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Clutch Slipping or Carburetor


Noah H

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Hello again,

 

I am having some difficulties with my 3 speed fluid drive dodge. When driving around 45 mph then stomping on the gas there is slight jerking. Like the car is trying to catch up. Then finally getting around 60 it slows down. When I slowly accelerate to higher speeds the problem isn’t present. The clutch had been replaced 7500 miles ago and the carb bowl is perfect clean. I have never really “stomped” on it as I usually baby my car. But this problem is quite noticeable now that I realize it. The clutch has about 2 1/2 inches before I feel resistance when I press my clutch in. There is no hesitation from the engine and the engine does not run rough at higher speeds. I’m also getting a good squirt of gas from the carb when I actuate they throttle as well. I also smell no foul odor of a slipping clutch 
 

as of now I am very stumped...

 

thanks all for your replies. 
 

noah 

Edited by Noah H
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It will get up to speed if I keep the pedal down but it sure does feel like something is trying to catch. Like it’s getting a little boost of power then cuts out it does this repeatedly but it is more of a soft “push” than a hard jerk 

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17 minutes ago, Noah H said:

It will get up to speed if I keep the pedal down but it sure does feel like something is trying to catch. Like it’s getting a little boost of power then cuts out it does this repeatedly but it is more of a soft “push” than a hard jerk 

That sounds like fuel delivery.   Air leak on suction side of pump, pump or restriction in carb inlet

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5 minutes ago, kencombs said:

That sounds like fuel delivery.   Air leak on suction side of pump, pump or restriction in carb inlet

I’ll try looking for a leak, where would I check? The inlet needle and passageway has been cleaned. Would it be a metering jet That may have some debris? It’s a Stromberg bxv3

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Hook your timing light up and check advance at different rpms  to see what the advance is doing, then floor it and watch some more. Timing should retard a fair amount under a quick load.

 

The proper specs for rpms/vs advance in degrees in in your repair manual.

 

Post results for others to compare to what they have seen to see if a problem could lay with that.??

 

DJ

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24 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Hook your timing light up and check advance at different rpms  to see what the advance is doing, then floor it and watch some more. Timing should retard a fair amount under a quick load.

 

The proper specs for rpms/vs advance in degrees in in your repair manual.

 

Post results for others to compare to what they have seen to see if a problem could lay with that.??

 

DJ

When I give it throttle slowly the timing mark on the crank pully moves away from me as I am on the driver side. So advance is working. I haven’t tried to floor it and watch it. Would flooring it make the marks advance then retard?

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Assuming you have the Carter BB carb, you may have an issue with your power jet. It has a vacuum operated needle that should pull down to restrict the jet under a normal vacuum condition. At WOT the vacuum would drop allowing the needle to lift and open up the power jet to add more fuel to the air stream. At least that's the way I understand it...

It sounds like this may not be happening properly. 

 

Item's 12, 13, & 14

post-41092-143137926173.jpg

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55 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Hook your timing light up and check advance at different rpms  to see what the advance is doing, then floor it and watch some more. Timing should retard a fair amount under a quick load.

 

 

Shouldn't timing advance as rpm is increased?

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Timing should retard the timing at a sudden WOT the slowly advance as the RPMS rise. Vacuum drops at sudden WOT then comes back as vacuum comes up with the RPMS.

 

Best actually do this while driving but I do not know anyone with a Rack that has the setup to do this while sitting in one place, nor can I pay pay $100-$200 an hour to put it on their dyno.

 

AS best as I understand the operation of the Vac. advance.

 

DJ

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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

Assuming you have the Carter BB carb, you may have an issue with your power jet. It has a vacuum operated needle that should pull down to restrict the jet under a normal vacuum condition. At WOT the vacuum would drop allowing the needle to lift and open up the power jet to add more fuel to the air stream. At least that's the way I understand it...

It sounds like this may not be happening properly. 

 

Item's 12, 13, & 14

post-41092-143137926173.jpg


it is the Stromberg bxvd-3 but the operations should be similar?

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If your fluid drive unit is low on fluid it can feel like you you have a slipping clutch.  The port for checking it is under the carpet on the passenger side of  the front floor center section.  Remove the floor hatch and the coil wire, then use your starterbutton to bump the engine so that one of the two fill/drain plugs is lined up in the hatch.  Remove the plug being careful not to drop it onto the bell housing.  You can stuff rags around it before removing it to prevent this.  The fluid should be up to the edge of the fill port if the car is parked on the level.  

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2 minutes ago, busycoupe said:

If your fluid drive unit is low on fluid it can feel like you you have a slipping clutch.  The port for checking it is under the carpet on the passenger side of  the front floor center section.  Remove the floor hatch and the coil wire, then use your starterbutton to bump the engine so that one of the two fill/drain plugs is lined up in the hatch.  Remove the plug being careful not to drop it onto the bell housing.  You can stuff rags around it before removing it to prevent this.  The fluid should be up to the edge of the fill port if the car is parked on the level.  


I will check that as well, but do fluid drive units leak? I heard they are a sealed unit. 

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They are sealed units, but the can leak if the seal is worn.  4 years ago I moved from coastal North Carolina to central Massachusetts.  In N.Carolina the biggest hill in town was the pitchers mound at the high school field.  My car ran great.  In Massachusetts my house is on  a  hill several hundred feet high. One of my favorite rides goes past a ski area that is over 1000 ft. higher than my house. My car was having difficulty making it up the hills.  I checked the fluid drive and found I had to put 2 qts in it.  It only holds 6qts. my car has run great since.  I check the level every year and have only added a few ounces since then.  

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I'd rather taking a beating than have Strombergs CD series carbs....well I guess the earlier one pre-emission were not as bad...still prefer a good set of SU's or Hitachi in single barrel side drafts...I built a set of CD 150's bit back...kits are still reasonable in price so that is a plus.

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1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I'd rather taking a beating than have Strombergs CD series carbs....well I guess the earlier one pre-emission were not as bad...still prefer a good set of SU's or Hitachi in single barrel side drafts...I built a set of CD 150's bit back...kits are still reasonable in price so that is a plus.

 

The education curve has been steep, only been working with them for a couple days. I'm coming in behind a mechanic who installed a rebuild kit but was sloppy with reassembly. They're behaving pretty nicely but don't return to idle quite as quickly as I like. Engine has been de-smogged...not sure how happy these carbs will be without all the plumbing.

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even with a sync tool I have found the Stromberg duals to be troublesome.  I wish you success....being non emissions will probably be an asset.  Do you own this TR6 now or are you helping a bud?  The TR6 is a classic vehicle that has a timeless style to it.  Many folks just don't know the magic of the LBCs.  

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   Replying to Noah H, your clutch pedal free play should be less than what it is. It’s just to keep the clutch fork off the throw out bearing. That won’t fix your problem but I thought I’d mention it. The fluid drives had a different carb with electric’s added and a dash pot to slow deceleration. I googled fluid drive carburetors and a thread from this forum in 2016 came up. It seems a BXVD-3 would be the correct carb. 

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