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I’m not from Missouri, but when it comes to electrical stuff, their state motto of “The Show Me State” describes me.  (I usually build a demo of stuff on the bench, so I can see it, not just a drawing on paper.)

So, at the risk of being obnoxious, here are some more questions for you all to ignore or laugh at.

First, I’m talking 6 volt system here – not interested in switching to 12 VDC.

 

Re: signal flashers
Thermal (bimetalic) vs Electronic?  (I think I will NOT be using LEDs any place – don’t really like the looks of them, but for the signal indicator lights, with a single LED, maybe.)
I watched a video on You Tube about the pluses & minuses of each, and wonder what you all have used in a 6 VDC system.  (2 or 3 terminal, etc.)

 

Re: Relays
From what I understand, the signal switch will last longer, and can be a physically smaller switch, if the system incorporates relays, instead of sending all that current through the switch itself.  
Regarding the size of the switch, if a relay is used, could a signal switch from a 12 VDC automobile be used in a 6 VDC system?

Re: 4 wire vs 7 wire signal switches
Am I correct in assuming that the main difference is that the former connects both front & rear signal lights on the same wire, and the latter separates front & rear?  
What about the signal terminal lights – are they typically on yet another set of wires, like on a separate part of the switch?
 

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flasher, no comment on 6v specifically, but I like to get the extra loud ones as an auditory reminder my flashers are on.

 

relays, never used them on a flasher circuit, bit sure it would induce a delay so I see no reason other than added failure points and complexity to not use them.

 

Switch, a 12v switch might have an issue with the added current 6v use will put into it, but I doubt it.  I am running one of those clamp to the columns aftermarket turn signal setups that came with the car, it spent decades running 6v thru it, now it runs 12v, less current, less stress, but it doesn't know what it's running.  I did have to take it apart to sort out how it functioned to I could integrate it into my new wiring harness, cleaned the contacts and regreased it with silcone dielectric grease. 

 

Somewhere I have the drawing of how that switch is wired, I think.  If I can find it I'll post it.

 

 

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I would nix the led indicator if your 6v is pos ground. LEDs are polarity sensitive. Bulbs that are not polarity sensitive are commonplace but that's because they use an integrated solid state driver. Due to the internal circuitry of the driver having one even parallel with and incandescent can sometimes cause a non working or flickering issue which will drive you crazy from the inconsistent flickering combined with blinking. I would also nix it if you want to run the 3wire flasher. It uses two switches and the led won't trip the p terminal.

Not to mention, with a mechanical voltage regulator, they often flicker erratically.

 

A 12v switch with relays being used would definitely have no problems.

Without....maybe but usually they are pretty well overrated as far as current goes.

The circuit might be able to be simplified to a single relay by using a three terminal flasher.

 

Indicator lights are typically just tapped from the front turn signal power.

 

 

All this being said.....why re-invent the wheel here?

Hundreds of cars to choose from to just copy the factory circuit...they're time tested and work extremely reliably. Though only about 3 variations I've seen used.

 

Unless you want to go to electronic flashers then there are some considerations but I see no reason to do so without wanting to use all LED.

 

 

Edited by 50mech
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Also, you don't necessarily have to worry about current being increased because of the 6v.  Compare the load. An 1154  (6v) bulb uses 2.63/.75 amp on its two filaments.

The common 12v version (1157) uses 2.1/.59

The difference is actually negligible on standard bulbs.

6v bulbs are simply lower wattage.

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Not really trying to re-invent anything, just need to know how to complete the necessary list of parts.  (And, I just like to understand how stuff works.  Always did.  One of those kids that was always taking stuff apart.  Now I'm just a kid who is going on 65.)

 

I have an aftermarket "hotrod' turn signal kit, but it doesn't include a flasher, or relays.  Didn't even have a wiring diagram, but found one for "Chinese turn signal kit" on-line.  I also have a turn signal switch out of a 93 Chrysler T&C I scrapped out, and I dismantled it to see how the automatic cancel system works.  Had to take the switch apart to get to that part, and cut some rivets.  Then I opened up my Chinese signal switch to compare them.  Vast difference.  The Chinese one is really crudely made in comparison to the MoPar one.  The actual switch in the Chinese one is not closed, where as the MoPar one is completely sealed.  (I didn't dismantle the Chinese switch itself, but I suspect I would see a big difference in the quality of the contacts and contact plates as well.)

 

Another question about standard (small) dash indicator bulbs - would they get too hot for those plastic light tubes they use with LEDs?

 

Thank you both for your comments.  All appreciated, and helpful.  Could someone tell me a part number for a flasher & relays?  (Do I need two relays for a 7 wire configuration?  That's what the Chinese signal switch is, 7 wire.)

 

Edited by Eneto-55
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Here are the two wiring diagrams I have, a four wire one I got someplace back in 2010, and the Chinese 7-wire one.  I may have I gotten both of these from this site - I didn't record the source information.

 

That reminds me - Why does the Chinese one have a wire going to the brake switch?

 

turn signal wiring diagram.jpg

turn signal wiring diagram (Chinese).JPG

Edited by Eneto-55
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Whether 6v or 12 the generic kits use the same switch. They only change the flasher and sometimes the indicator bulb. Any 6v flasher will work. No relays necessary.

The brake light switch is there for combination use.

Since a lot of the cars these would go on are simply using their parking/brake lights for turn signals they don't have dual filament or separate turn signals/ brake lights , the brake switch still needs to activate the rear lamps.

Can't just leave it the way it is or brakes override turn signal.

Edited by 50mech
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Looks like you found some drawings, I couldn't find mine then I remembered, the switch I have didn't match any of the ones on line that I found, even going to the manufacturer's website didn't help, color codes did not match.  So I took it apart and sorted it out for myself.  Works fine now.  Reminds me, I have to get the 51 inspected in August for license renewal.

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In second diagram with brake switch, the front and rear lights are seperated. When brake is applied and signal is on, the opposite rear bulb is illuminated continously. 

Otherwise a seperate brake lamp is required. 

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On my 46, the previous owner added signals to the car.  He left the single trunk mounted stop light stock.  He added dual filiment pig tails to both front parking lamps and rear marker lights (aka tail lights). The switch is the simple one.  It is powered from the ACC terminal of the ign switch through a fuse to the mechanical flasher to the selector switch. Out put has right and left wires that split front and rear. The indicator light is inside the switch housing it flashes wit either right or left.  The dual element bulbs in both front parking lig1041029272_IMG_3799-001(1).JPG.a066c00153a2d36cc3b15d68cc030e4d.JPGht and the rear markers functioned as running lights and signals.  He left the standard non indexed bayounet in the fixtures so the new dual element bulbs must be installed with the correct element (brighter) aligned to the signal feed. The wires for the rear lamps are run under the floor mat and through a small hole in the trunk bulkhead plywood.

 

Since I have added some old motorcycle stalk lights at the rear with bright 6v single element bulbs to the rear to act as signals, and wired the bright elements in the stock tail lights to the brake circuit.  So currently I have stand alone Amber rear signals, and three brake light and tail lights.

5011906_dcd_85801_pri_larg.jpg

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Something I learned through dissecting a newer 535 flasher. They are basically electronic flashers. The terminal for the dash indicator is tripped electronically and it does not work with a positive ground system. This is why folks have had issues with new flashers.

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