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mrbobs48

Re Re Compression

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Pulled the motor today she was tired after all those years. She is heading to the machine for all new stuff. $2500-$3000

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hard to find a shop you can trust. also to finish it when they say they will. all I want to do with mine right now is drop the oil pan to clean it, but I am afraid it is more difficult than it seems. I hope your rebuild will go smooth.    capt den

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While you have it out could you post the length from the front face of the damper to the rear face of the block where the bell housing  mates up.   Thanks...its for planning purposes on my own project.   

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That's seems like a very reasonable quote. You may try to ask the machinist if you can source your own parts. It may safe you money. 

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5 hours ago, captden29 said:

hard to find a shop you can trust. also to finish it when they say they will. all I want to do with mine right now is drop the oil pan to clean it, but I am afraid it is more difficult than it seems. I hope your rebuild will go smooth.    capt den

Its not a bad job for the old Mopars I have worked on and done this. If you are able and willing, a few tools, and some patience it's not a difficult job. I suggest you start your own thread ans ask lots of questions. Don't be worried about sounding stupid. We all had to learn and knew little to nothing at one point too. There are many great members here willing to help. I am not aware of any bully-type intimidating responses there for asking simple questions.

 

If you cannot get the pan cleaned up properly, take it to a machine shop and pay to have them set it in their hot tank for a while. They'll get all the sludge out that you may not even be able to see. Do not let anyone media-blast in in any way.

Edited by keithb7

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7 hours ago, keithb7 said:

. Do not let anyone media-blast in in any way.

 

 

This is extremely important.  The Freewheeling Tony Smith ran into this and I can't remember if he had to get a new pan or cut the baffles out of the old one to get all the grit out.  treied to find his thread about it on Facebook, but darned if I could.

 

 

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The price you listed sounds fair. That is what I paid last year for all of the machine work on my engine. They had to boil the block 3x to get all of the crap out. Bored 0.020, line bored, decked the block, new cam bearings installed and reamed, head milled flat, turned and polished the crank, valve guides installed and reamed, replaced two valve seats and cleaned up the rest,  surfaced the flywheel and a full balance.  Finding a good shop with a staff that knows what they are doing is the real trick. Look for a shop that does mostly truck, industrial and construction engine work. Their clientele demands good work.

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On 8/1/2020 at 5:41 PM, captden29 said:

hard to find a shop you can trust. also to finish it when they say they will. all I want to do with mine right now is drop the oil pan to clean it, but I am afraid it is more difficult than it seems. I hope your rebuild will go smooth.    capt den

Captden, before you drop the pan, remove the side covers over the valve spring area. There is an equally nasty mess in there. Make sure the drain holes to the pan are open. Putty knife and aerosol carb cleaner work here. THEN, remove and clean pan. This allows valve area mess to go into pan rather than on floor.

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Thanks for the comments guys. SHARPS40 the length is 29 1/2 damper to bellhousing flat surface hole. Mike's machine shop here in Oklahoma City does all the hot rod guys engines. He is the best and I don't have to worry about messing anything up. He will be painting the engine Chrysler red not the aluminum color my choice. I am painting all the brackets black so the engine will pop. See you.

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Make sure they grind the camshaft and put in new camshaft bearings.  Also have a machine shop grind the crankshaft journals and get undersize bearing inserts.  Take the oil pressure relief valve out before they put the block in the boil out tank or the valve will rust tight and blow your oil gauge when you start the engine.  After they put in the valve guides make sure they knurl them to reduce oil consumption and make a better fit for the valves.  Knurling the valve guides puts a spiral groove in the guides which reduces excessive clearance and makes it harder for oil to go up the guides and escape.  Does that price include installing and starting up the new engine?  

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