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1948 dodge rear hub removal


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Still trying to remove driver side rear wheel hub.  looking for any suggestions to remove hub.

I have a heavy duty wheel puller attached and a 4 pound hammer and rust buster.  First it took some effort to get the castle nut off as it and the washer were rusted.

Have been working with the puller and the hammer and applying rust buster where possible but the hub will not move.  Currently out of ideas and open to any ideas.

Ed

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Have you tried backing off on the brake shoes and then smacking the outside of the dr bum just enough to set off vibrations? Do NOT use brute force because they idea is to create vibrations to separate a brake shoe from a rusted drum. Can't remember what Mopar brakes look like now,but before you do this go to backing plate and remove/clip any spring hangers there might be there that keep the brake shoes in place,or  remove any nuts you might see that would be used to adjust the brakes. Then use the hammer to drive the studs back inside the drum.

 

If that doesn't work,all I can tell you is tighten your puller and then smack the brake drum all over,front and sides,with your BFH to set off vibrations to encourage things to move. Do it,and then go away and let it sit for a hour or two,and come back and do it again. If necessary,let it sit overnight and go back and do the tighten and smack routine until it eventually comes off.

 

Be VERY careful to not let it come off and "get ya" when it does. Put the axle nut back on the axle and tighten it down a few turns before you do ANY of this. When these tough ones finally come off,they seem to REALLY come off.

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Back off the puller and leave alone for a bit and repeat pull and release. Leave on tight over night. I had to do this for several days on a car frame with the rear end that  sat out side for some years. Finally one day it came off like nothing. Also sprayed with a rust buster when it was loosened. Also I did have a Old Heavy duty puller I was able to borrow, still took some heavy hitting and time.

 

Keep after it !

 

DJ

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I hope you did not take the nut off completely, if you did put it back on because when the hub pops loose it'll fly if the nut isn't there to stop it, you don't have to run it up snug just thread it on enough to keep the hub from flying off.  BTW, this is my 1000th post here, wee.

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Keep at it...........tighten, wack, tighten, wack......maybe loosen a bit, spray some WD40 etc, tighten, wack, tighten, leave tightened overnight ........the puller is TIGHT onto at least 3 of the bolts/studs?...........check they aren't come loose........maybe undo the puller and move around to at least the other 2 bolts/studs that were just "watching" and one of the 3 that was involved in the job and have at it again............tighten, wack, tighten, wack...........you'll get it off but always make sure that the centre nut is on ......it only needs clearance between the bottom of the nut and hub of 1-2 threads which will be enough once it comes loose but you do not want it flying off into a leg or something, once its loose you'll be fine................lol..............aren't tapered axles just so much FUN!............lol................andyd

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What everybody else said....center nut on, puller installed and under tension, then apply some heat.  I used a hand held torch with MAPP gas.  Surprised me how a little heat got things moving.

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If  you have one, a pneumatic hammer applied to the center of the hub, perpendicular to the axle, really helps that taper release.  Just move it around the entire circumference.  Retighten puller, repeat as often as needed.  Be prepared for the release, it will probably be a loud bang when the hub hits that nut you left on!

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If the puller is put on  crooked you loose half the pulling force.

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

If  you have one, a pneumatic hammer applied to the center of the hub, perpendicular to the axle, really helps that taper release.  Just move it around the entire circumference.  Retighten puller, repeat as often as needed.  Be prepared for the release, it will probably be a loud bang when the hub hits that nut you left on!

Never tried or even thought of that,but it sure sounds like a good idea!

 

Like with wimmins,it's all about the vibration.

Edited by knuckleharley
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Can we see your installed puller..?

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20 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Can we see your installed puller..?

HEY! Watch it,buddy! We don't allow that kind of smutty language around here! 😁

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Frank Elder's suggestion is how the mechanics at the dodge dealership I worked at during the mid 60s.popped the tapers.  They almost never used the puller. When you are worhing flat rate, pullers take too long.

Edited by greg g
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6 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

DISCLAIMER this is a last resort measure......

put the axle nut on loosely almost touching the drum and if you can drive the car around the yard or up and down your driveway at different angles trying to break the rust grip

 

That is exactly how I got the hubs off my 51, I don't even own a puller.  BUT! I also do not live in the rust belt.  So YMMV.

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1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

That is exactly how I got the hubs off my 51, I don't even own a puller.  BUT! I also do not live in the rust belt.  So YMMV.

Guys,I understand how and why that method works so well,but it doesn't work at all with cars that don't run or ones with no brakes.

Or ones with seized drums from rust.

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I am having the exact same issue with my 1938 Business Coupe.  I assume the same principle applies to a vehicle 10 years older?   Mine isn’t rusted though as the brakes were done about 10 years ago and have less than 500 miles on it since then.  However, I am doing a full frame off restoration, and want to get into the brakes to clean out any sand blasting sand that may have got in there.  The drum turns just fine, but won’t come off.  It’s so perplexing.  The info here has been helpful

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The drums will come off...just need the right puller..

.. be mean and strong...pop goes the weasel...off comes the drum! 😁

 

 

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You need to hit the dog bone harder using a 2-4 lb hammer.

Hit it hard...harder...harder..harder maybe 20 times or more...then again harder harder..

That little Dodge drum will come right off.

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Did you back off the minor adjusters?

You can always remove the nuts on the major adjusters, drive the bolts in so the shoes come off the major adjuster "shoulder" and the hub should pop right off. 

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I did back off the minor and major  adjustments.  the drum seemed free as I alternatively tightened all adjusters  and loosened them to very the  brake linings were free. 

I did try to remove the major adjustment nuts but they were frozen and moved with the bolt.  I have been putting rust buster on them and maybe I will give them another try as initially I thought that I could push the bolts back and help get the hub off.

Thanks.

will try tomorrow

Ed

 

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If the brakes are free and drum turns your good there .

You have the correct puller, I saw above you said a 4# hammer, thats correct.

I think you are fighting rust ... can see the rust in the photo.

Strange it appears the drum has been updated to studs and  nuts. So seems that the drum has been off before.

I think @ Dodgeb4ya  has best advice, hit it harder. Is a tapered axle and suppose to be tight.

 

It may help but I wont advise it, apply some heat to it to break the rust. Sounds to extreme to me, may cause more damage then worth.

No doubt it would cook the seals, possible damage to other parts? I wonder what others think?

 

Hit it again, what you got going on is way better then driving it with the axle nut loose. You only do that if you do not have correct tool, you have it.

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