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Fuel tank, keep or replace


MarcDeSoto

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18 years ago I took the tank off my 52 because I discovered as they pulled it onto the flatbed for the trip home that it was leaking on the top.  I honestly don’t know if there was anyone making new ones then or not.  I used the POR coating kit and to this day all seems to be ok. Of course I change the filter regularly and have had occasion to drain the tank a few times since.  Never seen much in the way of dirt when I did drain it. Still, if I had to do it again I would definitely install a new one or at minimum have someone like Renu fix it.

Edited by plymouthcranbrook
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42 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I am at this very crossroads right now with my current build.

I am curious to hear if you have had any estimates done to build the new tank, or just looking for suitable replacement.

 

I remember at the time I thought my buddy got ripped off for $700.

As years gone by, ... He was a electrical engineer at Government labs Sandia labs in NM. He was disabled because he smoked 6 packs of cigarettes a day. severe COPD and needed the large bottles of oxygen on a cart to get around .... Was his nature to give the machine shop the exact specifications of the new tank and how he wanted it built ... Possible he may have lied to me, the $700 was just the tank, another separate bill for the tow and rest of work. He had a good retirement and savings built up, he did what he wanted.

 

So just asking, has  @Plymouthy Adams  checked on any prices to have a tank built?

 

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never get estimates outside of what one will cost for me to slice and dice and make work for my application.....the search is for one that would take the least amount of invasion on my part to fit the vehicle.....couple possibles are in the 96.00 to 206.00 range new and delivered, steel

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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bet you wrong on they fit chevy except to say you can fit almost anything to anything.....the figures were just pulled out of my hat based on recall not specifics....man let me introduce you to a very exclusive club...ABC.....Anything But Chevy....even saying the word aloud and you have to put money in the swear jar....I can get a whopping super large 9.5 gallon direct bolt in tank from England but I cannot take 9.5 serious....the original 6.25 is even a bigger joke...the ABC club and the slogan that WE DON'T WORK ON ANYTHING WE DON'T LIKE is taken serious here at my house....

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Los Control.....this is the forerunner in my quest at the minute.....ample size of 15 gallon, will fit the allocated space and at best 2 inches deeper than I would like as I would wish to stay at or near 8"   but...I have heck of a bit of room for a step bumper and given these never had a bumper to start with....one can build in a bit of a protective plate easy enough  I an only concerned of crinkle in backing into something as the axle is more than adequate to protect it in the front.    I see two mods off the bat...little larger fill tube so to match my body tube and the swap to a bolt in 5 hole sender of Stewart Warner fame  33-240 range resistance...this will match factory provide gauge.   This is 77.00 delivered.....

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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as Robin Williams in one of his movies said, you'll smoke a tuuurd in hell for that......it is Jeep application....I actually can go back to the vey early 2 and 3 tanks and get the 6 1/2 depths....while that is nice the front to rear 18.5 is cutting it close.....I need to mock up a cardboard box in these basic dimension and make a test run.. This would be ideal and HAS the standard sender bung already in place....this I believe may be the better animal...if shocks are out of play..I think I can swing this tank....the price just went to 150 with this unit....yeah...PAY TO PLAY.....lol

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I just started cleaning mine. I purchased the three step system from Bill Hirsch, marine clean, metal tech and sealer. I went one step further, I poured a half gallon of Simple Green in the tank and agitated it and drained it. Then I put the marine clean and another slosh followed with a pressure wash. That got a good amount of trash out. I'm now on the metal tech step and I may have to re-tech before treating. Hirsch has good products.

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I have a 39 Desoto and the 1937-39 Mopar Tanks only fit my car. These are very hard to find several years ago even NOS. I had contacted a major parts supplier in Georgia and I knew they had a NOS tank.  They quoted me a price of $900 just for the tank..  I had my tank repaired and it has been working fine keeping my fingers crossed.  I know that there are reproduction tanks for the 37-39 mopars and they run about 350 with free shipping.

 

So if I get one of these tanks I am already a plus 550 ahead of the game and even if it does not last another 60 years like the oirginal I will still be a head of the game because I will be in the grave and then next guy will have to worry about a tank replacement.   A pair of gas tank straps NOS will also run me around $100 and I already have them but mine that are on the car are not rusted.

 

So for the estimate of $500 for a complete unit I think is a very good price.  I spent a couple hundred dollars when getting mine fixed because I could not afford almost $1000 for a tank.

 

Rich Hartung

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I'll jump in here, too.  I had the tank on our Terraplane cleaned out and sealed at a reputable radiator shop in Tonawanda, NY.  Going on ten years and no issues.  The liner they use now withstands ethanol.  I think "reputable" is key, this shop had been in business since the '50s, and the son of the original owner did the work.  A good shop can tell you whether or not the tank needs to be lined after they clean it, generally, if there is/was any rust at all inside the tank, they'll recommend lining it regardless of how clean they get it.  If the tank leaks, I'll echo that you should get a "new" one.

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4 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

bet you wrong on they fit chevy except to say you can fit almost anything to anything.....the figures were just pulled out of my hat based on recall not specifics....man let me introduce you to a very exclusive club...ABC.....Anything But Chevy....even saying the word aloud and you have to put money in the swear jar....I can get a whopping super large 9.5 gallon direct bolt in tank from England but I cannot take 9.5 serious....the original 6.25 is even a bigger joke...the ABC club and the slogan that WE DON'T WORK ON ANYTHING WE DON'T LIKE is taken serious here at my house....

This probably isn’t the best time to bring up the new Ranco style heater valve that I installed on my 52 Plymouth that was made for a 57 Chevy then?

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I asked a good friend who owns a nice 30 Model A roadster about a good radiator shop in Orange Co., Calif., and he said he knew one that all the old car guys use, even the ones who own Auburns and Dusie's.  He said they do great work, but couldn't remember the exact price, but thought it was $250 - $300.  My gas tank doesn't leak, and has never had ethanol gas in it.  It did have some gas in it when it stopped running in 1980, and I didn't get around to draining it until about 1988.  So it's been empty ever since.  My tank is not rusty on the outside because the car was undercoated.  It does have surface rust on the inside.  I might just buy a new tank kit, but I'm going to wait until I get an estimate from that good radiator shop.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-DESOTO-BRAND-NEW-GAS-TANK-COMPLETE-PACKAGE-SENDING-UNIT-STRAPS-GROMMET/173807433846?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D93d01df8df654912a77e10018282ebbc%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D183175874442%26itm%3D173807433846%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa09f6dc4-b444-11ea-92f2-74dbd180c6b7|parentrq%3Ada61d1db1720abc1c979b0f6fff3905b|iid%3A1

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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MarcDesoto: After looking at the package of items I would go ahead an purchase the entire new gas tank.  So lets say that they repair the tank, you have to drain the entire tank. then let it dray out completely so there is no gas fumes that could ignite when they might have to fix the old unit and then wait for them to complete the job and then reinstall old used items fill the tank with gas again  and restart the car. with an older tank and other items.

 

$500 with included shipping is a good price considering the size of the gas tank and how it is going to be boxed and shipped to you.

 

Bite the bullet now and not later when there could be another issue.  If Mike had the gas tanks for my car with all of the items I would have purchased the setup and I could have put it directly into my car.  Also suggest that you have some form of cloth material for the metal straps so that if the tank does move it does not wear into the bottom or the top of the tank.  Might even consider some plastic fender welting material or antisqueek material.

 

rich Hartung

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500.00 for a reproduction generic fuel can with a spout as I have seen advertised is extreme in cost and poor look overall even though no one will really see it....while it is good the industry is doing some to provide parts...they are falling way short of the mark for the cost they demand from the consumer.  

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Another option might be to find an aftermarket tank with similar dimensions as the original (if that's possible).  I was getting ready to buy a new tank for my '54 Dodge which all in was around $500.  Instead I found a Dorman aftermarket tank that had very similar dimensions for $90.  Bought a new sending unit for $75 and made some new straps for $30.  Installed and it works find.  Again, just another option.

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in my mind's eye be a tough fit without major refit of the fill tube based on location of the 51/52 model year compared 53/54....and also if this is a car and not a truck...I can supply number and details pictures of needed tweaks for the Suburban 51/52...in and out for less than a C note...GIVEN you are adept at weld and fabrication of a sender...but then my sender was adapted for a fuel return line EFI setup...but without that...even easier....

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yes you might find an after market tank. I found ones that were plastic tanks but were not correct and would require a lot of modifications just to fit the 39 Desoto.  Again when an original NOS tank 1937-39 that has been sitting in a warehouse for over 75 years and you have not seen the tank or the inside of the tank leaves a lot of questions when the seller is asking $900 plus for the tank plus shipping.  

 

So when Mike W has now gone and I assume had an original 37-39 Mopar Tank and has a reproduction tank made and it is selling for around $350 and free shipping and this will prolong the life and use of the car possibly for another 10-15 years I think that is a good option.  Yes with any reproduction item there isa chance of having to modify something to get it to fit perfectly.

 

So also when you are supporting a family and your home and kids and your regular cars and then have an antique car or truck this is the item that sometimes you might spend less money on since the car is not a daily driver to support your families needs.

 

All I say is that its up to the current owner to know how deep they want to spend for a part.  Let look to see how many reproduction parts are on some of the AACA cars that are Senior and Grand National cars.

 

They only made so many original parts and then a machinist had to make something to fix an issue. So some of the cars do not have a total NOS car but items that have been remade and most people do not even know the difference.

 

Rich Hartung 

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and on the hoping no one sees the difference many are wishful and hopeful.  An AACA event is very strict I know...I have viewed their cars and they are head and shoulders above anything I ever saw at a POC event.  I am not knocking the POC folks but in reality they are not true to their own creed per my finding at that event.  They also seem to be lessening their criteria and parts alone may be a great player in that.   Disappointed yes, surprised, no....understood, you betcha...do I participate...never again....but I feel I have missed nothing.   

 

So  when I state some items are over priced it is based on what one CAN DO not on what one CAN BUY....some folks just got PA money and will do just that with it.   It is nothing but a bit of money when you buy and bolt....very little build going on and usually many do not understand the operation of the item replaced....they win at the shows...they lose in the total purpose of the hobby.  

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3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

and on the hoping no one sees the difference many are wishful and hopeful.  An AACA event is very strict I know...I have viewed their cars and they are head and shoulders above anything I ever saw at a POC event.  I am not knocking the POC folks but in reality they are not true to their own creed per my finding at that event.  They also seem to be lessening their criteria and parts alone may be a great player in that.   Disappointed yes, surprised, no....understood, you betcha...do I participate...never again....but I feel I have missed nothing.   

 

So  when I state some items are over priced it is based on what one CAN DO not on what one CAN BUY....some folks just got PA money and will do just that with it.   It is nothing but a bit of money when you buy and bolt....very little build going on and usually many do not understand the operation of the item replaced....they win at the shows...they lose in the total purpose of the hobby.  

Plymouthy:  I also have gone through some of the AACA judging classes. But as an AACA judge all you are permitted to do to look under the car to judge the undercarriage is to get down on one knee, pardon the current pun, and examine the underside of the car.  So if an after market reproduction gas tank is installed in the car and there is not apparent factory painted number that is visible the judge is not going to know it is repro or not original. They are looking to see that it resembles the original factory look.  So with that they say that a car can be over restored such as having a high glass paint on the frame, They even do not judge for a correct factory color based on the color code that is stamped on the factory identification metal plate. So long as the color is a resemblance of a color that might have been offered then they will not question the owner.  They do not ask for color chips if a 1939 Desoto is painted purple with metal flake then it is wrong because they would know that that was not an option.

 

So I looked at the link that Marc had supplied and from looking at the picture it looks as if this isa factory copy and looks darn good.  Ask Marc to call around to see if he can even find a true NOS gas tank and get a price might be more than the $500 if he can find one.  So in the long run I guess we all should never purchase anything from Steele rubber because he has made reproduction rubber parts and we should all be using NOS rubber that is 40-80 years old.

 

Sometimes we just have to over look somethings and determine what is important and a repro tank that looks and fits well will keep the car ont he road. And then let the judges determine if they want to take off points.  Marc is the person that is the one spending the cash and only he can determine what he wants to spend.  I think we all have provided our input to his questions and now its time from him to make the decision.

 

Rich Hartung 

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