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Dryerventwizard

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I have fixed all rust except this.took old door sills off and this is what I found. I went under and all kinds of dirt was falling out of rust. 2 questioned does any body know where to get sill plates for 1940 dodge d14 or what have u guys done for sill plates. And what do u guys think I should do cut and weldpieaces of metal in which I do not know how to do. I have a welder in the box never used it yet because  I don't know how yet. Or cut from front door to back door out and replace whole thing. Thanks in advance.

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I  am not a body repair guy by any means but I would guess - It looks like your going to have to do some  welding.

I'm also not that great of a welder either.

I had a bad rust spot on the back side of my rear fender. Cut it out to good metal then tacked a piece of metal on the back side and smoothed out the front side with fiberglass. Took a little bending to get it to fit decent plus I roughed it up with 80 grit emery cloth before I tacked it on. Also had sprayed some OSPHO and let it soak a day after cutting out the bad just to be certain I wasn't fiber-glassing over any rust. Bad thing here is it's located where it might get kicked a time or two getting in and out of the car. One to many kicks might drop a chunk of bondo.

But my fender looked OK after I primed it although later on I found another fender and replaced the whole mess.

I have seen a guy on eBay that makes and sells replacement door sills, I got a replacement piece for my 39 from him. The piece that goes across the back just below the trunk and it fit just fine. 

I think the  best thing would be to find a shop around there that can make the piece. I wouldn't cut it out yet. If you get the piece made it would probably help them to see it first on the car. Clean the rust off for now and spray a rust converter on it, front and back to at least stop the rust.

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Yes the rockers will need to be replaced. I had mine done on my '52 Suburban by a friend of mine, who is a professional welder. He sometimes had problems due to trying to weld old metal with the new patch panels. I would find someone who could do the welding for you- here are some sources of repair panels:

SRPM Steel Repair Panels

classicparts4u  eBay seller

 

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Edited by Bob Riding
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So that is what it is called rockers ok. I think my drivereside is OK i am going to double check that side. But passenger side is bad i keep finding dirt when I break the rust away then a lot of dirt keeps falling out.the one picture that still shows all the metal but it is very soft and I can see dirt behind it.

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2 hours ago, Lloyd said:

I  am not a body repair guy by any means but I would guess - It looks like your going to have to do some  welding.

I'm also not that great of a welder either.

I had a bad rust spot on the back side of my rear fender. Cut it out to good metal then tacked a piece of metal on the back side and smoothed out the front side with fiberglass. Took a little bending to get it to fit decent plus I roughed it up with 80 grit emery cloth before I tacked it on. Also had sprayed some OSPHO and let it soak a day after cutting out the bad just to be certain I wasn't fiber-glassing over any rust. Bad thing here is it's located where it might get kicked a time or two getting in and out of the car. One to many kicks might drop a chunk of bondo.

But my fender looked OK after I primed it although later on I found another fender and replaced the whole mess.

I have seen a guy on eBay that makes and sells replacement door sills, I got a replacement piece for my 39 from him. The piece that goes across the back just below the trunk and it fit just fine. 

I think the  best thing would be to find a shop around there that can make the piece. I wouldn't cut it out yet. If you get the piece made it would probably help them to see it first on the car. Clean the rust off for now and spray a rust converter on it, front and back to at least stop the rust.

what kind of rust converter. Once I cut all rust to make sure it all gone.

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I will give a vote for ospho, can get it at ace hardware and pretty reasonably priced. Been around since 1947. Brush it on or spray with a squirt bottle for hard to reach areas.

It turns the rust into a black primer that can be painted. Or just left as is.

 

Otherwise, if you want to stick with something specifically for automotive restoration and the absolute very best, I would check out Eastwood products. They have a few different levels of quality for different prices.

Same time, Ace hardware sells a rust converter in a rattle can I have no xp with them and personally would stay away from no name brands.

 

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1 hour ago, Bob Riding said:

Yes the rockers will need to be replaced. I had mine done on my '52 Suburban by a friend of mine, who is a professional welder. He sometimes had problems due to trying to weld old metal with the new patch panels. I would find someone who could do the welding for you- here are some sources of repair panels:

SRPM Steel Repair Panels

classicparts4u  eBay seller

 

IMG_0674.jpeg

IMG_0668.jpeg

IMG_0671.jpeg

IMG_0673.jpeg

thank u I contacted them 585 for passenger side inner and outer rockers.

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With zero welding experience I wouldn't make sheet metal my first try.

 

You could always practice on some scrap 18ga. 

 

.024 wire mig, c25 gas makes it pretty easy but I'd try some scrap, if you're comfortable do it, if not have it done.

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Wizard,

With rust inhibitor you need to prime or paint over it fast within a day or so. If you live in a humid area it will draw moisture out of the air onto the affected area. I left mine too long and it took me months to cut out and tack in repairs. Look at my albums in my profile, there are a few before and after photos of my rust and repairs.

 

Vince

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I know this probably isn't much help but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and have a go...........I taught my self to weld when I bought my 1940 Dodge and replaced the front 18 inches & back 18 inches  of the sills or rockers on both sides of the car, also the both sides of the cowl and the rear beaver panel below the trunk, also the area under the rear window.........all was done using Oxy welding gear, admittedly I had also started doing a panelbeating/welding course at the local tech college after work but eventually got the hang of it..........some areas took a couple of goes but really the only way to learn is to have a go.........I also widened both of the rear fenders 2" front to back so that the fenders covered the 10" rear wheels as shown.............and taught myself to paint the car as well as installing the 318 Poly, disc brakes rack & pinion etc..........this was all back in the 1970's and the car is still as built..........have a go.......you never know how good you'll get..........you mention that you have a welder in a box unused.....I asssume its a MIG?.......get hold of some scrap steel and have a go, I'd also suggest getting an Oxy set as whilst it can be fiddly to start with you can do a lot with an Oxt set but that just me............lol............Andy Douglas

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Edited by Andydodge
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My 39 Plym conv cpe had a lot of rust out problems in the quarter panels in the cowl and  the rear door jamb. I got patch panels from the Plymouth Doctor, my metal man welded them in..

I have used OSPHO rust transformer for many years on rusty sheet metal prior to painting, however, if the metal is badly rusted away you will have to install new metal. Wm.

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