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53 Truck-O-Matic

Rear Wheel Cylinders for 53 B4B

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I have managed to strip the threads on my lower left rear wheel cylinder by over tightening the brake line fitting. (Or- the threads were just too old.) In searching for replacement wheel cylinders, I don't see any that look like mine. Roberts, VPW, all the usual suspects. I'm figuring on replacing all four rear ones.

Here are pics of mine.

Any thoughts?

 

 

 

IMG_9775.jpg

IMG_9777.jpg

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Years ago I got mine at Napa, but I’m not seeing them listed on napaonline now. I’ve also seen them on Rockauto, but I can’t seem to find them now. However, DCM Classics does show them. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/384-br-261-48-wheel-cylinders-half-size.html

 

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I looked in my various Brake catalogs and I can not find any reference to the dodge truck B4B there are other letters but not the B4B.  Are you sure it is a B4B

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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11 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

I looked in my various Brake catalogs and I can not find any reference to the dodge truck B4B there are other letters but not the B4B.  Are you sure it is a B4B

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes, B4B is a valid model ID for a B-series truck built in 1953. Some catalogs may just show B4, or B-4 and then reference "1/2 ton" in stead of the second "B". 

Edited by Merle Coggins

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You might also want to replace the inter-connecting steel brake line tubes.

They are compromised.

The lines..one or both have rubbed on the drum hubs it looks like.

As for the wheel cylinders...are they different than passenger cars?

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Some day I will get to my rear brakes ....😟 I am under the impression to keep as much original as I can, meaning I would rebuild the existing wheel cylinders simply because they are made of better quality then what is available today.

Just saying, I might try to save and rebuild the other 3 ... at least keep them and possibly rebuild them and set on a shelf in case you have issues with the new ones.

 

Are you sure it is the cylinder threads that stripped out, and not the brake line threads? Could be either, seems to me the steel line would be weaker then the wheel cylinder.

 

When I rebuilt my front brakes, I did replace the front wheel cylinders using DCM for supplier. Mine had a step bore and I did not feel comfortable honing and cleaning them. Never worked on them before ... But master cylinder or rear wheel cylinders with a straight bore, if not pitted beyond repair, are pretty simple.

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here is the brake cylinder info from my EIS Brake catalog for the B4B:

 

Front right  EQ6354

Front Left EW6353

Right rear  Upper EW 10581  Lower EW10583

Left rear  Upper EW10580  lower EW10582

 

Looked at the HAgen link and the numbers that he lists the wheel cylinders are the specific number for each cylinder that is used across the industry so he matches up with my numbers from my EIS brake catalog.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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Thanks for the many replies and suggestions! I have ordered the set from DCM, which appear the same as the Hagen (another good resource).

We shall see. The lines between the cylinders appear to be ok, but I will check them carefully. Yes, I am sure it's the cylinder threads that failed. The rears were rebuilt

many years ago using the old housings, and they have just reached their end.

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57 minutes ago, 53 Truck-O-Matic said:

I am sure it's the cylinder threads that failed. The rears were rebuilt

many years ago using the old housings, and they have just reached their end.

Word for word, sounds like something I told my wife 30 years ago ... she still never lets me forget that today!

 

Sounds like you have it under control.

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On 6/25/2020 at 11:29 AM, Dodgeb4ya said:

You might also want to replace the inter-connecting steel brake line tubes.

They are compromised.

The lines..one or both have rubbed on the drum hubs it looks like.

As for the wheel cylinders...are they different than passenger cars?

I see what you mean. (pic attached). Tough call, you're probably right.......

IMG_9827.jpg

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I have to laugh at my post above .... just rebuild what ya got.

Started working on mine today, first wheel cylinder out of 4 ... Aluminum pistons are froze to the cylinder walls.

I got online and ordered a new set from DCM

 

I have little hope of rebuilding them here in my garage, I wont throw them away ... maybe someday ????

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BRAKES and BLEEDING - Now that the new cylinders are installed and everything's back together, (I hope!), time to bleed.

My question is, anyone have experience good or bad with pressure tank method of bleeding??     Bought a hardware store pump tank, about to try it.

 

New Unrelated DRIVE SHAFT problem. I seem to have lost the little brackets that hold the rear U Joints to the Differential. (Yeah, " how could you do that??  I took all that apart a long time ago, but I'm mighty surprised to find them missing!)

I don't see a source for them anywhere. (photos attached.) ALSO, it's been so long since I removed the Drive shaft, I've forgotten how one re-installs it, that is, how do you make room do get the rear coupling reattached?

shaft and diff lineup  IMG_9899.jpg

coupling w pin  IMG_9898.jpg

coupling w pin   2 IMG_9897.jpg

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I found that pressure bleeding is best done between 15-20 psig...below doesn't provide enough oomph to force the air bubbles out, above that seems like overkill that could damage the weakest component in the circuit...

 

Something seems off on your u-joint setup, like the u-joint doesn't match the pinion flange width or cup seat radius...my B-4-B-116 has a u-joint cross length of under 3-1/2" and a cup diameter over 7/8"...

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Thanks for the pressure bleed info. I'm going to try it.

I don't know quite how you detected the mis-fit trouble with the U joint, but I investigated, and you may be right, though it's a very small difference if it's too big. I would like to try and see if it fits, but I am drawing a blank on how to for the drive shaft back in there.

I'm willing to loosen the rear axle to do it, but I can't believe that's the proper way. It seems like you're supposed to collapse the drive shaft all the way, then expand it to fit the u joint together. But I've got it collapsed all the way, (I think- see photo with arrow at engine end), and as the pictures show, it won't go.

What am I missing here? 

FIT -IMG_9903.jpg

FIT -IMG_9902.jpg

FIT -IMG_9905.jpg

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   On a B2B frame that I have, the center bolt on the springs to the front spring is 26 1/2” and 26” from center bolt to the rear. You might have to turn your your springs around for proper clearance. 

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