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Larkin.19

Brake drum stuck

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Hey guys! I tried using a drum puller but it was too small. I need to pull my drum cover off in order to replace my brake cylinder. Any tips? Thanks!

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next tip...tell folks what you have done or tried....cut down on useless stuff already done/tried...starting out with is this front or rear.....if rear...not uncommon....these get stuck on there pretty good...what length cheater bar and how much grunt has gone into this...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams

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Did the drum puller But it was one from orielly’s. Looking for a lug mounted drum puller, released the adjusters, and used heat to loosen it. No movement. 

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Or this type of brake drum puller...............you could try loosening the centre axle nut 1-2 threads, no more then gently take the car if driveable out for a VERY short drive or even up & down the driveway swerving so that some sort of leverage is put on the drum...............andyd

P1000766 (800x600).jpg

Edited by Andydodge

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what I do is move the puller to a different set of lug bolts and try again.just when you think you have whacked it as much as you can or should, whack it some more. you can also leave it on overnite while it is pulling.leave the axle nut on slightly because if it lets go the tool and drum will take off. I have heard heat is no good for the seals in there. driving seems to work for many people, but I have never had to do that. also, when putting the drum back on I have always put grease on the taper. that is not the correct thing to do as you want a friction fit on the taper. keep at it. it will come off. quality puller is needed.    dennis  

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If you have the adjusters fully backed off and it still won't come off (and you are using the correct puller) then remove the two nuts holding the major adjusters. Then tap in the adjuster bolts and the shoes will come loose pulling away from the drum. 

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18 hours ago, Larkin.19 said:

Hey guys! I tried using a drum puller but it was too small. I need to pull my drum cover off in order to replace my brake cylinder. Any tips? Thanks!

Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and buy the right tool. These old drums are on tapered axels ... Even with the right tool, sometimes you may need to apply pressure to them then walk away and come back and use a hammer and apply more pressure. ... There is old stories where a guy would loosen the drum/axle nut, then drive in circles for a hour in a vacant field until they heard a loud pop where the drum popped loose.  They were never easy to remove, even when new. While the driver was going in circles to get the drum loose, his buddy would be leaned over the fender adjusting the valves.

 

Myth or fact, I dunno. You need a proper drum puller for the older cars, I bought mine off of ebay a month or so ago, not used it yet but is right tool for the job.

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Does the car drive???  Pull the cotter pin, loosen the axle nut 3 or so threads, put the cover pin back in. Take it out and drive 10 to 15 mph alternating turns like a race driver heating their tire. When you hear a pop drive home and proceed with your repair.  Yes it is scary to contemplate but nothing will fall off.

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Buy or borrow the largest bolt on puller you can find..........also suggest once its off to check the key on the shaft, think its either 1/4 or 5/16th and replace it with a nice new piece.......key shaft is usually sold by the foot length and very cheap.............andyd

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I used this puller.  It has a plate that attaches to all 5 lug bolts.  Worked like a charm, but you have to keep the spindle nut on or the drum will jump out at you when it finally lets go.

 

image.png.6d56fddaf9ebb1bfb2e15054c25942be.png

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I know it's not exactly the correct tool, but I rented this front wheel drive hub puller from O'Reilly's and used it with my 1/2" air impact gun. It was a little too small to fit entirely over the raised portion of the drum, but it still matched the bolt pattern just fine. Even with an air impact it still took quite a bit of hammering away to break loose, and like so many other have mentioned before though-be sure you leave the axle nut on by a few threads at least. When that drum finally breaks loose it will jump quite a bit and give you a scare if you're not expecting it.

 

Front Wheel Drive Hub Puller

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.....

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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Tapers can really hold things together...except when they don't.

Driving around (slowly) with the axle nut loose will certainly work (don't ask me how I know).

If you do get a good puller (and the eBay one qualifies) turn the axle nut around and screw it back on even with the end.

The idea being that it gives the thread a little support and the end is less likely to mushroom, which could mess up your whole day.

The bar that fits on the end of the puller is where you tap it with a really big hammer (do not use a little one. It has to be heavy)

It has two effects, first it tightens the screw next a side tap tends to break loose a taper.

You can tap the end of the screw as well.

You might need all these tricks to get them off but they do come off, eventually.

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Stay at it, it will eventually come off.  From my experience when it does, you will hear it.

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10 hours ago, Loren said:

If you do get a good puller (and the eBay one qualifies) turn the axle nut around and screw it back on even with the end.

The idea being that it gives the thread a little support and the end is less likely to mushroom, which could mess up your whole day.

The bar that fits on the end of the puller is where you tap it with a really big hammer (do not use a little one. It has to be heavy)

This thread gave me the energy needed to pull out the new puller I bought off ebay several weeks ago.

I just wanted to add a few observations now that I have pulled 1 drum and am a expert  :P

 

Happy with the tool, it took a couple min, I used a 3# sledge, I did not swing it hard, just let the tool do the work.

 

Happy with the tool, bought it off ebay for $85-$90 plus shipping, Think it cost me $110 total. Is a Napa tool with a Napa part # ... no idea why was sold on ebay.

 

Almost awkward like the tool is to big for the job, impossible I know,  But if I had a 6 lug or 8 lug, or Ford 5 on 5.5 it would fit better. I had to leave my lug studs 1/4" loose to get alignment. I would prefer to snug them down.

 

The most important thing I have to offer, stand to the side even when the axle nut is still on, when mine popped loose, the T handle flew off and hit the house. Would have been my ribs if standing/sitting in front of it.

Because of the tight space I was sitting on the side of the tire and was spared.   It does come loose with a bang!

 

 

 

 

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Here's what worked for me, I'd brought a used five leg puller that had no dogbone so had to use leverage rather than the BFH. Came off with quite a pop. 

 

gallery_5770_178_462243.jpggallery_5770_178_310089.jpg

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On 7/1/2020 at 11:52 AM, 61farnham said:

Here's what worked for me, I'd brought a used five leg puller that had no dogbone so had to use leverage rather than the BFH. Came off with quite a pop. 

 

gallery_5770_178_462243.jpggallery_5770_178_310089.jpg

wow.  that's a breaker bar

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