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Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!


49WINDS

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Hey I might have a decent side gig going if enough people want that done lol! Plus I know I can only get better with doing it each time since I usually learn how to fix things by doing it the wrong way first.

 

I too just want to have it for parking, especially because it's a fluid-drive and nothing else will hold it in place! My car also has the flashing light feature tied to one of the map lights, but it was unhooked when I got the car and it's still far down on the list of items to fix. All in due time I suppose.

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On a tangent I guess, but anybody have a source for the bonding adhesive used on brakes?  the only sources I see are for industrial sized purchases, most from China.   On tractors, with similar brakes, I've used epoxy or contact cement.  They work fine for that.  And would probably be fine on our parking brakes IF, one never forgot to release and the adjustment was such that they never drag and get hot.  Neither type will handle high temps. 

 

It's sure easier than rivets.   I spread the epoxy, install the lining and use an old drum and vise grips to clamp it in place until the epoxy sets.

Edited by kencombs
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12 hours ago, TodFitch said:

You can get a kit that includes the counter sink drill, rivet set punch and anvil, etc. from most Model A and Model T Ford suppliers. Pretty cheap and it does make the job easier.

That's good to know, kind of wish I had looked into that before hand but I'm fairly confident my work will hold up for now. If I ever need to re-line it again I'll definitely get that kit. Thanks!

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3 hours ago, kencombs said:

On a tangent I guess, but anybody have a source for the bonding adhesive used on brakes?  the only sources I see are for industrial sized purchases, most from China.   On tractors, with similar brakes, I've used epoxy or contact cement.  They work fine for that.  And would probably be fine on our parking brakes IF, one never forgot to release and the adjustment was such that they never drag and get hot.  Neither type will handle high temps. 

 

It's sure easier than rivets.   I spread the epoxy, install the lining and use an old drum and vise grips to clamp it in place until the epoxy sets.

I agree that a good epoxy would work good for the purpose of that e-brake, as you say, provided you don't forget to release it.  But even then, if the bond broke away, at that point it could be redone without any issues in most cases I would think.  The lining might wiggle it's way backwards but it would probably get hungup on the clamping aparatus before it made it to the driveshaft.

I'd love to get ahold of that professional lining glue as well.  My parts car had a complete set of shoes with hardly any wear on them at all.  But for some reason one of the linings came off during disassembly.  However I think I read somewhere that there is a heating process during bonding, but I might be wrong about that.

Sorry to drift off topic a bit there 49winds

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I know when we use to reline the brake shoes on the overhead crane at the cement plant I worked at we had to bake the shoes once they were glued.  Someone once forgot to do that with the expected results and we were to only rivet them from then on.  those brakes got a workout, about every month we had to redo them. 

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4 hours ago, Sniper said:

I know when we use to reline the brake shoes on the overhead crane at the cement plant I worked at we had to bake the shoes once they were glued.  Someone once forgot to do that with the expected results and we were to only rivet them from then on.  those brakes got a workout, about every month we had to redo them. 

What kind of adhesive was used, that would be interesting to know.

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On 11/15/2020 at 10:04 PM, Sniper said:

Of course there are times when I am driving and the car is sluggish then the smell of burning brake hits my nose and I realize, oops.  I really need a red light for the parking brake.

LOL I thought I was the only one that did that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled the car out today to test the brake and she holds like a champ! Also had to finish messing with replacing the u-joints which I thankfully found help on how to do from another post here. I'll put some pictures into that post as well.

20201126_141244.jpg

20201126_141326.jpg

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The band is fairly easy to replace by itself but the hard part is finding the correct one and for a decent price. Andy Bernbaum's has them for pretty cheap but the lining was way too thick and would not work for me. The next cheapest I found was from mopar mall and it was just over $100. I figured I'd just try to re-line my own and if it didn't work then at least I wouldn't be out too much money. Is your drum still in good shape or did you wear it down to the rivets as mine was?

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