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This doesn’t look right :-(


JSabah

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Some versions of those crank pulleys are quite lightweight. Mine was similar and sometime in the rebuild process it got bent. Yours looks like this. Some are also held together by rivets. Perhaps check this also. Straightened mine after removing and using a wooden block and hammer on a flat surface and in vice. Wasn't hard but showed how easy it was to bend also. So far so good for me but even over tightening the fan belt could recreate the problem.

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also is this a vibration dampener and they do go bad they can be rebuilt ooks as if the rubber s bad. is the bolt that holds the pulley to the crank lose try to tighen it to see if this might solve your issue

 

Rich 

Desoto1939@aol.com

Edited by desoto1939
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The 41 Plymouth I had developed a "ticking" sound that I found was coming from the crank pulley, wasn't wobbling as bad as yours but I decided to remove and replace it.........when removed I discovered that the crank hub to crank pulley rivets had worn and I couldn't find a replacement here in Oz anywhere........whilst down there I replaced the timing cover seal together with a speedie sleeve on the crank hub however I decided to weld the crank hub to the pulley as a replacement couldn't be found in oz......I used the stick welder to carefully weld short beads of the an identical size and length at each rivet to keep any extra weight at the same amount so as not to upset any balance if there was some..........once done, painted a nice shiney black and reinstalled there was no more ticking nor any wobbling and it appeared to fix the possible problem..............andyd    

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I have seen people put them on the hub and something is behind it and the hub and it does that.

 

1. Pull Radiator.

 

2. Remove the little bolts holding it to the hub.

 

3. Start Engine from dad cold for 30 seconds and see if face of hub is running true.

(you can bend some bailing wire and have it just on the face with a little bit of clearance. If the hub hits the wire, then the face is messed up and you need a new one)

 

4. Place pulley on and bolt down without balancer. when dead cold again do same as above. If not running true, it the wire will run and leave a mark. Take off and bend to true. Do this until it runs true. Then put on balancer. If that moves sent it out to be rebuilt or replace it.

 

James.

Edited by James_Douglas
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It does not look right. Heck of a wobble. I just did a timing chain cover seal on my 49 chrysler royal 251 engine a month ago. There are 3 main pieces. The hub, the vibration damper and the pulley. The hub can't wobble without super major engine issues. The vibration damper presses or pounds onto the hub in my case. Unless it is falling apart I dont think you would see that much wobble. The big nut was 1 and13/ 16 I believe but if loose and for some reason backing off the crankshaft, the pulley should still run true as there was no taper on the crankshaft end. Dont think that's your issue. The pulley was held onto the damper by 6 1/2 inch bolts. Tight fit and the 6 bolt pattern was slightly off center so that you could only position it one way and get all the bolts to attach.

 Pulleys dont just warp or bend  that bad. I think you have loose bolts that hold the pulley to the vibration damper. I'm not a expert in these engines but this is my guess based on what I did a month ago

 

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