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D34 stock Flathead fouling plugs


Noah H

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So I found another bolt hiding under the distributer. And got some more slack to retard it Enough to get the marks dead on (pointer at 0) and WOW what a difference. Throttle response is faster and power is restored to a point where it pushes me back into the seat. Can timing cause sooty plugs? There is still a stumble as you slowly increase engine rpms abs the stumble stays constant. But when you put the foot down there is 0 hesitation. Starting to see light at the end of the the tunnel 

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35 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

 

Got a question, is the blue mark 10 degrees advanced?  I was under the impression  it's 10 degrees retarded?  Someone clear it up for me, please.

Blue mark is when I advanced. red marks we as much as I could get it turned retarded. 

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Yes get you engine idliong to as close to as possible to Top Dead Center, Your Blue Line in your picture.  So put white chalk mark on this line so that when your timing light comes on you can see if the white mark is at TDC or if it is before or after the mark on the vibration dampener.

Sometime these engine run better retarded and or advanced because of engine wear over the years.  Ge the engine to idle smoothly at first.  Then you can try to see how the engine sounds when reving the engine.  Remember you are working with an engine that is about 70 years old unless it was rebuild at some point but you would still have some play.

 

Also check that the breaker plate is not loose in the distrbuter it could be worn out and is  floating or moving in the assembly. If this is the pbm then get a NOS breaker plate assembly.

 

I would need to know the distributor model number to tell you the correct breaker plate assembly so the dizzy is either kw 

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OK so now you have been able to get the car engine timed to TDC.  OK so now you can fine adjust the dizzy  by rotating it to find the sweet spot for your engine. It will be a trail and error but after you get the sweet spot then  put that info on a white board in your garage to note the number on the vibration dampener.

 

You have taken the first step to getting to know your car and engine and that is a real plus for you.  We all have gone through this learning curve welcome to the club of hard knocks but this will stick with you for a long time. Persistence will always payoff.  Now get to know what dizzy model you have in the car because the points, condensot roto, cap and breaker plate are all determined by the model number on the plate on the body of the dizzy.

 

Let me know what is stamped on the plate:

 

IGS-4207B-1

IAT-4003

IAT-4011

I have an autolite catalog to tell you about the replacement parts for your car.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

 

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3 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:

OK so now you have been able to get the car engine timed to TDC.  OK so now you can fine adjust the dizzy  by rotating it to find the sweet spot for your engine. It will be a trail and error but after you get the sweet spot then  put that info on a white board in your garage to note the number on the vibration dampener.

 

You have taken the first step to getting to know your car and engine and that is a real plus for you.  We all have gone through this learning curve welcome to the club of hard knocks but this will stick with you for a long time. Persistence will always payoff.  Now get to know what dizzy model you have in the car because the points, condensot roto, cap and breaker plate are all determined by the model number on the plate on the body of the dizzy.

 

Let me know what is stamped on the plate:

 

IGS-4207B-1

IAT-4003

IAT-4011

I have an autolite catalog to tell you about the replacement parts for your car.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

 

Thanks Rich, I’ll get those numbers too you and save your email. The cars engine was overhauled (not bored by us) by my grandfather and I. And I bought it when I was 15. 

0526D355-5B36-4DBB-B03A-10DD93D4550D.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

I sounds like your engine timing is very much retarded now, but the good news is the timing advance system is working since the timing advances as you increase rpm. If your engine timing is indeed retarded now.....be prepared for a pleasant surprise on your first drive after you get the timing correct.  :)

 

1 hour ago, Noah H said:

So I found another bolt hiding under the distributer. And got some more slack to retard it Enough to get the marks dead on (pointer at 0) and WOW what a difference. Throttle response is faster and power is restored to a point where it pushes me back into the seat. Can timing cause sooty plugs? There is still a stumble as you slowly increase engine rpms abs the stumble stays constant. But when you put the foot down there is 0 hesitation. Starting to see light at the end of the the tunnel 

 

Excellent! I was sure you would like the improvement once the timing was reset.  ?

 

I suspect your plugs will clear up pretty quickly because your engine will now have higher combustion temps with proper timing. You can continue using them as long as they don't mis-fire. If the plugs continue to look sooty they'll be telling you the mixture is too rich and you can start trouble shooting the carb.....or they are sooted up past the point of return. I would put in a new set if the budget allows so you can reset everything back to where it should be. Would also make it easier to troubleshoot a potential mixture issue if you start with clean plugs.

 

You have added something valuable to your skill set toolbox today. Keep tinkering, and don't hesitate to ask questions. Your grandfather would be proud of you.  ?

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

 

Got a question, is the blue mark 10 degrees advanced?  I was under the impression  it's 10 degrees retarded?  Someone clear it up for me, please.

 

 

Advanced. When you face the front of the engine it is rotating clockwise. The blue line (10*) arrives at the pointer before the 0 line.

 

A630259A-A382-441D-9321-923D5C316A52.jpeg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Getting close! 
with the ethanol enhanced fuel, in theory you need a richer mixture. 
so the jet being drilled out may help some. With timing as described at the marks as mentioned at idle you may have found the problem.  
 

if loosening the 2 bolts wont give you enough timing advance, the next move would be to move plug wires on cap. Lets not get into that unless that is the only option. 

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