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Hard Brake Line


fmfarrisjr

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I can't speak about where to source pre-made brake lines for these old cars. I can tell you that it is likely that if you were to pay someone to replace these lines I would wager, they would build the lines themselves there in their shop. This is what I did, at home in my garage. I bought the steel lines and and decent double flaring tool and made my own. Not sure if you have the desire, space, or tools to do this. Just passing along that this is how some of us do this. A few flubbed up ends, yes. A few skills to be learned yes. But it's good cheap, rewarding fun.

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There are kits available for most cars.  But fabricating them isn't hard.  You can buy all the parts at most local stores.  I would recommend the nickle/iron/copper rather that plain steel.  Easier to cut, flare and bend as well as rust-free.

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are you asking about the emergency brake line because that is a handbrake steel braided line that you pull via the use of a handle or are you talking about the acctualy fluid brake lines that go to each wheel cylinder?

 

Rich Desoto1939@aol.com

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most premade line kits are rolled for shipping after being made and you will need to straighten them prior to install...so the better advice is to buy your copper nickel tubing and build your own...as for the flaring kits, places like Advance Auto has loaner tool kits..pay the cost for the tool as a deposit, use the tool, return and get your money back..win win process.  It is not at all a hard process....you should find it a rewarding experience.   As you were asking where to find the kit I assume you were out to change the lines yourself...good luck with the project.

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I replaced all the brake and fuel hard lines in my P15 using already-flared lengths of line from the local auto parts stores. The lines are available in many different lengths, just use a coupler between lines to get the combination of lengths you need.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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While buying a roll of tubing and the fittings to make your own is a good option it may not be for everyone. Most auto parts stores have bendable lines in various lengths with end fittings already in place. They also have unions and adapters for various needs. Mixing and matching tubing lengths along with some creative routing should get you pretty close. 

 

EDIT

Didn't see Sam's post or we posted at the same time.. Sorry for duplication.

Edited by MackTheFinger
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I tried to make some flair joints, but was not confidant that I had done a good enough job. So, like Sam, I bought some pre-made tubing in a couple of lengths and replaced my brake lines that way.  It has been ten years and all is well.

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1 minute ago, busycoupe said:

I tried to make some flair joints, but was not confidant that I had done a good enough job. So, like Sam, I bought some pre-made tubing in a couple of lengths and replaced my brake lines that way.  It has been ten years and all is well.

 

the store bought length is an ideal way to go for the DIY but at a bit more of a cost over a tube and flaring kit but a remarkable saving over buying custom lines...

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my last two brake upgrades/renew of tubes were done with the new copper nickel and it is almost idiot proof for working with....the key to this as in all tubing is the square cut and chamfer being done proper for the double flare...not at all hard but a step one must do correctly for repeated successful flares....do recommend that you have a tubing cutter for use.  

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Chirping back in to say this tool was far superior than the older clamp-style. I have used both. This tool here was a breeze. Factory looking flares every time. I'm glad I bought this tool. I was getting pretty frustrated with the older tool that I was using.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cal-Van-Master-In-Line-Double-Bubble-Flaring-Tool-Set-w-Tube-Cutter-USA-Made/141938469377?epid=1238088211&hash=item210c312a01:g:w~wAAOSwwpdW8yYk

 

 

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I will BOLO for one of those at the local swap meet given we ever get to get out in public again.....thanks...I take it the half dies screw into the hex handle that is NOT the burring tool....and you unscrew and the inner ID of that handle accommodates line sizes and backing nuts are behind the handle when flaring.

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