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brake tools


john portala

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Don't have an authentic brake tool but if you can't find one you can easily make a tool that will do the job....here is my version:

 

brake-tool-8.jpg.8bf4b982d88cf8b1c892b0a6d0bb7072.jpg

 

Before removing the wheel drum, one minor cam adjuster is tightened enough to create noticeable drag on the drum. The drum is then removed and the brake tool is threaded onto the axle.

 

The pointer is located over the portion of the shoe that contacted the drum which indicates the ID of the drum and adjusted for a snug fit on the shoe. If you want to get really fancy a 0.006" feeler gauge can be inserted between the pointer and shoe. I tried chalking the shoe to assist with indicating the high point during the initial adjustment but didn't find it to be of any advantage. Notice how these brand new shoes have not yet worn enough to have full contact with the drum. I'll readjust the brakes after some miles have accumulated on the shoes.

 

Once the pointer is adjusted to match the high point of the shoe that was adjusted against the drum, the tool is swept over each shoe so the major and minor cam adjustments can be set so each shoe is concentric with the drum. Hopefully this will remove some of the mystery of adjusting the brakes and provide visual confirmation of proper adjustment.

 

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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there isa an ammco 1750brake gage on ebay for $546 and it include free shipping and it is complete.

 

I did rent out mine until a club member broke one of my tools and did not tell me until it was returned and I found it on my inspection of the tool.

 

Rich Hartung

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Don't forget to arc each of the shoes to fit each drum. .006" toe and heel clearance.

If the lining radius does not match  the drum  ...soft brake pedal no matter if you do have the Miller or Ammco adjusting tools.

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Hopefully a local full service truck/brake shop can do this for you..

Brake and clutch in Seattle does it for our area.

I do my own with the proper machine.. Lucky me.

Search this site for ways to do it yourself by hand.

Arcing car brake linings was common... not so much anymore...

fixed anchor shoes require it for quick wear in of brake shoes and for a high hard pedal.

Or you can just drive the car and let the linings wear in and keep adjusting them up over a couple thousand miles. The pedal will keep getting better after you keep doing  the minor adjustment.

This leaving the anchor bolt arrows at the factory orientation..rear anchor arrows pointing to each other...front upper/lower pointing to the wheel cylinder.

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