Countryss Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 Currently have a 46 dodge that has been recently converted to 12v neg. The issue that is occurring was happening before and after conversion. Temp reaches 160 idles fine and around 20 to 25 min after driving it will shut at idle. Dont really see an issue turning it over after it shuts. If I keep giving it a little gas it will run at idle. Any thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 Small vacuum leak? Idle a little too low? Issue with the idle circuit in the carb? Fluid drive or manual trans might be involved as well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 It is a fluid drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted October 16, 2020 Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) 20 -25 mins later everything is fully warmed up. Idling is hotter even than driving down the road. Heat travels up. The exhaust manifold is very hot. Heat from it travels up to the intake manifold. Then into the carb base. Heats up the carburetor. Carb gets real warm, fuel vaporizes. Fuel level in bowl gets low. Car stalls.....Just a theory. What quality of fuel are you running? Any ethanol in it? Consider a phenolic spacer at carb base. I highly recommend non-ethanol fuel. Cures what ales ya 9 times out of 10. Consider a back up electric fuel pump with a sprung switch on the dash. So you can give it a shot as needed. Push fuel through that possible vapour lock at the fuel pump or fuel lines. They are all located near that dang hot exhaust manifold....Just a theory. Worth sniffing out. Edited October 16, 2020 by keithb7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted October 16, 2020 Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 I concur. Probably fuel percolating. Happens to me also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 Ok gonna order the phonelic spacer and extended bolts from the stromberg website and try that out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 16, 2020 Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 Is the base of the carb where it meets the manifold wet or stained, is the float set correctly? (actually a couple 32nds lower than factory seems to work better with today's gas) is your choke opening completely when up to temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 Gonna have to check tomorrow. Carb just got rebuilt and tested from a company in Cali. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Ordered the phonelic kit and extended manifold bolts. So while waiting for those parts to come in i started tinkering with some other stuff. I see the sqaure top relay is for the starter but what is the round one controlling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1949 Wraith Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 14 hours ago, Countryss said: Ordered the phonelic kit and extended manifold bolts. So while waiting for those parts to come in i started tinkering with some other stuff. I see the sqaure top relay is for the starter but what is the round one controlling? Does your car have a semi automatic transmission? If so maybe part of the shifting wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 The square topped one is probably the original 6V starter relay, the other is a 12V version with a resistor bypass terminal. With a larger pic, showing more of the wiring maybe we can figure out how it is all connected. Definitely not original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 Just converted car to 12v so that was in while car was 6v generator. I have fluid drive transmission Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 The D24 has the fluid coupling linked to a 3 speed trans. The M6 wasn’t offered until the 2nd series 49’s came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 34 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said: The D24 has.. the fluid coupling linked to a 3 speed trans. The M6 wasn’t offered until the 2nd series 49’s came out. 2 hours ago, Countryss said: Just converted car to 12v so that was in while car was 6v generator. I have fluid drive transmission I guess I don't understand the earlier question about the relays then if you did the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 I was asking what those parts served as. Also letting you know that car was converted to 12v neg so you have a background on the modifications Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 I've never seen a setup like that on any vehicle converted from 6v to 12v. If it is intended as part of converting the starting system to 12v, it should simply have replaced the 6v solenoid. If you have contact with whoever did the conversion they should know why they installed that, I'd hope so, anyway. I can't really tell what it's for without knowing how or what it's wired to. I can't even make an uneducated guess right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 55 minutes ago, Dan Hiebert said: I've never seen a setup like that on any vehicle converted from 6v to 12v. If it is intended as part of converting the starting system to 12v, it should simply have replaced the 6v solenoid. If you have contact with whoever did the conversion they should know why they installed that, I'd hope so, anyway. I can't really tell what it's for without knowing how or what it's wired to. I can't even make an uneducated guess right now. That is pretty much what I did when I converted. I used a Ford style 4 terminal 12v solenoid to completely replace the original 3 terminal 6v solenoid. the extra terminal was to bypass the ballast resistor in start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Could also be a continous duty solenoid, to keep load off ignition switch. Typically that style has an isolated coil,requiring power and ground to energize it. i would almost put money on that bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 A thud would be heard when you put key in run position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Anything is possible but without pics and/or diagrams of the wiring we are all just guessing. The old solenoid may be just serving as a terminal point for the cables for all we know from the only pics we have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 So I have gotten around to taking some pictures for you guys. As you can also see there is fuel seeping out from beneath carb. This can be replicated with engine off and by solely moving throttle. This is a stromberg bxvd-3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busycoupe Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 Your carb looks pretty clean. Did you have it rebuilt, or is it a recent replacement? I replaced the bxvd3 on my 48 Dodge a couple of years ago. The carb was clean and appeared to function OK so I bolted it on. Almost immediately it started leaking from the bottom like yours. I took it off to investigate, and found that there are two plugs on the bottom for axcess to jets inside the carb. Whoever cleaned and rebuilt the carb neglected to put gasket washers on the plugs. After replacing the washers it was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 First things to check if it were in my garage would be needle and seat valve and float lever. If there is that much gas on the outside, there is likely that much or more puddled in the intake manifold. So as it sits your car is constantly running rich. I would guess if it's been doing that for a while your spark plugs are fuel fouled. Todays fuel formulas are more prone to expand more from heat than old stuff so many have found a slightly lower, 2 or 3 32nds float level will address the problem assuming your needle valve is closing all the way. Could be as simple as the little clip the holds the float pivot in place is missing or not properly installed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryss Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 Yes the carb has recently been rebuilt and cleaned. Swapping out the plugs, installing a pressure regulator to get me down to about 3.5psi, and opening up carb to see if there is anything that needs to be adjusted sounds like my course of action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 on the wiring question: I'm the one that asked for pics, but still can't make out where the other end of any wire may be. Things that look 'suspicious': The green wire on the starter? Maybe used for a 12v resistor bypass when starting? If so, wrong place for that, as there will be voltage drop there when starting. Blue wires on relays, where to they go? Which relay is connected directly to the battery? Sorry I'm no help, just full of questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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