when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 2 hours ago, bkahler said: My 51 had the same elbow installed. What I don't know is if it was original to the truck or came with the P15 engine that was installed in the truck when I bought it. FEF had is as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said: FEF had is as well I’ll jump in on the “my 51 has one” club ? but again, motor was replaced with a p15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2021 Based on everyone's input, I am satisfied that everything internally is A-OK and turning with the proper effort, so I have installed the oil pan, with copper coat on the gaskets Primed and installed the oil pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2021 (edited) On 8/24/2021 at 4:35 PM, billrigsby said: That water tube is baffling. Replacements also come with the long tube, there must be a reason for it, claims to be as original spec. It is the heater return fitting, the longer tube may direct the flow in the correct direction? Edited August 27, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazyK Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 (edited) Quote Thanks Edited September 3, 2021 by LazyK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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