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Old guy with a new car and introductions all around


KyMoonshine

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Okay I was weary of it for sure, bad thing is it's the oldest parts place in town where all the farmers etc have been buying all thier stuff for decades that's why I stopped by thinking the may have a brake light switch and some 6 volt bulbs (they didn't but ordered them for me) and the guy was in his 60s lol, I'll drop by O'Reilly tomorrow, I have a business account with them and Advance anyway, Thanks for the heads up 

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Can't speak for anyone else,but I LOVE seeing photos!

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2 hours ago, KyMoonshine said:

Not sure if you guys are interested in seeing more pictures of this car or not, but here is the trunk,this car is so solid 

20201009_181529.jpg

 

Love to see pictures! Some cars just survive well and your car looks like one of them. If your floors are the same as the trunk, you won the old car lottery!

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1 hour ago, RobertKB said:

 

Love to see pictures! Some cars just survive well and your car looks like one of them. If your floors are the same as the trunk, you won the old car lottery!

The entire car is dry, the trans inspection plate is really rusty but I found those for sale, there is a small rust hole (about 1 1/2 inch big) in drivers rear floorboard, no rust on body, rockers doors etc

 

 It spent its life in Arizona, so that may be why,  it would not look like this if it spent 70 years in Kentucky

Edited by KyMoonshine
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3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Careful there ... I have old photos of girlfriends I do  not want to see.

Old cars are cool

How do you know I don't already have the same photos?

Maybe even color filum?

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On 10/8/2020 at 2:29 PM, greg g said:

Tractor supply had some here a couple weeks ago.  Make sure you get motor oil not lubricating oil. True value and Ace have  non det in there lawnmower supplies.

So I just went back and re read this thread, today I bought Lubrication oil instead of motor oil...if only I had paid more attention to Greg lol

 

I'll be honest I have not been fond of red wheels on hotrod/classic cars, these are kind of growing on me but I am thinking about painting them black with the chrome trim rings, what do you guys think? 

120607910_646016349635921_7140475394346151585_o.jpg

Edited by KyMoonshine
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It is ultimately your choice...but since you asked.  I like contrasting colors on the wheels that compliment the car and type of tire you use, as opposed to conflicting colors that draw attention away from it.  I like red rims on gray cars (I'm sure you've perused that other thread about red wheels), I like the look of your car as it is now.  Black wheels with the trim rings would look nice on your car, (but to me that's just as overdone as red rims), that would be a sharp, complimentary contrast.  A darker shade of gray than the car is wouldn't be quite as sharp and would still look nice.  One thing I keep in mind for the rims is touching them up down the road, because they will get beat up quicker than the rest of the car, and I paint the balance weights, too.  So I use colors readily available in rattle-cans, although the manufacturers sometimes discontinue a color.  I've gone through three slightly different hues of red over the years on our D24 because of that.  Powder coating is of course more durable, but that still gets beat up if you drive the car regularly.     

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A link to pretty good summary what many folks here are running for engine oil. I add some STP too for the heck of it. 

 

I host a YT Channel. Videos covering many technical topics on these old Mopars. Just search  "Keith Barron Mopar". They'll come up. I'm no master mechanic. However when I learn and grasp something new, I do like to post it for future new Mopar owners to learn from.

 

I cleaned out both my old engines. I pulled the oil pan. Degreased the valve area. The oil filter housing too. I've been running modern detergent oil since. No issues. I like a little heavier oil for the hot summers,  when the car gets used most. My car is not insured for driving all winter. I went with a 15W40 engine oil.

 

There is no need for a 6V brake switch. They are common little pressure switches. Pipe thread if I recall. Just match one up. Normally open. When pressure is applied the switch closes.  Easy change, common, generic part at most any half decent auto parts store.  A continuity tester goes a long way here. It won't hurt to run all new wires to the rear end, if they are questionable. A fun easy project. 

 

The 6V system works just fine when it it well maintained. For these old 7:1 flatheads, 6V is totally adequate. My engines start like a dream. Modern convenience? A $20 6V to 12V 10 amp converter allowed me to install an iphone USB charger. That's pretty modern...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by keithb7
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2 hours ago, keithb7 said:

A link to pretty good summary what many folks here are running for engine oil. I add some STP too for the heck of it. 

 

I host a YT Channel. Videos covering many technical topics on these old Mopars. Just search  "Keith Barron Mopar". They'll come up. I'm no master mechanic. However when I learn and grasp something new, I do like to post it for future new Mopar owners to learn from.

 

I cleaned out both my old engines. I pulled the oil pan. Degreased the valve area. The oil filter housing too. I've been running modern detergent oil since. No issues. I like a little heavier oil for the hot summers,  when the car gets used most. My car is not insured for driving all winter. I went with a 15W40 engine oil.

 

There is no need for a 6V brake switch. They are common little pressure switches. Pipe thread if I recall. Just match one up. Normally open. When pressure is applied the switch closes.  Easy change, common, generic part at most any half decent auto parts store.  A continuity tester goes a long way here. It won't hurt to run all new wires to the rear end, if they are questionable. A fun easy project. 

 

The 6V system works just fine when it it well maintained. For these old 7:1 flatheads, 6V is totally adequate. My engines start like a dream. Modern convenience? A $20 6V to 12V 10 amp converter allowed me to install an iphone USB charger. That's pretty modern...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Keith, thanks, I will definitely check out your YouTube channel and subscribe

 

After I get this car sorted and make sure its going to run out well I plan to pull the pan and see if it has already been cleaned up or clean it all and run a modern oil

 

Yeah I bought a brake light switch for a 1950 something Ford at local shop and it works fine, I also ran new wire to the switch and from the switch to the lights and grounded the housings individually to the trunk, I received some 6-volt non polarity LED bulbs in the mail today but if they don't work I bought a dozen 6-volt dual element bulbs at Napa for $.63 each

 

I am used to 6-volt negative ground systems on old Volkswagens and they work pretty well, but its so easy and cheap to convert the Volkswagens over most people already have, This one starts well just bump the key, it does crank a little slow when it gets hot but it has started so far. I have been wondering about a converter to un GPS but did not know if it would work with the positive ground system

 

I see you are in Canada, thats where I usually am this time of year, I spend a lot of time in Nova Scotia and work in Newfoundland a few months each year, but this year Covid has me home and off work since March :(

Edited by KyMoonshine
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1 hour ago, KyMoonshine said:

This one starts well just bump the key, it does crank a little slow when it gets hot but it has started so far.

 

For reliable starting even hot be sure you have 6v battery cables installed. They are much heavier than 12v cables because the current demand is greater. Here is what they look like:

 

battery-cables.jpg.a6d038db0ab055e49f8936293293988a.jpg

 

Another upgrade that removes aggravation and adds reliability is an alternator. They are available for 6v in either positive or negative ground.

 

Battery Cables

 

Alternators

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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2 hours ago, greg g said:

I run the GPS with a jumper pack. Newer packs are small and a lot easier to find a place for.

OK,I am assuming a "jumper pack" isn't a bunch of out of control teens,so what is it,how is it used,and does it eat very much?

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4 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

For reliable starting even hot be sure you have 6v battery cables installed. They are much heavier than 12v cables because the current demand is greater. Here is what they look like:

 

battery-cables.jpg.a6d038db0ab055e49f8936293293988a.jpg

 

Another upgrade that removes aggravation and adds reliability is an alternator. They are available for 6v in either positive or negative ground.

 

Battery Cables

 

Alternators

Thanks for the info, it does have the right battery cables, the guy I bought it from has a few 6 volt cars and he put new ones on it.

 

I did manage to get new 6 volt LEDS working on tail and brake lights, now to tackle front marker and turns

Edited by KyMoonshine
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1 hour ago, KyMoonshine said:

I have a Jackery Explorer that I use for events so I'll just use it as it will last for days

Does anybody make a jump battery that is switchable between 6 volts and 12 volts?

 

I'm cheap,and if I buy one,I want it to work with both my antiques and my modern stuff.

Edited by knuckleharley
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25 minutes ago, greg g said:

Don't think any are switchable any more.  Make your own with an optima 6v, a battery tender  and some kind of carry bag

That would require me to buy another expensive 6 volt battery that I would almost never use. I can make my own at home 6 volt battery charger using a used 6 volt generator,but it's not very mobile.

 

I wouldn't  mind buying a switchable 6v-12v jump starter with USB ports,though.

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My 10A 6V-12V converter works no problem with my car’s positive ground system.  
 

Another great thing about these old flatheads with a standard tranny...They are so easy to jump start! I’ll do it just for fun at any easy opportunity.  Roll away down a decline. Twist the key on. 2nd gear.  Clutch out. The engine starts so fast and quiet! 
 

A 12V booster pack is easily used safely to start an engine with a 6V system if needed. If you know the proper procedure follow.  I don’t really have a need  for a 6V booster pack for convenient engine starting. 

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3 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

My 10A 6V-12V converter works no problem with my car’s positive ground system.  
 

  

Can you give me the name and model number?

Thanks!

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