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Points are points right? Or wrong?


p24-1953

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just installed the new distributor and she fired up.  Went to stock up the emergency kit of trunk goodies and I noticed that on rock auto they dont have points listed for the 40 distributor, but they have them for the 53 distributor.  Napa on the other hand has the same points listed for both distributors.  Both have 218 engines both have autolite distributors but different  distrbutor numbers.  So the question is " are all autolight distributor points the same" or is there really a difference? 

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I'd just like to find some well made ones.  I recently picked up a distributor that had been in storage for some 30 years.  In it was a set of points that are remarkable in their build quality compared anything I can find today.  They're so superior that even though they weren't absolutely perfect, I gave them a light filing and installed them.

_

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They are pretty much all junk these days, weak springs, poor contact material, soft plastic cam follower that wears quickly,  no provision to lube the breaker cam.  But as far as will they fit, you need to get them by the number on the dist. These numbers begin 8th three letters followed by numbers IAT, IGS, and similar is what to look for.  Number is on the tag on the body of the distributor.  Several different series were used over the years and caps and internal parts vary from series to series.

Edited by greg g
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Yeah! Lots of junk out there. Waste of time and money. Once you've determined the correct Autolite part # for your distributor you can find NOS ones. There are vendors selling NOS stuff. I've purchased a few from eBay. It will likely cost you a lot more than the cheap repro stuff, but well worth it considering the aggravation this crap causes us. There's still lots of this stuff out there. The condensers however can be an issue, because they can degrade by sitting on a shelf over time. I recently switched to a Pertronix module witch eliminated the points and condenser altogether. So far it seems to work flawlessly.  It installed relatively easily.

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12 hours ago, p24-1953 said:

just installed the new distributor and she fired up.  Went to stock up the emergency kit of trunk goodies and I noticed that on rock auto they dont have points listed for the 40 distributor, but they have them for the 53 distributor.  Napa on the other hand has the same points listed for both distributors.  Both have 218 engines both have autolite distributors but different  distrbutor numbers.  So the question is " are all autolight distributor points the same" or is there really a difference? 

This is rich hartung, I have an autolite catalog but the first thing I need to know is what is the dizzy number on the metalband  such as IGS-xxxx ot IGT-xxxx or what ever is stamped into the plate.

 

From that information i can tell you the correct points, cap roto and condensors to replace with the autolite original manufacture parts.  You can also write to me at Desoto1939@aol.com

 

Rich Hartung

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9 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

This is rich hartung, I have an autolite catalog but the first thing I need to know is what is the dizzy number on the metalband  such as IGS-xxxx ot IGT-xxxx or what ever is stamped into the plate.

 

From that information i can tell you the correct points, cap roto and condensors to replace with the autolite original manufacture parts.  You can also write to me at Desoto1939@aol.com

 

Rich Hartung

Rich thank you for this info.  I purchased this distributor as NOS and am not disappointed.  It even came in the original autolite box.    I always like to have replacement parts in case of emergency.  The distributor is a Auto-Lite IGS-4204 #955563

Screenshot_20200818-211551_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20200818-211535_eBay.jpg

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Thanks for the number onthe dizzy:

 

According to my book this fits 1941 plymouth P11, P12

the following Autolite components will fit your dizzy

Cap- igc1107s

rotor   igc1016b

contact points igp3028es

condensor  ig3927g

breaker plate igs3004

bearings 2 unsed  ig579a

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

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  • 9 months later...

Forum friends

 

I'm in a situation where I put a deposit down on a car and the current owner can't get it running.  He said he order points and they weren't right, which based on this string makes sense.  My question is if anyone knows how many different types of points came on the 1940 Plymouth. 

 

I'm trying to get distributor number from the current owner; however, I thought if there is say 3 or 4 different types of points used that it would be feasible for me to just buy all of them from either Bernbaum's or Robert's and have them overnighted to the current owner (then I'll look for a NOS after I get the car).   I know this says crazy, but I'm under a time crunch and the car is 8 hours from me and an hour from the current owner (in storage). 

 

Thank you in advance for the help. 

 

Dave

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I recently got a set of at NAPA that showed correct for my year of car but ended up not correct for my distributor. I didn't pay a lot of attention they looked the same and just installed them when I noticed everything was the same but the cam follower didn't come close to touching the distributor cam.

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Thanks for some clarification So,the difference would be in the rub block? Odd that the motors are basically the same for many years, makes and models but something like a simple ignition part is that different. Guess I've been fortunate and have never had a set of points not work.

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There are differences all kinds amongst the several different distributors.  Some 

There are tall bodies with short caps, tall caps with short bodies, square alignment notches, rounded notches, some have tall rotors,  sme short. Some points mount above the cam Some mount below. Some adjusting slots are at the base of the points, some are

Te at the contacts end.  There are a couple different ways the coil wire terminal is made and insulated. All factors which lead to recording your cars distributor  number and recording it in your maint manual.

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I continue to be amazed at not only the wealth of information on this great forum, but also on all of the forum members willing to educate those of us (me very much included) on the in and outs of these old Mopars.  I just bought another Mopar ('40 Plymouth) choosing it over a Chevrolet and Ford.  I like the fact that it's less common; however, without the help of this forum in the past I might not have gone Mopar.  It's a great support network and I greatly appreciate all of you.

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3 hours ago, Jerry Roberts said:

 

IMG_8782.jpg

It is all how they are installed in the breaker plate for each car manufacturer and also for each specific distibutor model. Just look at the 2 nd and 3rd pictures at the top of the attached page. You will note that the point contact is a screw type that gets ajdusted with a small wrench. These were used in 1938 and back.  1939 Chnage to a different contact setup inwhich you turned a set screw inthe breaker plate to make the proper gap adjustment.

 

So you alwasy need to know the disbrutor number so that you can order the correct contact point, roto, cap, vacuum advance and also breaker plate assembly.

 

Basically condensors are all the same, but the big difference is how they are monted in the breaker plate assembly the length of wire and the clip or contact point.  There are alot of factors that need to be 100% correct to make your dizzy work properly.

 

Also suggest that you get copies of various cross reference catalogs such as the Autolite electrical components catalog so you have the information for your car and or truck.  I do have these catalogs and they have been scanned and are on CD if you  need one.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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On 8/17/2020 at 11:03 PM, p24-1953 said:

just installed the new distributor and she fired up.  Went to stock up the emergency kit of trunk goodies

One advantage you have is the old distributor.

If it was me, I would go through it and rebuild it so it is ready to put in service.

 

Then if needed if you break down. A lot easier to swap in your working spare distributor on the side of the road then trying to troubleshoot points/condenser and installing them, while standing on your head leaning over a fender.

Remove the vacuum advance line and 1 hold down bolt ... are the caps the same? time it by ear and get to a place where you can work on it or use timing light.

 

Is way easier to work on these distributors on the bench and fine tune them rather on the side of the road when already frustrated from breaking down.

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when setting up the opening gap for the points I use a tool called a Snap Gap tool.  The tool has several sleeves that go overt the cam on the various disbrutor manufactors.

 

The sleeve is setup so that you do not have to be on a high point on the cam.  There is a feeler gage with the different thickness to set the points and also an adapter to compensate for the sleeve.

 

So you select the 20 gage feeler gage and then the adapter   comes right up to match against the 20 gage feeler.  You then gap the points with the two flat gages. The points again do not have to be on the point of the cam and can be at any sport on the cam.

 

Set the points. pull the two feller gages, pull the sleeve. Put the cap back on and you are set to go.  I will try to attach a picture of the Snap Gap Kit.

To see some of these tools go to Ebay and type in Snap-gap. there are several sets.  The kits start around the late 40's but can be used for earlier cars such as my 39 Desoto. It is all based on the type of distributor on your car.

Rich Hartung 

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