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Starting or Redirecting my Engine Build


mlozier76

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This year has been hell on everybody, and it hasn't been any better for the car scene either, at least not in my neck of the woods.  I pulled my 230 in January and sent it to the machine shop with the hopes of having it ready for early to mid car show season.  The season  now over, not that it really existed this year, and they still haven't torn into it.  My goal was to build a 50's or 60's hop rod out of it.  I have custom speed parts from Shanafelt (dual intake with Holley 94s) and Phillips Performance (exhaust headers). My intentions were to have the head decked, engine tolerances checked with new bearings and a re-ring,  and the cam reground to help the engine breathe a little better.  The engine was running quite well, with about 80k on the clock (most likely correct as it was kept in a barn from 69 until i purchased and put it back on the road).  I'm now a little torn as to the avenue I want to go with the car and the engine, as I also have a 69 LA block 318 that I could use and overdrive transmission .  I have a passion for cars that leaves me with too many projects and even more dreams, I'm sure I'm not alone in this, LOL. I'm tempted to shelf the 230 because of the "lack of power" and hold on to it for a mid 30s Mopar or Truck that I can have the fenders off and showcase the goodies, but I also would like to keep the car "original" with hop up parts.  We (my club and I), do long distance cruises yearly, and except for the car catching on fire for a blown tire that broke my fuel filler neck, the car does quite well.  It has its problems, but I really do love the sound of the inline 6.  I've been holding on to the 318 and a 518 (I think) transmission for the 49 Chrysler New Yorker project that I intend to go 60s custom on (chopped roof, sleek exterior, funky-ish flake job), but I also have a friend offering up a 440 and transmission for that project.  Again, too many projects.  What would you guys rather see at a show, a vintage hot rod 6 or a run of the mill V8 Custom?  Maybe I just answered it in the question, LOL.  I've been depressed and not turning wrench enough this year, evidently.  Get out and enjoy your rigs.

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Don't be discouraged.  Even if you do one small thing a day it's a victory.  I'd like to see any kind of car you'd post!

I'd get on the machine shop's *ss and make them give you a completion date or you'll be on their back burner indefinitely.

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I'm planning to pick up the 230 tomorrow if he hasn't started in on it.  I tore down the 318 this past Saturday, and intend to take it to a different shop to check tolerances.  I'll break down the 230 and try again.  

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I am all for "period correct hot rods".

A Shanafelt Manifold is very special (rare and pricey) and would be as good a reason to retain a 230 as I can think of by itself.

COVID has slowed down many projects this year. I dropped off a 265 back in October and got it back the beginning of this month!

I sent a camshaft in to be reground in November and got it back last week because nothing had been done.

 

To feed your enthusiasm for a "period correct hot rod" let me tell you of my project.

A 1952 Suburban with a Chrysler Industrial 265 cid (25 inch engine) dual Bendix-Stromberg model WW carburetors, HEI ignition and cast iron headers from Langdons. Overdrive Plymouth transmission with 1940 2nd gear. 3.54 final drive ratio. 12 inch brakes from a 1950 Chrysler Windsor.

 

I came very close to buying a Shanafelt Manifold here's a photo of it. At the time I failed to realize its true value and it got away. I bid twice what I would pay for an Edmunds and it wasn't enough! Three or four times might have bought it!

s-l1600.jpg

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>>I sent a camshaft in to be reground in November and got it back last week because nothing had been done. <<

 

Try Delta Cams  https://www.deltacam.com/

 

I bought cams for two different obsolete tractors from them,and when I ordered,they had them in stock. Bought rebuild cams and tappes from them for a lot less than the used stuff was selling for on ebbay.

They even grind custom cams to your specs if you want more torque (who doesn't?) or hp.

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I vote for the hopped up 6.....I was building a 230 a few years ago before I sold the 41 Coupe, ........I'd collected an Edgy finned head, Offy intake, had the exhaust manifolds split, had a 1/2 race cam ground, had new oil pump, timing chain & gears, lifters, guides, valves & pistons and was getting ready to take the lot to a shop to have them re bore & grind the crank..............then sold everything...............sometimes we do things that don't make sense..........I vote for the 6......I've got a 318 Poly in my 1940 Dodge and as its a Poly I do get some curious looks but if I ever do an engine again it'll be a 6......have attached a pic of the engine mooked up in the stand.........regards from Oz.........andyd  

IMG_1386.JPG

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6 hours ago, Loren said:

I am all for "period correct hot rods".

A Shanafelt Manifold is very special (rare and pricey) and would be as good a reason to retain a 230 as I can think of by itself.

COVID has slowed down many projects this year. I dropped off a 265 back in October and got it back the beginning of this month!

I sent a camshaft in to be reground in November and got it back last week because nothing had been done.

 

To feed your enthusiasm for a "period correct hot rod" let me tell you of my project.

A 1952 Suburban with a Chrysler Industrial 265 cid (25 inch engine) dual Bendix-Stromberg model WW carburetors, HEI ignition and cast iron headers from Langdons. Overdrive Plymouth transmission with 1940 2nd gear. 3.54 final drive ratio. 12 inch brakes from a 1950 Chrysler Windsor.

 

I came very close to buying a Shanafelt Manifold here's a photo of it. At the time I failed to realize its true value and it got away. I bid twice what I would pay for an Edmunds and it wasn't enough! Three or four times might have bought it!

s-l1600.jpg

That manifold is a little different than mine.  Mine does not have the ports between the carb flanges.  Is that for coolant?  For better atomization?

20200923_091445.jpg

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I dropped the 318 off at the local Napa Machine Shop today and went over to the other machine shop to check on my flathead.  It was sitting in the same spot, untouched.  I backed in and took it to our "Shop".  I'll break it down, hopefully later this week and get it checked and decked.  I spent a long time paying myself out of debt so I could be to where I could properly begin my hobby.  I just miss having the old girl on the road.  I do plan to reinvigorate the flathead and put it back into the 48 Coupe.  The 318 is going to find a new home in either my 49 Chysler (still has the Straight 8, I've gotta try to get running) or 55 Studebaker (I know, I know, thats verboten!). 

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I've bought manifolds on eBay without being really sure if they'd fit the Chrysler. (They usually don't, so I have a couple of extra Plymouth Manifolds)

But that's what you have to do to get what you want. However, if that Shanafelt had been a Plymouth, I would have built an engine around it.

Those Ford 94 carburetors are an excellent choice! They flow more air than a 97 and are quite a bit cheaper. (My Dad called them Chandler-Groves)

I think what you are seeing in my photograph are the bolt holes for the exhaust manifold.

 

Every time I think of Studebakers I remember the pair of Hawks that used to run at Saugus Stadium in the sportsman class. They of course were re-powered with Chevrolet V8s (They could do that because the last years of production had Chevy engines). Somebody spent a ton of money to make them competitive and they were real crowd pleasers! As much as I dislike Chevrolets and the concept of stuffing them in everything with four wheels, I'd approve of that swap. But only because the factory did it. Besides a Studebaker V8 was the same displacement of a small block Ford (289cid) with the size and weight of a Cadillac and the gas mileage to go with it.

 

All the Mopar 49s were great looking cars! Straight 8 engines are kind of interesting as you don't see them that often anymore. Trading a high torque low revving Straight 8 for a V8 might work I don't know I am not that good of an engineer. I am pretty sure souping up a straight 8 would be expensive, but fun.

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I understand the Chrysler straight eights are a little delicate and although different would probably be expensive to do in addition to parts being harder to find.  The extra length can also be an issue although I am sure not an insurmountable one.One thing about going with a period Mopar Rod is the fact that it would be unique.  Unlike the standard everybody has one small block Chevy powered whatever a fodder big flathead will draw attention from anyone who has any idea about old cars.  I remember several yeats ago at a show where a guy had a low rider setup on a late 40’s Plymouth but it had the original flathead in it. Almost everyone who went by stopped to look at the hot rod six.

Edited by plymouthcranbrook
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  • 4 months later...

I spent some time last night removing my cam.  I had to borrow an air powered spring compressor from work, but it worked great.  I'm sending the cam out with a friend this weekend hopefully to get Earl to regrind it and moving the block to a machine shop next weekend when I am off work to start checking and decking.  I've been too relaxed on my timeline, but need to get something moving.  My friends have been pushing a bit to get a different powerplant (a 372 HP Challenger motor) that was found, and though tempting, is not the way I wanted to head with this project car.  The Kustom Chrysler....very tempting.

cam out.jpg

engine.jpg

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I gave my chosen parts supplier my VISA number on Jan 1. As of yesterday my engine rebuild parts have still not shipped. I asked why. They are still trying to locate connecting rod bearings.  I immediately did some research and found some within 15 mins, on E-bay. I found .0001" oversize. My crank is in decent condition. I will polish it 0.001" and use those bearings. Should be great!

 

I wish they told me a month ago my entire order was held up due to the con rod bearings.

Why do all these businesses like Eggy, Vintage Power Wagons and others, advertise parts and prices for items they can't supply?  I have not yet taken my block to the machine shop. I won't until I have all my parts in-hand ready to go. This winter engine project began in late Oct 2020 when I pulled the head. I did not expect to be starting engine re-assembly in mid to late April 2021.

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24 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I wish they told me a month ago my entire order was held up due to the con rod bearings.

Why do all these businesses like Eggy, Vintage Power Wagons and others, advertise parts and prices for items they can't supply?  I have not yet taken my block to the machine shop. I won't until I have all my parts in-hand ready to go. This winter engine project began in late Oct 2020 when I pulled the head. I did not expect to be starting engine re-assembly in mid to late April 2021.

 

Edited by mlozier76
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I feel ya.  April is the timeline on the cam for me, which is still early enough for a season this year, but I've gotta stay on task for the body projects.  Last year put me in a cloudy state, complacent.  I'm looking forward to seeing things take form.  

  I work in a parts and shop environment, on the heavy truck side of things, and last years events are still being felt.  The ability to find parts for vehicles less than ten years old is hindered by this global shutdown, and the "essential vs non-essential" still.  Hopefully we get back to having things available more readily soon.  I've had to resort to using the web to locate parts on more than one occasion to keep a customer moving because some country didn't consider engine parts essential to export.

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Talking cams...

 

One thing people should do is to measure the rear of the cam and the hole in the block. MANY of the cams and the holes are worn. There is not a bearing in the rear. So the cam gets ground and the rear of the cam gets ground and now you have even more clearance.  The cam can move when you adjust the lifters on number 6...

 

The other issue is the oil. That gallery can have a pressure drop as the oil makes its way past the rear of the cam. In fact back in the day there was a restriction kit to help with that.

 

So, on my blocks I measure that hole and the finished cam. If it is not at the low side of the specification for clearance, I have the shop bore it out and press in a steel bushing and then line hone it to size.

 

It is the little things....

 

James

 

PS. The other option is to measure the hole and then have the cam bearing surface industrial hard chromed and turned down to the correct size to fit...

 

 

Edited by James_Douglas
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