Richard Cope Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Recently put a 12 volt pusher fan in my 39 Ply, if it wasn't for the sound of the fan wouldn't know it was there. It is a single fan and convers the radiator from side to side. Only intend on using when stuck in traffic and the temperature is in the high 80s, using a generator don't want to push the limits, Uoptimum battery, 165 degree thermostat & Evans waterless antifreeze. Since installation, have used it a few times when the outside temp is in the high 80s and within a few minutes will lower the temperature 5 degrees or more. The markings on the 39 gauge are spaces such that takes some estimating. On another note I rarely use the heater, was thinking that if the heater hose was disconnected and connected to the back of the head the engine would get better circulation. The temperature gauge may read higher, as this would be circulating water not far from the temperature sensor , however may be a more accurate measurement. I could meter the flow with the heater valve if needed. Any thoughts, just seems like the engine has better circulation in the winter when the heater is used than in the summer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 3 minutes ago, kencombs said: Just a note about flushes. be absolutely sure whatever you use is safe for your aluminum radiator. For instance strong bases will dissolve it quickly. Some acids also. For instance CLR is labeled as not for use on aluminum. Sorry guys. i meant this action for the original radiators only. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 I've used vinegar instead of CLR for decent results. No clue on it's effects on aluminum, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Sniper said: I've used vinegar instead of CLR for decent results. No clue on it's effects on aluminum, though. Thanks Sniper. I forgot all about vinegar. I only used the CLR because I didn't even think of or remember about vinegar. I'll edit my post. What do you guys think of using vinegar as full system flush for an original system? Brass rad, iron engine and heads. 2 gallons vinegar and 1 gallon of water, run for 10 to 20 minutes rest for 10 and run again then drain and flush. Joe Lee Edited July 13, 2020 by soth122003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 OP. You have a fresh motor, fresh pressurized radiator, fresh 180 thermostat, fresh antifreeze, no boil over even in extended traffic and heatwaves, and you are properly pulling temperature readings from the hottest part of the block. Politely then....stop looking for something to fix, it's working like all modern cars, as designed for a pressurized system with a hot thermostat. Just enjoy your ride. Ps, do some technical reading, short of hi speeds that cause cavitation in the pump (and attendant loss of water flow) one cant move the water too fast thru the radiator. That's a myth. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 The parts store 180F types usually open at 190-195F. Before installing any thermostat I always check the opening heating the stat in a pot of water on the stove and an accurate thermometer, stirring constantly, heating slowly. You might find that a parts store 160 stat will open closer to 180. ...If you want a true opening at 180 F - use a robertshaw style stat from a muscle era mopar v8, yes they fit and work fine on my 52. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 23 hours ago, soth122003 said: Thanks Sniper. I forgot all about vinegar. I only used the CLR because I didn't even think of or remember about vinegar. I'll edit my post. What do you guys think of using vinegar as full system flush for an original system? Brass rad, iron engine and heads. 2 gallons vinegar and 1 gallon of water, run for 10 to 20 minutes rest for 10 and run again then drain and flush. Joe Lee I've used vinegar as you described, almost. drained rad and block, filled with straight vinegar and ran until warm. Let stand overnight then drained and flushed. Even pulled some of the core plugs and temp sender along with thermostat housing and flushed . Even used a pressure washer where it would fit. Filled with water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then finally the final coolant. This was is a 4 cyl diesel truck and got a ton of stuff out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Ken, That's pretty much how I did it too Though I didn't pull any core plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Sharps40, you’re right. I’m worried about nothing. I’m just going to drive the wheels off it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Nothing wrong with watching your gauges, especially if they are accurate. But, good that you are gonna get her rolling for enjoyment. She'll be happier and last longer running hotter than 160 to 180. Besides, you'll actually have heat and defrost in the winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, Sharps40 said: Nothing wrong with watching your gauges, especially if they are accurate. But, good that you are gonna get her rolling for enjoyment. She'll be happier and last longer running hotter than 160 to 180. Besides, you'll actually have heat and defrost in the winter! I was working on my Grandson's '10 Dodge Journey today. Hooked up my code reader which supports live data and drove it for a few miles. Once up to temp and settled in, 214-218 range, moving, just one or two hotter idling. And the inards of newer engines like that are good for at least 200k, most more Can't say that for sensors, actuators and such though! Edited July 16, 2020 by kencombs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 Engines today are machined with a precision they couldn't even dream of when our flatties were made. Not to mention substantial improvements in materials since then. Most engines today use moly rings, we had cast iron, which will eat a bore like the Cookie Monster goes after Chips Ahoy. three thing rings versus four fat ones don't help. Better valve train oiling and cooling. More precise fuel control and delivery, the list goes on. While we can do things to ameliorate some of the issues, assuming money is no object, there are things we can't address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 14 hours ago, Sniper said: Engines today are machined with a precision they couldn't even dream of when our flatties were made. Not to mention substantial improvements in materials since then. Most engines today use moly rings, we had cast iron, which will eat a bore like the Cookie Monster goes after Chips Ahoy. three thing rings versus four fat ones don't help. Better valve train oiling and cooling. More precise fuel control and delivery, the list goes on. While we can do things to ameliorate some of the issues, assuming money is no object, there are things we can't address. Don't forget modern engines have: Much lighter rotating mass (allows thinner oil) Low tension rings 16-20 lbs pressure in the cooling system which substantially raises the boiling point. With a 50/50 mix of coolant at seal level it boils at 226 degrees with 0 psi and 275 degrees at 20 lbs pressure. Emission requirements that necessitate hotter running engines Finally @Sharps40 My heater / defroster will fry eggs at 170 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 (edited) Glad yer happy with eggs.... Edited July 16, 2020 by Sharps40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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