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compression ratio


Pooshoe

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2 hours ago, Mopar-Boy said:

Martybose, where did you source the cam?  I am rebuilding the 230, will go w 2 barrel manifold, split headers but orig steel head milled to true it up.

The place I bought my cam from went out of business about 15 years ago, so I can't help with that.

 

Marty

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Performance cam sources

 

Delta cams

 

https://www.deltacam.com/

 

Vintage Powerwagons,

 

https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/

 

Mopar Montana, though you may want to talk to them as I think they handed that off.

http://www.moparmontana.com/

 

Egge machine does regrinds, not sure if they do a performance version, ask.  They also have NOS ones.

 

https://egge.com/

 

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On 8/30/2020 at 6:11 PM, Sniper said:

I am running Milodon studs simple because I could figure out what I needed with Milodonn's catalog, ARP not so much.  With as low performing as our engines are fancy studs aren't really needed.

Sniper, would you happen to have the Milodon part numbers for the studs you used?

 

Also, I agree that studs are not needed for our relatively low-performance engines, but in my case, I plan to use them because it makes it easier to mount things to the head, such as a dual-carb intake, horn, oil filter, etc., without having to figure it all out 100% ahead of time, before torquing the bolts in place.  My plan is to use studs with some extra length, torque the primary nuts in place (to torque the head and gasket), then install the items I mentioned above onto those nuts, using a second set of nuts.  That will give me the flexibility to tinker with my carb linkage and such, without having to worry about getting the arrangement if all those things just right the first time.

Edited by Matt Wilson
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The only thing I noticed about the ARP studs that I like is that they have the outer end of them with Allen head holes that allow just one ( or more) to easily removed on a head that had several studs leaking coolant leaking and reseal to stop the leaks. Beyond that they are overkill for sure.

 

My 2? cents. Are there pennies avail. in your area?  Short supply of them and other change around here at times.

 

DJ

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Bob R.  I searched for a while on eBay.  Two popped up locally and they were close enough to do a buy it now.  The seller was a retired boat mechanic, so I believe they are marine conversion items.  He said the neat thing about them is they can be reused after being annealed. As for an original source not sure where you would find one but you might get one cut from sheet copper using a regular gasket as a template.  These days of digitalizing stuff and using a water jet who knows what is possible. I have the uninstalled one if you want a thickness measurement.

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4 hours ago, Matt Wilson said:

Sniper, would you happen to have the Milodon part numbers for the studs you used?

 

Also, I agree that studs are not needed for our relatively low-performance engines, but in my case, I plan to use them because it makes it easier to mount things to the head, such as a dual-carb intake, horn, oil filter, etc., without having to figure it all out 100% ahead of time, before torquing the bolts in place.  My plan is to use studs with some extra length, torque the primary nuts in place (to torque the head and gasket), then install the items I mentioned above onto those nuts, using a second set of nuts.  That will give me the flexibility to tinker with my carb linkage and such, without having to worry about getting the arrangement if all those things just right the first time.

 

That is exactly why I got the studs too. 

Milodon 81254 for the studs

Milodon 82100 for the nuts and washers

 

I haven't tried them yet. 

 

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As one data point, you can go to the Best Gasket website and they will tell you the compressed thickness of head gaskets for our engines.  I think the thickness value is 0.042" for my 25" block.  Of course, that is for their brand of gasket.  Other brands may vary somewhat, but at least this gives you an idea.

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