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Rear Wheel Cylinders for 53 B4B


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Still curious about that u-joint part #...the bearing caps are supposed to fit tight against the pinion yoke, and the u-bolt keeps the caps from popping out, so that driveshaft torque is transferred through the u-joint into the pinion yoke...that last pic kinda looks like the bearing cap OD and the yoke bore are not within clearance specs, but maybe it's just the shadowing of the lights...

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11 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Still curious about that u-joint part #...the bearing caps are supposed to fit tight against the pinion yoke, and the u-bolt keeps the caps from popping out, so that driveshaft torque is transferred through the u-joint into the pinion yoke...that last pic kinda looks like the bearing cap OD and the yoke bore are not within clearance specs, but maybe it's just the shadowing of the lights...

 

I was thinking the same thing. It doesn't look like the bearing caps fit into the yolk right. I questioned that u-joint earlier too, as it has internal retainer clips on those caps and external clips on the other caps. It seems to be a conversion type u-joint when it wouldn't need to be. 

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You may be right about the fit. The numbers visible are   

429    EGI (or ESI, I don't think that's a 1), and USA P3. 

The U joints were replaced back in California (2009),  by a shop that did some brake work (some of which I have just re-done!) , and there were no part numbers on the receipt. I may have picked the wrong shop. I assume the front and back U joints are the same, but I haven't confirmed that yet. And I assume they are supposed to be? I have no reason to believe the yoke is incorrect, having bought the truck in 1974.

And here's another pic before I added the brackets, When I was re-connecting, I did feel the U Joints were not just happily sliding in to the yoke.

 

 

U Joint stamp S or G   copy.jpg

IMG_9939 sml .jpg

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4 hours ago, 53 Truck-O-Matic said:

...

IMG_9939 sml .jpg

 

I don't have a picture handy to illustrate my concerns, but I see 2 problems here.  The bearing cap should seat firmly to the yoke bore with a tight fight, practically no clearance.  The width of the u-joint appears correct in the driveshaft yoke (tho that one snap ring isn't fully seated), but the width appears a little off in the pinion yoke, as the bearing cap should fit tightly against the inside of the yoke tab, not on top of it.

 

The Precision 369 specs are listed in that link to verify against the parts you have.  The front and rear u-joints should be identical on the stock driveline setup...a word of caution is to verify part specifications as I have acquired mis-boxed u-joints in the past, which is a whole other headache...

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The face of the cap, should be inside the tang on the yoke. This photo shows it sitting on top of the tang. This is wrong.

 

That tang is there to hold the cap on the ujoint .... That cap needs to sit flush in the saddle of the yoke .... you are sitting on top of the tang and shows ujoint is to wide.

 

Possible you may be able to change the caps for something narrower ... I have no clue.

The ujoint fits the drive line, but does not fit the yoke.

 

My daily driver 91 chevy has a 2004 or newer rearend installed while a stock 1991 drive line. I have to buy a ujoint for both years, take 2 caps from one and install on the other ... and it is fine ... but difference is diameter, height of the caps ... not the width of the ujoint.

 

But what you show will not work as is.

 

 

1135353639_IMG_9939sml.jpg.e3abe69cf499ad3f8cf35f0c13f795e7.jpg

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Well, if I'd read Merle's post from last Friday more carefully,

 

           "(Also, looking at your u-joint it seems to be a combo unit with external circlips on one half and internal circlips on the other half. You’ll need to remove                    those internal clips to get it set into the drive yolk" )

...which he then repeated yesterday!!

But it took me more blundering around in the dark to realize those retaining clips were the problem!  Just removed them, and now the U Joint fits the yoke POIFECT! I had to take the Yoke off the differential to see what was really going on, and that made me a little nervous, visions of having to reassemble a differential etc! I also cleaned up a couple of nicks and bumps in the cradle of the yoke which couldn't have helped.

 

Drive shaft solved! Now back to bleeding the brakes, which I'm trying to do with the aid of a pressure tank, ie, homemade from a garden sprayer. The threads to the fill-hole on the master cylinder are a mystery, so I filed down a 1/2" pvc fitting to get it to thread in, we'll see if it works..........

 

 

 

IMG_9968 SML copy.jpg

IMG_9973  SML copy.jpg

IMG_9975.jpg

IMG_9976 sml copy.jpg

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NEW QUESTION

involving the rear wheels. Having installed new bearing seals, I notice play in the rear axles, that is, I can pull them out a bit, as per the photos. The blue tape marks the axle position so you can see the gap, almost a half inch on the Right Rear after pulling on them. Are the new seals the wrong size?

 

 

 

 

RR- 1 copy.jpg

RR- 2  copy.jpg

LR- 1  copy.jpg

LR- 2  copy.jpg

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16 minutes ago, 53 Truck-O-Matic said:

NEW QUESTION

involving the rear wheels. Having installed new bearing seals, I notice play in the rear axles, that is, I can pull them out a bit, as per the photos. The blue tape marks the axle position so you can see the gap, almost a half inch on the Right Rear after pulling on them. Are the new seals the wrong size?

 

 

 

 

RR- 1 copy.jpg

RR- 2  copy.jpg

LR- 1  copy.jpg

LR- 2  copy.jpg

That should be determined by how many shims you have between the axle housing and the backing plate. What is between there?

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