Doug&Deb Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 I’m thinking about adding an auxiliary cooling fan to my 52 Coronet. Anyone using one and any recommendations for a brand? I’d probably hook mine up with a toggle switch under the dash to use as needed. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 (edited) Not to be any more annoying than usual but why do you need an auxiliary fan? Is the rest of your cooling system up to snuff? I ask because I have driven my 52 in 90+ and stop n go traffic and never had the gauge go over half way. Coolant full, radiator clean inside and out, distribution tube in good shape? These are all things that affect cooling. Just wondering. Edited July 11, 2020 by plymouthcranbrook 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49WINDS Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 I've actually been thinking about either switching to an electric fan or possibly a flex-a-lite fan in my 49. I flushed quite a bit of sediment out of the block when I first got it, and it now will easily stay at or under 180 degrees while driving. The only time I had it start climbing was while sitting in a long drive-through line on a hot day. The only factor I'm not sure of is the condition of the water distribution tube since I haven't had the motor apart enough to tell. I'm curious if the stock fan is good enough if everything else is in good working order or if changing it out might still be the better option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Sounds more like an issue of sediment or a partially blocked radiator to me. Do you have access to a laser thermometer to check the difference from top to bottom on the radiator? I imagine 6 volt electric fans are available but have never seen one used on a stock setup. Maybe a multi blade fan would help if everything else is good. I did a quick search just now and found a company called Speedway that sells a 6 volt electric fan if you do decide to get one. Several listings for multi blades as well. Hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 If you go with a 6v fan you need to consider upgrading to an alternator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Engine was rebuilt 4000 miles ago. Aluminum radiator. Distribution tube is good and block is clean. It normally runs at 190 . I have a Stewart Warner gauge under the dash. It’s never overheated on me. I’m probably just being paranoid. Sometimes at a stop the temperature climbs to 200-210. Again no overheating. With the low idle I thought I’d give the fan some assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 The link to the 6v fan mentioned above is here https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-6-Volt-Electric-Cooling-Fan,56152.html?sku=910151-16 Three sizes available, but no mention of CFM. A fan shroud would likely cure your concerns. Many options here, but some of the you cut the hole, universal fit plastic ones look promising. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/cooling-fan-shrouds~14-4-132-10707 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Thanks everyone, I’m considering a shroud also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49WINDS Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 My car only has the 4-blade fan, although I see the 6-blade fan on the speedwaymotors website for a decent price. I liked the idea of a flex-a-lite fan but I was a little concerned that the blades may stick too far back and hit the belt at low speeds. Has anyone had any experience in putting one of these fans on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 A friend tried out a 6 blade fan on his 37 Plymouth. While it moved lots of air he removed the next day. Made so much noise he could not even hear the motor running especially t speed. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49WINDS Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Good to know the added noise was too much. Kind of why i'm still leaning towards something like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 12 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: Engine was rebuilt 4000 miles ago. Aluminum radiator. Distribution tube is good and block is clean. It normally runs at 190 . I have a Stewart Warner gauge under the dash. It’s never overheated on me. I’m probably just being paranoid. Sometimes at a stop the temperature climbs to 200-210. Again no overheating. With the low idle I thought I’d give the fan some assistance. That’s too hot for a fresh engine and cooling system. What thermostat is in it? Does it cool down if you raise the idle a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 180 thermostat. Yes it cools down once the revs are up. My last few drives have been after idling for extended periods while checking timing and adjusting the carb. Plus the temperature was in the mid 90’s. The car always runs at 190 . Since the temperature is taken at the rear of the engine that seems right for a 180 thermostat. Maybe I’m missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 That cycle of heating when idling then cooling down with more rpm is obviously telling you that more airflow is needed. Your thinking is correct. Some of those mechanical flex fan replacements don't work correctly. Either flatten out too soon or not at all. More fixed blades would work, but at the expense of noise and adding power draw. My plan for my pickup is two electric fans, one high and one low on opposite corners of the radiator. Each will be controlled by it's own thermostatic switch so one can run until the second is needed. Now, being a cheapskate, mine will be salvage yard finds in a custom (read home) built mount/baffle. Already have the fans. Besides being cheap, I've found that using factory installed parts usually gets you better quality than the aftermarket. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: 180 thermostat. Yes it cools down once the revs are up. My last few drives have been after idling for extended periods while checking timing and adjusting the carb. Plus the temperature was in the mid 90’s. The car always runs at 190 . Since the temperature is taken at the rear of the engine that seems right for a 180 thermostat. Maybe I’m missing something? Yes, clearly an airflow issue. If you're 12v I would dump the engine fan and run a good electric fan. If you're still 6v, finding an electric fan with enough CFM may be a challenge... I never use old engine fans for safety reasons, they all go in the trash. I believe 52 uses a pressurized system so a 180 thermostat will be fine. If it is non pressurized I would use a 160. Edited July 13, 2020 by Adam H P15 D30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derbydad276 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 the heavy steel radiator fans use a tremendous amount of power ... I remember reading about the fan on Corvairs having about 15-20 HP parasitic draw if your generator/ alternator is up to date I would go electric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Back before glycol was used for coolant they used to use alcohol as an antifreeze. The lower temp thermostat was used to limit the loss of alcohol due to evaporation. http://www.crankshift.com/antifreeze/ I wouldn't run a 160 with glycol these days. But it's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 I also recommend a 180 minimum and to ensure when running the pup you obtain and sustain operating temps for a period to adequately evaporate the condensates from the block...technology moves ahead and if some cases renders the old stats obsolete... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 You said you put in an aluminum radiator. What kind did you put in? Reason I ask is that the flow rate thru the rad might be to fast. (IMHO) Thus not allowing the coolant to bleed off the heat properly. Since I live in Florida, my car has a stock rad, straight water and runs at 170 all day long. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 19 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: I also recommend a 180 minimum and to ensure when running the pup you obtain and sustain operating temps for a period to adequately evaporate the condensates from the block...technology moves ahead and if some cases renders the old stats obsolete... I've tried both 160 and 180 degree thermostats and my oil temps in the pan were within 5 degrees. Ambient temps on both days were also within 5 degrees, same freeway drive... Either way mine runs at 170 - 185 degrees with a 160 thermostat and a 185 degree fan switch installed at the rear of the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 The engine rebuilders bought the rad because of the price. It was less than the cost of refurbing the original rad. You may be on to something about the flow being fast. As long as I’m not overheating I’m going to keep an eye on it and see what happens. I may have the original rad cleaned out and re-install it. Lots to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 if you are running the correct opening size thermostat.....then the flow rate is as it should be...the absence of a thermostat and yes...circulation could be an issue where first the coolant is not absorbing the heat from the block and second it is moving through the radiator to fast to remove the heat....the thermostat controls this exchange rate..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: I may have the original rad cleaned out and re-install it. Lots to think about. If your original rad is in fairly good shape, this is how I did mine on the recommendation of an old timer. 1. Plug the rad and fill with a dawn dish detergent and water solution and let soak for a day or two. Flush with warm water and perform the flow check. If good then install and test. If not, you can try step 2. If there is evidence of heavy calcium or lime deposits I would try CLR. If not use vinegar. This one cleaned mine out great. Since CLR is great for the lime and calcium build up from hard water and is fairly mild. DO NOT use anything stronger than CLR (like muratic acid) as it will eat the metal of the rad. 2. Plug the rad and fill with 1 gallon of CLR or vinegar (a buck a quart CLR or a buck a half gallon of vinegar at the Dollar General) and top off with water. Lay the rad face down for 15 minutes. Flip over face up for 15 minutes. Stand in the upright position for 15 min. Stand on left side for 15 minutes. stand upside down for 15 min. Stand on right side for 15 min. Drain and flush a few times with warm water. Perform flow check and install and test. If after any of these tests the rad leaks, a good rad shop should be able to solder the leaks, or you can do it yourself if you feel comfortable with doing so. I believe it was after 1954 they went to pressurized systems, at least on the Plymouths anyway. Anywho that is my 2 cents worth. Take as a suggestion and not gospel. It worked for me. Joe Lee Edited July 13, 2020 by soth122003 verify for the original rad not aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Just a note about flushes. be absolutely sure whatever you use is safe for your aluminum radiator. For instance strong bases will dissolve it quickly. Some acids also. For instance CLR is labeled as not for use on aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 10 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: 180 thermostat. Yes it cools down once the revs are up. My last few drives have been after idling for extended periods while checking timing and adjusting the carb. Plus the temperature was in the mid 90’s. The car always runs at 190 . Since the temperature is taken at the rear of the engine that seems right for a 180 thermostat. Just read the thermostat section in the repair manual. The 180 t stat starts to open at 180 and is fully open at 195-200. So your system maybe working right. The 180 t stat was mainly for very cold climates to help the hot water type heaters in the winter. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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