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Bushing assy stuck


Jac

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I want to remove the front wheel suspension of my P20, because I want to sand blast the chassis. But the bushing assy (all 4 on both side) are stuck, I think because of rust.

Anybody has an idea how to remove them? I tried with an impact wrench and a break bar. Still no movement. Would it hurd when I heat it up?

 

 

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As Sniper says unbolt the upper & lower "bars"..............this is a much simpler job, although if the bushings need replacing then you need to place the bars in a LARGE bench vice and maybe a piece of pipe over a breaker bar to give extra leverage........these bushes are tight........but I'd undo the 4 bolts on each bar from the frame.......maybe even take the upper & lower A arms with bars still attached to a local machine shop or car/ truck repair shop or similar to have them at least undo the bushes to start with then you can finish the job at home........check the diamensions between the A arms before undoing to compare with the stock specs in the workshop manual also..........Jac.........welcome aboard from Australia........andyd    

Edited by Andydodge
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Thanks Andyd,

I think its midnight in Australia already, isn't it?

But I think I will remove the only the lower and upper bars.  Only reason to undo the bushes is for replacing the seals of them.

I did not tell about my other problem and that is removing the end package. I cannot get that thing off. I tried heating, penetration oil and a pully puller. Does anyone of you has another idea?

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1 hour ago, Jac said:

Thanks Andyd,

I think its midnight in Australia already, isn't it?

But I think I will remove the only the lower and upper bars.  Only reason to undo the bushes is for replacing the seals of them.

I did not tell about my other problem and that is removing the end package. I cannot get that thing off. I tried heating, penetration oil and a pully puller. Does anyone of you has another idea?

20200811_152746_copy_800x503.jpg

If you have an air compressor, I highly recommend a good air hammer and one of these:

image.png.d69fc3e5f746d3522d99616a7253f1d6.png

The tool used in an air hammer works much better than the manual end/adapter.  But, if you have no air compressor and hammer it will work by  prying and hammering. Place it between the parts, drive in tightly and pry.  If it is still stuck, smack the arm end with the hammer while prying.    It will ruin the seal but they probably need replacement anyway.

 

 

The tool with the air hammer adapter works much better than

Edited by kencombs
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I'm not a fan of the pickle fork tools for separating tie rod ends from their respective homes. I've never had good success with them, and they tend to cause more damage in the end. I prefer a proper tie rod end puller tool.I have an OTC set, but my go-to from that set is this one. It has never failed me, unless space prohibits its use. 

OTC Toyota 09611-20015-01 Puller, Tie Rod End  

 

That being said... I've seen a few guys that loosen tie rod ends simply by giving the steering arm eye a good rap with a hammer. Somehow that shock on the tapered socket will often pop them loose. I'm timid to try it and just revert back to my puller tool. 

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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

I'm not a fan of the pickle fork tools for separating tie rod ends from their respective homes. I've never had good success with them, and they tend to cause more damage in the end. I prefer a proper tie rod end puller tool.I have an OTC set, but my go-to from that set is this one. It has never failed me, unless space prohibits its use. 

OTC Toyota 09611-20015-01 Puller, Tie Rod End  

 

That being said... I've seen a few guys that loosen tie rod ends simply by giving the steering arm eye a good rap with a hammer. Somehow that shock on the tapered socket will often pop them loose. I'm timid to try it and just revert back to my puller tool. 

As I mentioned, it will likely destroy the seal.  The type I showed when attached to an air hammer makes quick work of it and sometimes even saves the seal.

 

I don't think I ever saw Dad use a puller for those, or ball joints.  Just hold a heavy hammer on one side and smack the other, hard!  I can do that but finding space to hold and swing two hammers is hard on some vehicles.  That and laying on a creeper and handle two hammers is not nearly as easy as it was 50-60years ago.

Edited by kencombs
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That video of him hitting upward with a 4 lb hammer made me laugh.  First of all, that was a newish install, not a 50 year old car/truck.  Then he had it on a lift with lots of room to swing.  And, how in the heck can one swing a heavy hammer upward with any great force?  I did, hundreds of times using a little 32oz framing hammer , and had the torn elbow tendon to show for it.

 

In my world, on a creeper, laying on my back that is not a tip, that's a recipe for frustration.   Two hammer method,  swinging horizontally , maybe, otherwise I'll grab my pickle fork in an air hammer every time!

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I am not a fan of tie rod forks unless the joint is completely worn out. The forks tear the rubber boots, so the life is shortened if you plan to re-use the tie-rod end. Ends aren't cheap. Depending on the work I am doing, if they are not worn out I try to re-use them. Torn rubber is a no-go for me. Steering components need to hold grease. A vital part of safely driving the vehicle.

Edited by keithb7
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Replacement rubber boots are readily available and quite cheap to purchase.

 

I say,  do what it takes and get the work done and drive ,drive!  ?

 

DJ

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Jac...........if you are just removing them to replace the rubber seals, why not just clean the areas completely, squirt new grease in , reclean, then use short pieces of rubber hose or radiator hose, say about 1/2-5/8th diameter with a single cut then wrap around the seal area and use a couple of nylon wire ties to keep the new rubber attached.........if the bushings ARE buggered then replace the lot but if its just the rubber seals this may help......................and I'm on the Oz east coast, 8-9 hours ahead of you ............. andyd  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried the tool that @Merle Coggins
mentioned. I put it on and hit the tie rod a few times with a hammer and give it some more turn on the tool and finally it came out. Perfect!

The idea is to remove the whole wheel assembly from the chassis so the chassis can be cleaned, sanded and painted.

So next step is now removing the back wheel assembly

 

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most folks when rapping with the hammer preload the assembly with a lever of some sort...a tire tool works well...I prefer a puller when possible...often there is little room between the assembly to allow use of some pullers....some tie rods I work on smaller cars I have an insert that has proven to work great.  

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