Los_Control Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Looks like a 1950 truck 218 1 hour ago, Matfirstattempt said: Engine Number: TI72 (star?) 54509 (star?) that is the engine ID number and if original will be the ID number on your title. Often the engines get changed over the years and no longer match the title, give you a idea if it is original engine. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html 1 hour ago, Matfirstattempt said: I once had a dishwasher that needed replacing. After diving in it became a $2,500 kitchen udpate. Who knows until we get there. I remember modifying a cabinet on a old house and adding a dishwasher for a pregnant woman ... I am going to stop right there and I really hope she is doing fine and raising a fine family Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matfirstattempt Posted July 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Yeah, i found that site after posting and doing more digging. I think it's original. i know it's a B-2-B listed and the truck is a B-2-G but surely they may have used the same engines? I assume the TI is really T1. (not sure why 1 is beamed like a roman numeral) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 We found this - a 1950 Dodge B2C stake bed 46 minutes ago, Matfirstattempt said: i know it's a B-2-B listed and the truck is a B-2-G I think the G is a mistype, it looks to me like a B2C The difference between a B and a C is B is 1/2 ton, C is 3/4 ton. The wheel base is longer on the 3/4 ton, the brakes are 11" instead of 10" I am sure the B2C has a few extra leaf springs, for the larger 11" drums they did a 5 on 5" bolt pattern for the wheels and actually went to a wider 15" wheel instead of 16" on the 1/2 ton ... there really was not a lot of difference between a 1/2 & 3/4. I feel like I may be forgetting something ... dunno And back then you had several options to order for your new truck, so it depends what was ordered. The 218 engine is a short head block, 23.5" head length ... when you got into the larger 2 ton trucks, Desoto, Chrysler etc they had the 25" block with bigger cubic inches. Seems all Canadian cars/trucks were fitted with 25" engines ... a lot to learn there. Your B2C with the 218 sounds perfectly normal to me ... My 1949 B1C came factory with a 218, The original owner the farmer installed a 1937 218 in it ... they never changed for years and direct bolt in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, Matfirstattempt said: @Los_Control - I once had a dishwasher that needed replacing. After diving in it became a $2,500 kitchen udpate. Who knows until we get there. As I messaged you also, there may be hole in piston 3. I'm not certain beacuse there's no knocking but the 16oz of Mystery Oil i dropped in #3 didn't stop till the bottle was empty! odd that it gave me 20psi though.... I'm looking closer to numbers because it looks like i'll be pulling heads and oil pan to clean up and inspect the engine. I don't intend to rebuild - i don't have the shop space or time to do that right now BUT I need to get gaskets all replaced and clean all the awful gunk off the engine block while I'm there inspecting this issue with #3. So, I need help interpreting the numbers: Serial Number: 8335412 Engine Number: TI72 (star?) 54509 (star?) Model listed as: B-2-G-116 What does it mean folks? I looked in the service manual and it doesn't say much about numbers, especially the engine number. The serial numbers are funky. I don't know what to make of the "116" either. Help? The amount of MO it took is no indication of the problem. If the piston was at the bottom when you added it, it takes a lot to fill the whole cylinder. If at the top, and a valve open, it would fill the intake or exhaust manifold. Only at the top with both valves closed could it point to a major piston issue. I like to use a 'poor man's" leak down test. You can go buy or borrow a leak down tester. Or, do like me, and make an adapter to attach an air hose to a spark plug hole. Weld an air nipple to an old spark plug or use parts from the compression gauge to adapt the threads. Bring the suspect piston to top dead center on the compression stroke, attach an air hose and listen at the oil fill, carb throat and tail pipe for the escaping air. Oil fill could be rings, piston or cylinder wall. Otherwise it will indicate a bad intake or exh valve. Oh, and use a regulated pressure and keep it low to prevent it from turning the engine. Otherwise you would have to block the crank from turning, like put it in gear, set the emergency brake or block the wheels. .The G is likely a C as another poster mentioned. 116 is probably the wheelbase, if my memory is any good at all. Edited July 5, 2020 by kencombs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Could just be a stuck valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcotant Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 20 hours ago, Los_Control said: We found this - a 1950 Dodge B2C stake bed I think the G is a mistype, it looks to me like a B2C The difference between a B and a C is B is 1/2 ton, C is 3/4 ton. The wheel base is longer on the 3/4 ton, the brakes are 11" instead of 10" I am sure the B2C has a few extra leaf springs, for the larger 11" drums they did a 5 on 5" bolt pattern for the wheels and actually went to a wider 15" wheel instead of 16" on the 1/2 ton ... there really was not a lot of difference between a 1/2 & 3/4. I feel like I may be forgetting something ... dunno And back then you had several options to order for your new truck, so it depends what was ordered. The 218 engine is a short head block, 23.5" head length ... when you got into the larger 2 ton trucks, Desoto, Chrysler etc they had the 25" block with bigger cubic inches. Seems all Canadian cars/trucks were fitted with 25" engines ... a lot to learn there. Your B2C with the 218 sounds perfectly normal to me ... My 1949 B1C came factory with a 218, The original owner the farmer installed a 1937 218 in it ... they never changed for years and direct bolt in. 5x5 bolt pattern is the easiest way to determine if it is 3/4 ton, also the 11 inch front brakes. Also the brake anchor bolts on front (that go through spindle) are 9/16 inch instead of 1/2 inch diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matfirstattempt Posted July 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 Well, the woodworking business has slowed a bit and I'm going to take the time to put into the truck. Y'all know I've got either a ring or valve issue. I plan on draining the fluids, removing the head, inspecting what I've got and fixing it - valve, ring, etc - along with new seals. I also think I should check valve clearance - lots of ticking. I hear these are "typewriter" engines but it couldn't hurt to see how they are. Likely during the next month will be also 1) brake MC upgrade to DMC and lines 2) Kingpin replacements, 3) tie rod end replacements, 4) fuel tank float assembly replacement, 5) steering adjustment and fresh oil 6) handbrake clearance adjustment/lining replacement, 7) oil pressure relief valve cleaning. 8 ) distributor tune up and/or rebuild 9) Fix horn relay 10) add blinker switch 11) fix whatever is causing the excessive blowby - stuck/burnt valve, stuck ring, etc I'd like to get into the rear axel and replace the seals in it and the transfer box - seems to leak oil regularly from differential. I read the manual and it's intimidating for replacing all the seals. Any approaches or recommendations you have on the list above would be great. Lastly, one question: are there any fuses in these trucks? I can't find a single one and haven't read up on the voltage regulator yet. If there are no fuses, would it be a bad/silly approach to add any? Thanks for all your support and advice! Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted July 22, 2020 Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 One thing I did was remove the dog house. It is not to difficult on these old trucks. Get it unbolted and 2 guys can lift it off and set aside. While everything on your list can be done with the front end left on, the amount of items on your list it may be easier faster with it out of the way. Maybe depends on how much motor work is needed. The motors sit so low, is hard to lean over the fenders and work on. As mine sits, I can still start it up and move it around as needed. Almost like having it on a engine stand to work on. But I had a different list of items to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcotant Posted July 23, 2020 Report Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) There might be some third party stuff that has fuses, but original truck had none. FYI the amp gauge has/is a fusible link so if you dead short it blows, found this out the hard way. On my 49 dodge I am correcting this with some fuse blocks and a fusible link between starter and amp gauge in. Actually the original Mopar tube radio had a fuse. Edited July 23, 2020 by dcotant added more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matfirstattempt Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 It's been too long since I've posted but my woodworking side hustle took a grip over my time and didnt let go. I haven't been able to get this up yet until now. Here's a video of the motor running at idle. There's a lot of wind noise from the fan - sorry about that. The head is getting taken off next week so I can actually see the valves work. Any initial thoughts on the video? Dual master will get replaced next week too along with new head gasket and cleaning the oil relief valve. The "doghouse" will get taken off as Los_Control mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 I think I hear an exhaust leak sound? Like maybe a leaking exhaust manifold gasket or a crack maybe in the exhaust manifold? Hard to tell for sure based on listening to the YT video. When you pull the head you'll get a pretty good indication of what is going on. I'd pull both of the manifolds as well. Then you can easily get at the valves and perform a valve seat leak test. You can look up in the intake and exhaust ports and see if the valve seat areas seal well. Put some kerosene around the top of the valve seat area when the piston is at TDC, both valves are then closed as tight as they can. Get a flash light and look for kerosene dripping past the seat area into the intake and exhaust ports. If so then your next step may be either a valve grind or hopefully just some lapping time to seal them back up. There is a chance that the 20psi cylinder could have a burnt exhaust valve. You'd see that right away when the head is removed. Based on the photo of your plugs, they look pretty clean for an engine that could have poor seal at the piston rings. No? A pic of where I got to when I did a valve grind on my flathead 254 engine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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