MoparSasquatch Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 I am brand new to the forums with a fairly recent purchase of a '49 D29 Club Coupe! I recently started to take it apart as it hasn't run since '76 and want to at least get it running under its own power before I tackle the aesthetics of the vehicle. That being said, the brakes are definitely in need of servicing and the only source I am finding for a 10" x 2" drum brake that fits it is a seller on eBay for over $230 a pop. I need 4 of these things and was wondering if anyone on here potentially knew of another source? (If not, this sways me in the direciton of purchasing a disc conversion kit to alleviate at least some of the head ache of finding bonded shoes and the drums to go with it). I apologize if this has come up before, but, maybe I am not using the search properly! Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49WINDS Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 They don't list prices on their websites but maybe try giving Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (617-244-1118) or Mopar Mall (951-461-9005) a call. I'm sure you're already beginning to see the challenge of finding parts and not paying an arm and a leg for these old cars, but they sure are fun to bring back to life! You came to the right place to get a huge wealth of knowledge and experience though, I've been helped numerous times already and I'm sure you will too. Have fun fixing up your car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 5 minutes ago, 49WINDS said: They don't list prices on their websites but maybe try giving Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (617-244-1118) or Mopar Mall (951-461-9005) a call. I'm sure you're already beginning to see the challenge of finding parts and not paying an arm and a leg for these old cars, but they sure are fun to bring back to life! You came to the right place to get a huge wealth of knowledge and experience though, I've been helped numerous times already and I'm sure you will too. Have fun fixing up your car! dude that is such a beautiful car, keep it true if you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) Deleted Edited October 29, 2020 by Dan Hiebert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Yes restoring an old antique car can be expensive. So you suggested of installing disk brakes. I would advise that you look at the cost to also do this conversion before jumping into it. Consider the cost of a different rearend and possible shock relation connections Cost of a possible drive shaft change Cost of the diskbrake conversion parts Cost for a New Master cylinder to support the diskbrakes and the plumbing to convert Might want to look on ebay to see if you can find some Used drums or possibly just have your current drums cut Brake shoes with the lining also are not hard to find even on ebay So take some time to make contacts with the various antique car providers, get their catalogs and pricing and then wayout the options Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) issue resolved Edited October 29, 2020 by Sniper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Might want to investigate to see if a generic replacement brake drum could be adapted to your hub. One member took this approach and simply had the extra wide lip machined off. Even with the machine work for the hub and edge it was a pretty inexpensive solution for a new drum. Hopefully that member will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Before I'd spend $230 on a single 10 inch brake drum I'd spend $250 on a complete set of Chrysler Windsor 12 inch brakes...which I did. You will need the drums, backing plates and front spindles. Then you'll have an all Mopar brake system that will rival disc brakes (without the hassle) and stop pretty damn good. All the hydraulic pieces interchange with Plymouth so there's no engineering involved. I recommend you order your parts in two orders. I ordered mine from a well known supplier and they called me back to make sure I really wanted 12 inch shoes which I affirmed...then they sent me 10 inch shoes. Steve @ (559) 352-1407 is where I got my used parts and he may well have more and certainly will have 10 inch Plymouth brakes. Also before you change rear ends consider the stock rear axle can accommodate ratios from 4.3, 4.1, 3.9, 3.73, 3.54 to 3.36. For my money I just changed the 3rd member...easy-pezzy. If you hop up the engine to the point you are breaking the 8 1/4 axle (which would be a great achievement!) you can always upgrade to a Mopar 8 3/4 axle which is the same design (only larger) and highly respected among hot rodders. BTW on eBay right now is the tool you will need to remove the rear drums its called a New Britain #109 Hub Puller used for $80. I have one just like it and I think it's the best! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49WINDS Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 1 hour ago, michaelmarks697@yahoo.com said: dude that is such a beautiful car, keep it true if you can Thanks! I'm trying to keep it as original as possible. She was pretty well taken care of for most of her life but hasn't gotten much love the past 10-15 years. I'm enjoying trying to get everything roadworthy again and love all that I've learned here so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Mopar Sahsquash: On the above pictures of the drum you will note the little pin that is cast into the drum. This is very important to have. On the cars that use lug bolts the pin is used to mount or hand the rim off of this pin so you then can thread the lug bolts into the drum. On the dodges and plymouth's that use the lug nut stud combination the drum did not have the mounting pin because the rim could be hung on the drum via the lug studs. So if you do every purchase a five lug drum puller look to see if the puller has the 6th hole for the pin. This is the type of puller that I am explaining. I like this style because you get an totally even pull on the drum versus a three legged staggered pull on the drum when trying to remove it from the axle. Both styles will work to remove the drum. The pictures were taken from a power point presentation I did about the factory miller tools at the National Desoto convention several years ago. My five holed puller is not a miller tool but is of the same design and it has never failed to remove a stuck drum. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 This spring I replaced my rear axle with a 2000 Cherokee 8 1/4 and scarebird front disc brakes. There is a lot of information here for you to take in. I posted my rear brakes on the P15 1946 - 1948 and the Plymouth Owners Club Facebook pages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 (edited) On 10/27/2020 at 8:36 PM, Sniper said: Don't click on that link people, naughty site but http://www.amsnos.com/ works, seems something is broken in the quoted link. Thanks! I went back and edited my post to "deleted" to get rid of that auto-link, certainly doesn't belong here. Not my doing, I swear. You may want to delete my quote from your post to clean it up the rest of the way. You've got the address covered. Edited October 29, 2020 by Dan Hiebert 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Somebody grabbed up the New Britain puller on eBay I mentioned. Below is a photo of mine, just so you know what to look for. One thing I've noticed is that a puller has to have heft to work. I am not sure you need 5 lug bolts but you do need heft. There can be no springiness to it. When you tighten it, it should be solid. When I tighten mine by hand and strike the hammer bar things move, they don't just tighten up. I've used flimsy pullers and you just end up beating on them till you're worn out with no result. This puller sends a message! Oh and you need the Engineer's hammer too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I rented a puller like the one shown above 25 years ago. But, this summer I borrowed a slide hammer from O'Rielly Auto Parts to remove my rear drums and it worked. I just had to move the hammer a couple of times to get a even pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Impact loads, such as a slide hammer, are specifically frowned upon in the FSM as it imparts a shock load on the bearings that could brinell the races. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 4 hours ago, Sniper said: Impact loads, such as a slide hammer, are specifically frowned upon in the FSM as it imparts a shock load on the bearings that could brinell the races. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling Oh, although I have no idea why the "Flying Spaghetti Monster" would care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 On 10/27/2020 at 7:41 PM, P15-D24 said: Might want to investigate to see if a generic replacement brake drum could be adapted to your hub. One member took this approach and simply had the extra wide lip machined off. Even with the machine work for the hub and edge it was a pretty inexpensive solution for a new drum. Hopefully that member will chime in. additional information - 11" brake drum replacement additional information - 10" brake drum replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
58prostreet Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 I have all 4 drums from my '52 wayfarer. 10X2 1/4. If they will interchange I will let them go. Check your pm. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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