Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
lostviking

Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater

Recommended Posts

I'm starting a new thread to show this restoration, rather than continue to use the "What Heater fits..." thread I started when I was trying to find a heater. I'm not going to move the content related to the restoration, but you can still see it here:

 

The beginning of the project to restore the heater is there, I'm picking it back up with the rust removal of the rest of the box and associated parts. Today I did the first half of the main box. I again used a power supply and a bucket of water with Washing Soda it in. The details can be seen on the previous thread. Nothing new there. I am using the currently limiting resistor this time of course to avoid damaging my power supply, again. Due to other resistances in the circuit, namely I didn't bother to get a perfect connection from my negative wire to the metal, the current was about 1.36A. That's based upon there being a 6.82ish volt drop across my 5-Ohm resistor. Ohms law.

 

I didn't take a picture of the metal before, but I do have the other side and the first part I did today. I left it in the bath for around 3 hours. There is a very minor amount of rust in some places. Most people might just use a spray over rust type paint, but I'm going to put it back in the bath tomorrow to finish the job.

 

Looking at these pieces to take pictures, I see the worst part is the ones I've already done. I still wouldn't paint over this rust. A side benefit of the electrolytic rust removal, is that is take all the original paint off too :)

 

first cleaning bottom.jpg

first cleaning top.jpg

Edited by lostviking
Added some pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the other half before I ran it through the bath. The pictures above had the same paint (some still there), but the electrolytic process takes you down to bare metal. I'll need to get some more VHT self-etching primer to protect the metal once I wash the parts post rust removal.

dirty inside.jpg

dirty top.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The medallion and the hands/tabs on the various doors are riveted on, so I'm going to have to dremel them off before I do any painting. I'm also going to remove the screens. The just have some small tabs bent over them. Easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, the medalion was just bent tabs, so that came off easy. The little door handles took a drill. No big. The inside of them is still rusty, so I'll put them in again. Remember when you use this process, that the electrons always take the shorted path, so if an area is "hidden" like the inside of the handles, you need to somehow make that open so there is a direct, or close line of sight. In my case, removing them was perfect.

 

I dipped the first have of the main case again to get it really cleaned up. Only an hour, but after improving the connections of my setup, I was getting the full 2.5Amps I calculated.

 

After some minor cleanup with a fiber circular painter removal disk (fibers are like wheel spokes), I painted it with self-etching primer. Under the medalion I was able to find the original paint, which is kind of gray hammered finish. I bought some of that also. Here is the primer drying in the sun. I need to wait 1 hour to top coat. I'll post a picture of that later.

 

You can see from how smooth the primer is, that this process really gets the metal clean.

first piece primer.jpg

first piece primer 2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a first coat of the hammered finish paint. I think I like it. I didn't sand off a bit of left over paint where I circled, I should have but hey. I'll wait a couple days and sand it before I do another coat of paint. The inside I'll only do area's I might have missed the first time.

 

Not bad for an amateur and rattle cans. I'll be more careful about sanding off paint that stays behind on the remaining parts.

first coat on first body half.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I left the second half of the main body in the tank for 3 hours. Here it is in all it's glory. You can scroll up to see this exact view as a before. The black area's are where the rust was heaviest. Rust doesn't just magically disappear, it get "converted" by replating of the steel from the donor anodes. That looks black and can be a bit loose also. I go at that with a steel brush or wheel to remove as much as I can. The rest gets painted over.

 

Here is one coat of the same primer. After 10 mins I'll sand any rough spots and recoat. The some of the same hammer finish paint.

second half raw.jpg

second half primer.jpg

 

The air is pretty wet in San Diego today...gonna take a bit longer for the paint to be ready to sand.

Edited by lostviking

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use