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And it begins....


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My wife and I purchased a home on 11 acres - it's the perfect place we wanted with more than enough space for my 1K sqft woodshop. The home had one owner - built well and solid. It feels perfect for us.  We needed a truck for the property though - I wanted something I could work on and 'cut my teeth' in learning more about working on trucks/cars beyond replacing calipers and simple electrical. We found this - a 1950 Dodge B2C stake bed just up the road from us for $3,600. It is one owner with less than 53K miles - all original (so we've been told) but it appears that way. Maybe best yet: the owner who passed was cousins to the owners of our property. I'll be upgrading it this summer to be drive reliably and safely. Then, either this winter or next summer, I'll be looking to rebuild it. And so it begins: Here. We. Go. 

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Nice solid looking truck. Getting it running, be sure the brakes are good, and drive the crap out of it. (Maybe with newer tires)

 

What part of 'Sconsin are you in? I'm in the Appleton/Fox Valley area. There's a few other Pilot-House truck guys around here too. And I know there are several others scattered around the state. The rolling hills in the background look like you're over on the western side. 

Edited by Merle Coggins
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@dcotant MT. HOREB IS MY HOMETOWN!!!!  Class of '05

 

I'm down in Monroe now @Merle Coggins

 

@Ruderhaus - no name yet. Thinking maybe "Pigpen" since the previous owner was a pig farmer and it has a pig on the side. I don't know. Maybe Leo? No suggestion is too awful - takin' any you got :) haha

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Excellent! I would like to see your ride some day, but it might be later in the summer. Also you might like coming to the annual party at Studebaker Acres around the 4th of July, just down county ID from Mount Horeb, around the 4th of July.( https://www.facebook.com/events/793596124468595/ ). Of course we should try to plan to descend on the SkyVue Drive In sometime with our trucks, assuming they open up this year.

Edited by dcotant
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@dcotant, who runs that? It looks like it's at the old Thronson farm - I knew Glen and Betsy well. My mom's side is from Barneveld - related to half the town. I think I see Glenn in one of the photos. So cool - small world! Yes, let's get together. Keep in mind though, my rig is straight out the barn - nothing updated or clearned outside of a nice vacuum and wipe down of the interior. :)

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I am bad with names, I cannot recall his. Don't worry about condition, his Studebaker pickup is "unrefined" as well, I think your truck actually looks better. However I did get some looks when i drove my parts truck (JR) to the event two years ago by some of the people sporting "full restores" but whatever.

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That’s cool, this is Glenn and Betsy Thronson’s old farm. I played there a couple times as a kid. Knew them and still know Lowell well. I’ll see what we can work out for this summer. Thanks man

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2 hours ago, dcotant said:

I would like to know too, I am near Mount Horeb, which is near Madison. Have owned my 49 B-1-C since 75.

 

1 hour ago, Matfirstattempt said:

@dcotant MT. HOREB IS MY HOMETOWN!!!!  Class of '05

 

I'm down in Monroe now @Merle Coggins

 

 

That's cool, guys. I was just down that way recently. I was in Monroe last week, doing some work with Green County Hwy Dept., at their shop. And Yesterday I had to make a run down to Argyle to visit a customer. 

 

That event in Blue Mounds sounds interesting. I'd probably thinking about making the drive down there with my truck, but it's looking like I'll be teaching motorcycle school that weekend down in Waukesha. 

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Pigeon, hmm... Homing Pigeon. Homer! A good name?

 

Cool truck have fun learning.  These old vehicles are awesome to work on. There's lots of support here in this forum. You can do pretty well anything yourself working these.

This past winter I rebuilt my first ever transmission. I'm still sorta shocked I can say this this, but now I know I can also say its not hard. Clutch, axles, chassis wiring, brakes, ignition, valve grind, driveshaft, radiator, carb rebuild, differential, wheel bearings, major engine work, valve set, and more. All done right here at home. And I"m a rookie when it comes to this stuff. My baby went to a formal garage only once, to get a new hand shaped exhaust system built. That's it. With the desire, patience, ingenuity,  and a little pocket money flowing in, it can be done at a reasonable price. I'm building a driver, as opposed to a show winner.

 

 

Edited by keithb7
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That’s what I’m hoping for too. Building a driver that can do work. Maybe someday it’ll retire and I can make it a show winner, until then “no free lunch” at our ranch 

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@dcotant, Yeah, I remember Zach! Last name is Anderson. first is the first three of my handle. Zach hung out with Max and a few other guys I remember their faces but not the names. They weren't really in my circle - hell I didn't really have a circle. Anyway, ask most people in my hometown if they thought I'd be turning wrenches on a 70-year-old truck and they'd probably laugh at you. :) 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I posted a couple other threads On this - I took Alice on a 40 mile drive about 2 weeks ago. She Started to smoke the next day. Appears to be severe blow by from down tube.
 

I did a compression test on her. See photo. since 3 had poor pressure wet and dry, I assume valves are a main issue. I don’t hear a knock on the engine but then again, I’m learning as I go. Am I on the right track?

 

at 40mph on that drive, oil was consistently around 50-60 psi at the gauge. Another member on a different thread stated that was high and possible oil pressure relief valve issue as well.

 

thoughts? I’d like to ease into this - not do a full breakdown if I can help it. I understand that I might not get a choice in that either. Where do I begin what else should I look for?

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Low compression on #3, and excessive blow-by, would tend to indicate bad rings on #3 piston. They may just be stuck in their grooves due to extended time of non running, and may loosen up after a few more heat cycles. Or not... Maybe give it another Seafoam treatment and drive it around for a month to see what happens. (I'm all for doing simple things first) If it continues after that you may need to do a partial tear down of the engine to free, or replace, the rings on that hole.

 If valves were the issue you'd likely have a miss-fire, or rough running engine, and that wouldn't cause excessive blow-by. 

 

My oil pressure typically sits at just over 40 when driving down the road. 50-60 does sound a bit high, with hot oil. A sticky relief valve could very well be the culprit there too. Maybe the Seafoam treatment will help with that as well??? Otherwise you'll have to try to extract it and clean it up. 

Edited by Merle Coggins
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17 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Low compression on #3, and excessive blow-by, would tend to indicate bad rings on #3 piston. They may just be stuck in their grooves due to extended time of non running, and may loosen up after a few more heat cycles. Or not... Maybe give it another Seafoam treatment and drive it around for a month to see what happens.

I think this is very good advice.

I would go a bit further myself, And soak all the cylinders in marvel mystery oil is what I used, Or A 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone is also a very good mixture.

 

I would be concerned that at 20 psi compression, I question if the cylinder is firing or just going along for a ride, the excess fuel may wash the oil out of the cylinder and piston causing more damage.

I think all 6 holes would get some benefit, even if you just soak #3, maybe 2-7 days, I bet you would see a good improvement. Get that cylinder up to 60 psi then drive it.

The rings spin in the grooves as the pistons go up and down, just one happy merry go round ride.

When they sit and the old oil gets gummed up, the rings get stuck in the grooves and they are not so happy,  #3 is not happy at all.

Also if you add the oil, let it sit for 2 days, rotate engine by half a turn by hand and add more oil, the excess is going down the valves lubricating the guides which is a bonus.

The next bonus, all the oil is being pushed into the muffler,  When you first start the truck, you will clear out every mosquito for a 2 block radius.

 

You will need to change the oil after this, and as suggested above, try seafoam and see if will clear up the gummy oil relief valve.

 

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Thanks guys for your advice! I Talked with my mechanic today also. He also suggested soaking #3in mystery oil for a few hours and then running/driving it for 5 minutes each day to try to get things loose. I’m only putting in a few teaspoons of Mystery Oil. Should I be using more?

 

 So that’s the plan for now, give it a week or better to see what that might do. Do another oil change next week to clean all the crud out and then try a compression test again to see if we have any improvement.

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14 minutes ago, Matfirstattempt said:

I’m only putting in a few teaspoons of Mystery Oil. Should I be using more?

There is no right or wrong answer here.  I used more, but my truck was parked between 10-20 years ... seller claimed 10 years and I think closer to 20 years.

My worst cylinder had 60 psi. I feel I was lucky. And I also have a imaginary number in my mind, you need 60 psi to fire. I felt comfortable soaking it well, and then running it and soaking again.  I think I soaked it 4 times and is up about 100 psi now and still lagging behind the rest but a big improvement.

 

It is possible you do nothing and it starts to improve. You might add a few table spoons and it does the trick, you may find it does not. ... My suggestion is to use a funnel, and pour it in till it wont take any more on all cylinders ... maybe over kill, You wont hurt anything, and your engine will luv you for it ... By filling the cylinders up, just allows the rings to soak a little longer because sitting a few days the oil will all leak into the pan.   But the 3 cylinders with valves open, the oil will overflow down into the valve train, when you rotate the engine 1/2 way and fill it again, now the other set of valves are open and getting lubed.    ... On  a old flathead that is exactly what you want.

The valve stems are known to get gummed up and stick. ... Valve lifts up, cam goes around and valve stays up, the gummed up oil on the stems is stopping it from operating normally.

Usually you get zero compression on a cylinder with a gummed up valve. But what happens if the valve is just pokey and needs proper lube to get it working correctly ...It is still possible it is the valves causing the main issue on #3 and not the rings.

 

It is possible, you have a bad cylinder and only tear it down will repair it.

 

So whats your plan, 3 spoons of oil for a week and see if it works .... then add more oil and see if it works ... and 3 months later pull it apart and find the issue?

My plan to fill it & soak it, after a week and you have no improvement on #3 ... you are finished with that step, next step is to remove the head and the pan, and the piston/rod ... you will know then what is wrong.

Just depends how long you want to mess with it. It is possible the truck was running and broke a ring and dropped a cylinder and and the ring dropped in the pan and damaged your oil relief valve ... so previous owner parked it, instead of fixing it ... soaking it is not going to help.

 

FWIW, fix the oil relief and leave the piston & rod out, slap it back together and run it. I had a 1949 chevy with 5 cylinders, it ran and did it's job just fine.

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@Los_Control yeah, right now it’ll be a week of soaking and running. I’ll see if I can get to cleaning the oil relief valve. I also have a fitting From the oil filter to the engine that needs to be looked at and sealed back up - lots of gunk/grime there. Coincidentally that’s by bottom of #3. I don’t know inner workings enough to know if could be connected to the cylinder problem. 

 

I’ll do a week of this, I’ll see if I’m getting much of a compression increase. If so, keep on with it. If not, will look at the valves. If not there, pistons and rings it is. Will let you know what I find.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Matfirstattempt said:

right now it’ll be a week of soaking and running. I’ll see if I can get to cleaning the oil relief valve.

Sometimes we have to be detectives and look for clues on past history of our trucks. I am pretty sure my truck was over heating and is when they decided to park it.

 

Looking at your truck ..... I get a detective feeling that it really has not been parked for 20 years. .... Maybe 10 years, I just do not have the feeling it is a stuck ring or valve ... especially if you drive it and it does not improve. .... How long did you spend rebuilding the brakes after it sat for 10+ years?

My detective feeling is thinking all of us here are being kind, and wishing soaking it will help. I honestly do not think it will. Why I am suggesting soaking it like a big dog,

Just so you have no undecided feelings as you open up the engine. I really think that is where you are headed .... I am not even sure if I drank 3 spoons of mmo ...  would  help me be regular in the  morning.

I am hoping you come back and tell us,  A little oil and all is like new again.

I just have this feeling, with all your other compression readings and the over all condition of the truck, you will soon get to take a peek at the insides of your motor.

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@Los_Control - I once had a dishwasher that needed replacing. After diving in it became a $2,500 kitchen udpate. Who knows until we get there. As I messaged you also, there may be hole in piston 3. I'm not certain beacuse there's no knocking but the 16oz of Mystery Oil i dropped in #3 didn't stop till the bottle was empty! odd that it gave me 20psi though....

 

I'm looking closer to numbers because it looks like i'll be pulling heads and oil pan to clean up and inspect the engine. I don't intend to rebuild - i don't have the shop space or time to do that right now BUT I need to get gaskets all replaced and clean all the awful gunk off the engine block while I'm there inspecting this issue with #3. So,  I need help interpreting the numbers:

 

Serial Number:  8335412

Engine Number: TI72 (star?) 54509 (star?)

 

Model listed as: B-2-G-116

 

What does it mean folks? I looked in the service manual and it doesn't say much about numbers, especially the engine number. The serial numbers are funky. I don't know what to make of the "116" either. Help?

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