Alan Hensley Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 (edited) I'm in the middle of dismantling a 1950 engine/Bell Housing. Engine/Transmission removed. Clutch removed. Crank nut removed Bell Housing-to-engine bolts removed. How in the world do I remove the flywheel. 2" nut in the center of the flywheel. But a 2" socket with a 3/4" airwrench won't remove it. Yes, there are a series of bolts on the rear of hte flywheel facing the engine. Do I remove them to remove the flywheel? Additionally, how do I remove the crank pulley with a three-legged puller w/o damaging the belt groove. Tried to use the puller, but appeared to be warping the engine side of the pulley. Thanks Edited August 12, 2020 by Alan Hensley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 My memory is a little fuzzy but as I recall, the flywheel is connected to the crankshaft with 4 or 8 bolts + nuts, and the transmission input shaft rides on a bushing through the flywheel into the crankshaft...the crankshaft pulley has the big threaded fastener, either a crankjaw to accommodate hand starting or just a big headed bolt...that crankshaft pulley should have two threaded holes to screw bolts into for a bar puller, not a jawed puller...gotta be careful not to thread those bolts into the timing chain cover or ya might perforate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Never seen a 2”nut on a flywheel. Do you have Fluid Drive? There is a large nut on those to retain the clutch drive plate, but you don’t want to remove that if you don’t need to. And if it is a Fluid Drive there are 8 studs with nuts on the block side of the crank flange. You’ll need a 5/8” open end wrench to remove them, then the FD unit can be removed as an assembly. Be careful, it’s heavy. If you have a standard clutch/flywheel setup there would be 4 bolts holding the flywheel to the crank flange. Also, your thread title states 1950 B1B. A B1B wouldn’t have Fluid Drive, as that was introduced with the B2 series in 1950. Maybe your truck is a B2B? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 2 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: Never seen a 2”nut on a flywheel. Do you have Fluid Drive? There is a large nut on those to retain the clutch drive plate, but you don’t want to remove that if you don’t need to. And if it is a Fluid Drive there are 8 studs with nuts on the block side of the crank flange. You’ll need a 5/8” open end wrench to remove them, then the FD unit can be removed as an assembly. Be careful, it’s heavy. If you have a standard clutch/flywheel setup there would be 4 bolts holding the flywheel to the crank flange. Also, your thread title states 1950 B1B. A B1B wouldn’t have Fluid Drive, as that was introduced with the B2 series in 1950. Maybe your truck is a B2B? Is this also true with a B1C? just saying project cars in handle shows B1C and thread says B1B ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 If it is FD no real need to remove the driven plate nut...in fact do not remove it unless you have a damn good reason to and special tools.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Hensley Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 (edited) Thank you all SO MUCH! I will give your advice a try tomorrow. I have a 1949 B1C, and a 1950 B2B I am salvaging for parts to restore the 1949. The '49 has a three-speed transmission. The 50 has a 4-speed. Yes, the '50 has a fluid drive. The '50 was used at Fennel Auto in Missouri before they went out of business. and they made a lot of mods rather than buy the correct parts to make repairs. I would have liked to use the 4-speed instead of the 3-speed, but it is a mess. They welded a 1/4-inch frame around the top for some reason. so, think that is a no-go. The floorboard is rusted through. Just ordered a replacement floorboard and will use body panel adhesive and steel rivets, even though I have a plethora of welders. After watching videos, looks like the way to go to prevent warping and hours of stitch/spot welding. Thank you for the advice on the pulley. I will find the appropriate puller to pull it loose. Believe I can order it from Northern Tool. Edited August 15, 2020 by Alan Hensley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.