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Plug in Block question


billrigsby

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Getting the T306 block ready to be cleaned and magnafluxed,

got all the freeze plugs out, have one threaded plug that will not budge.

Another like it on the front of the block (have not tried that one, still soaking)

 

Wondering if this is a standard plug, will need to drill it out. Two other blocks have one and I may be able to salvage one of them?

 

Also got a snapped bolt in the rear main seal to drill out, then I think I am good.

 

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Thanks, nice to know it is standard pipe thread,

drill and easy-(hopefully)-out.  ?

 

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On 9/11/2020 at 11:10 AM, wayfarer said:

...buy a proper square drive socket for pipe plugs.  Using 'easy-outs' is rarely a good idea on a well seated plug as they increase the hoop tension and make the plug even harder to turn. 

Sunex 310Pc Soc 5/16 3/8D Imp Pipe Plg 4Pt Male Blk

Sunex 310pc on bay...................

 

Actually that is what I used but mine is half-inch drive, I had it in my impact screwdriver the kind you hold with your hand and hit with a hammer and it's supposed to jar it loose, well one of them it just rounded out the second one it just started cracking because it was above grade so to speak.

 

I drilled them out to about as much as I felt comfortable, 1/2 inch, then used an easy out, just barely tapped it in so it didn't spread too much and got both of them out with the threads unscathed.

 

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Hot tanking and magnafluxing next Friday, and I'm going to leave the broken rear main seal bolt for the machine shop, I tried but I can't get it, don't want to bung it up to much.

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Is the main seal bolt broken flush or is there a nub sticking up?   If there is a nub, even small, then place a washer over it and make a generous plug weld to the nub. When is cools a bit then weld a large nut to the washer. The two heat cycles most often loosen up frozen bolts and you will also have a nut to put a box end wrench on.

I have also had success with broken bolts that are slightly below the surface but it will leave scorch marks.

Edited by wayfarer
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I've had good luck with the washer/plug weld method also and most of the time don't weld a nut to the washer.  Most of the time they will come loose with a  good pair of slip joint pliers.  They give me a better feel of how much and how easily the broken bolt/stud is moving and when I need to reverse direction.  Using a smaller washer and giving it a bit of concave  will get you a little better access and weld to those broken bolts that are slightly below the surface.  If you use washers that don't have that shiny plating, they'll also weld better.

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