Hghspd50 Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 just wondering if anyone has a good write up on going from 6 volt negative to positive ground? I have a 53 windsor and po had a big stereo system and therefore converted to 12v. Upon selling the car he switched it back to 6v with negative ground I'm guessing so he could say it was original. I want to convert it back to the positibe ground and don't want to blow anything up. Lol 2nd question since po ran a 12v system is this why there are no wires running to the solenoid or governor on my transmission? I notices this when I went to check trans fluid level. Not happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 prior to converting back to 6v positive ground the first thing that you need to have in your hand is the shop manual for your car and also the service manual and also parts manual for your car. In the service manual there is a wiring diagram and this will direct you to how the car was originally wired when it came off the assembly line. It will take some time to look over the car. If you want to change the wires I would suggest that all wires be at least 14 gage and higher up to 12 gage and they battery cables should be of 6v size or either 1 or 00 size cable and not the 12v cables. The 6 v battery cable require bigger battery cable to carry the correct amount of voltage to start the car especially when the engine is hot. I know more guys will chime in so listen to their input also. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Hey there Desoto 1939 thanks for the input. Manuals are on order just wanted to see if someone had done this and did a write up to get a start on things. Sure you know how it is when your excited to start something. Going to try and add some pic's if I can get them small enough. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Some pics of engime bay. Please let me know if you see anything off. Oops guess 1 is all u get. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Looks like it’s had the MIdas touch... ? 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 There should be a box on the air cleaner support that has a circuit breaker for the trans. Ynz wiring has a harness for the trans. Not sure where to find the circuit breaker box though. The support is missing also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Sounds good thanks for the tip. Gives me something to look for. Keep it coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Have you been able to drive the car yet? I’m curious how the trans works without wiring. Hydraulic pressure will allow it to up shift but it won’t automatically downshift. I can’t tell if you have the correct carb either. I’m not sure what is correct for your car. Hopefully another member can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 Hi Doug an Deb no haven't driven it yet just starts so far once I saw the missing wires I didn't want.to take a chance on breaking something. Definitely think the carb is not factory since its a Holly. Think I saw on one of the post original was Ball and Ball. Here's another pic of engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 A Holley is definitely not original. Not sure how the po ever drove it. With the correct carb and all the wiring attached you’ll enjoy driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepic56 Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 How about the gas pump heat shield below the exhaust manifold?? is it really necassery?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 The shield is factory. I’ve always kept it on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 Ya i have.no idea how the po would have driven it unless there was someway to bypass the interrupt solenoid and governor which I don't know of. Guess I'll be looking for another carb as well. I know the original was ball and ball I wonder if there a crossover carb that works from another manufacturer if i don't find the oem carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 For the trans to work properly the correct carb is a must. It has a dashpot to keep the engine from stalling while stopped with the clutch engaged and a kick down switch for downshifting when necessary. I’m not sure what carb is correct for your Windsor but I’m sure members of the forum can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 OK ya thats what I figured as well. The orig was a Ball and Ball E91A. So hoping to find that or a good crossover like Carter or something like that. Been talking to Shawn with Y and Z wiring for the wiring harness. Gotta love putting together new toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Anyone work with United Automotive in NH. They carry a lot of the classic carburetors so hopefully they can help me find the correct version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Haven’t worked with them. Don’t be surprised at the price of a reman carb. They’re not cheap, however once done it will work properly and you won’t have to do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Ya after seeing some of the prices for parts and so on im really surprised how cheaply you can sometimes pickup these cars. I know after spending all I will on this project I won't be selling it for 3500 to 5k not that I'd ever want to sale anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wes Flippen Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Stromberg made a carb fro the M6 transmission as well. I believe the number is BXVD-3, (or close to that) I bought a Stromberg for my 50 Coronet with the M5 transmission, and I think the number was BXVD(without the extra number) Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Oh great. Thanks for the.info ya I've heard of them bit.didnt know they had one for the m6. I'll have to look into it. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 Stromberg bxves on my 52 Coronet with m6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hghspd50 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 Oh thanks and is that the model number. If not could you write it down next time you get a chance. Ibe been checking aroumd local to no eval. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 You might talk to Jon at the Carburetor shop. I don't think there is much about carburetors he doesn't know. http://thecarburetorshop.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 BXVES is the model. I’m pretty sure Chrysler used a Carter carb though I don’t know what model. Besides the carb I believe you also need the circuit breaker block that mounts to the air cleaner bracket. I may be totally wrong about this. I have a 52 coronet and it may have a different setup. Hopefully someone who has a 53 Windsor can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 You can probably rig a manual kickdown switch.It is my understanding that the M 6 upshifts by internal pressure, and downshifts electrically is the solenoid. This is triggered by the kickdown switch on the carb for on demand downshifting like passing gear, or by the govérnor when it senses rpm drop as in when you come to a stop.in the 50s there was an after market switch that replaced the shift knob. It was a micro switch wired in a way to allow the driver to initiate the downshift with out the need to stomp on the gas pedal. So no adrenaline producing rush of acceleration need accompany the downshift... I currently have a push pull switch mounted to the signal light switch mount that I use to operate my over drive. In the semi auto a similar switch could power the solenoid to effect a downshift in lace of the carb kickdown. One of the other circuits connected to the carb linkages is a coil inturupter which momentarily create slack in the driveline needed for the gears within the box to slide and disengage as the solenoid pulls them to the opposite position. Letting up on the gas and switching on the solenoid would accomplish the downshift, but you would need to switch it off to accommodate the next upshift. The shift rite switch mentioned was a momentary set up so it so the solenoid was released after the down shift. Basically the switch is a stand in for the governor. The governor's job is to sense rpm and provide a ground for the solenoid. I would imagine the PO probably manually shifted using low and high range there by forcing the downshift when the clutch was used and the lever moved. Will be going to a cruise in tonight, usually a fellow with a 53 DeSoto shows up. If he is there tonight I could try to get some pics of the wiring and the carb and it's set up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.