Jump to content

New Member: Just bought a 1936 Plymouth 2 Door Sedan


Tierod

Recommended Posts

New Member: 1936 Plymouth 2 Door Sedan

I just picked up this 36 2 door sedan, I believe it is a touring sedan P2?

Original inside (I've been told) , 1 repaint many years ago on the outside,.  It is said to have original 50k miles.  Runs good, low RPM knock. Starts fine. Smoke bad on de-acceleration.

I love it...Need to learn about these MOPARS as I've been a Shoebox fan for years...

Bill j.

 

"Tierod"

IMG_0375.jpg

IMG_0376.jpg

IMG_7470.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice car! I believe that one will have the  201 engine. Smoke on deceleration could be attributed to valve guide wear. You let your foot off the gas, the throttle valve closes. The engine is still trying to suck in air from anywhere it can. In these conditions, worn valve guides or valve stems will allow air from the crank case to be drawn into the cylinder. With it comes oil. This oil burns and shoots out the pipe predominantly at deceleration.

Edited by keithb7
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great car, looks straight, complete, and unmolested. It appears to be a P2 - bright sergeant stripes on the headlamp stanchions, wood grain trim around the windows and on glove boxes (one fake ha ha), two wipers, should have brown rubber starter pedal pad and other rubber interior parts. These are wonderful drivers as they are small, steering is light, and the hydraulic brakes are adequate for a 2700 lb. car. Mechanical parts are available, although some are '36 only as this was a one year only body/chassis. Trim parts are expensive and somewhat had to find. The only change I made to my unrestored P2 coupe was a replacement L230 '58 Dodge flathead engine for the blown 201. It runs like a small V8. You've made a good choice.

DSC02400.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A 230 in this car must be a nice torque gain! I have a friend donating a 251. I think its going into my '38. Mine already has the 25" 226. The 251 should be a fairly straight forward swap.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tierod, welcome to the site and the world of ‘36 Plymouth owners. I have owned mine for 54 years. They are nice driving, fun cars.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a great find. I love seeing these old gems like this that have survived and are still pretty much original. I bought a '36 Plymouth rumble seat coupe in 1956 for $25.00 but foolishly sold it later. Mine was black like your car is. Keep it and enjoy it.

John R

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

   Nice survivor Tierod. The question is, what are you going to do about that engine knock and valve guide problem. I think the engine could use a dose of Seafoam to de-carbon the valves and seats. Your familiar with valve in block engines, so I would think the next step would be to drop the pan and valve covers to clean out any sludge built up from the oil used back in it’s day and clean the the oil pick-up screen. I use Valvoline 10-30 conventional. You might be able to pull each rod cap and determine which rod bearing is the problem before it ruins the crank. You might be able to fix it with emery cloth and a new rod cap insert bearing. Sorry to be a downer on all the accolades but I thought it needed to be addressed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 Foot Box...Thanks for the advice... Great info,,,I'll go hunt down some Seafoam..   It's not a downer, it's all good...   considering my options including looking for a Spitfire 265...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Tierod said:

9 Foot Box...Thanks for the advice... Great info,,,I'll go hunt down some Seafoam..   It's not a downer, it's all good...   considering my options including looking for a Spitfire 265...

 

 

Good looking car and I see a bit of the trunk in back so it is the touring version.

 

With respect to putting a 265 into it, better measure twice!

 

In the very late 1930s Chrysler started building engines in Canada and all of those were the bigger 25" block. The follow on was to design the low end cars like Plymouth so they could take either engine (Dodge branding being used for Canadian Plymouths). But that all happened after your car was built. So I think it highly likely that fitting an engine two inches longer than your current one into the engine compartment will not be an easy task.

 

It would probably be much easier to fit a 1950s US Plymouth or US Dodge car engine into your car. I believe that would be just a straight bolt in.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Tierod said:

TodFitch: Super, I'll keep that in mind when making the decision (rebuild or swap) .  So those are considered the 23" that I am reading about?

 

Yes, that would be the 23" engine.

 

As I understand it, the fluid drive cars had eight bolts holding the flywheel on but four of those match up with the four bolt crank. And when they went to 12v they changed the number of teeth on the flywheel ring gear. They may have gone to a narrow fan belt around that time too, not sure about that. Other than those items, the later 23" Plymouth and Dodge car engines should just be a bolt it operation.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use