Should I shave??

[Cat Whisker]

11 hours ago, Hickory said:

I took .070 off my head and .012 off my block and liked the results. The only thing I regret is now if I change can I really have to watch the lift of the new grind. I would record the new valve clearance and write it down for future reference.

I did the putty thing and got the measurements before I milled the deck and head. I guess like you, I never thought to take them again AFTER metal work was finished. It's together and torqued down, installed, and resting on the mounts. I will definitely keep this in mind for the next time. Thanks and take care.

[Cat Whisker]

11 hours ago, greg g said:

Unless I missed something, you don't have the heat shield that goes between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump.  Should be one there. It's made from light sheet metal. The down loads section of this site has a pattern. It's a good thing to have in hot weather.  Tell us about the carb and distributor, they don't appear stock. Nice looking engine.  With you increased cr, it's going to want a bit of timing advance from stock.  Are you familiar with using a vacuum gauge to set timing?  It is a good process that will take your mods into account and do a real time, real conditions setting.  What are you running for spark plugs?

 

 

I didn't even know there was a heat shield.Since you mentioned it, I found a few pictures of it installed and I did talk to the previous owner. There wasn't one on it during the 9 years he had it either. He said there was no problems. I know I wasn't too fond of the metal fuel tube that was going to the carb being as close to the manifold as it was. That's why I used braided PTFE hose and kept it somewhat away from the heat. I did download the specs for the heat shield which calls for cold RS about .050 thick. I do have lots of 14, 18, and 22 gauge metal around but will probably make one out of aluminum. A close neighbor has a real nice forming brake that can do rolled sections too.

 

The dizzy is a stock Autolite but I did replace the points with a Pertronix Ignitor. Testing it on the bench really impressed me. The multiple spark it makes rivals anything that MSD has.

 

The carb is a Uremco that was for a 1966 Mustang L6 (260 CI). It's a 2 bbl downdraft which fits the intake manifold and required very little adjustment for the stock throttle linkage.

 

As for the timing, I will use a vacuum gauge and a under hood digital tach. The current plugs are stock R45's set at .038 which should be OK with the Pertronix 60K volt coil.

 

Many, many thanks for the info and the reference to the heat shield.

[greg g]

As a proud member of the P & C  A & P Society (Points and Condenser Appreciation and Preservation Society, I have heard of several sudden and complete failures of Pertronix assemblies, a couple with close friends who were left with a dead car in some pretty precarious locations.  As an electronic thingies there is usually no curbside fix or limp home mode.  As a precaution and bit of insurance, locate another distributor set it up with new tune up parts, run it for a bit then put it in the antique cooler, picnic basket or old Samsonite suitcase in the trunk.  Then you have a known quality and quantity get out of jail free card should the PTRNX choose to resign with out notice.  Just remember that the pug gap needs to go back to 025 if you are in for a long haul. Assuming you swapped to 12 volt, pack a ballast resister in with the dizzy to wire into the coil if there is not one in place.  Any one from mid 60s Mopar will do the job.

 

If you have sheet stock 18 gauge is probably plenty.  With your neighbor having the brake, you might start up and assembly line deal and run off a dozen, you might find a market here and on other Mopar chat sites.

 

Glad to be of assistance.  Gettin more old Mopars an the road is always a good thing.

Edited May 22, 2020 by greg g

[Cat Whisker]

On 5/22/2020 at 4:09 PM, greg g said:

As a proud member of the P & C  A & P Society (Points and Condenser Appreciation and Preservation Society, I have heard of several sudden and complete failures of Pertronix assemblies, a couple with close friends who were left with a dead car in some pretty precarious locations.  As an electronic thingies there is usually no curbside fix or limp home mode.  As a precaution and bit of insurance, locate another distributor set it up with new tune up parts, run it for a bit then put it in the antique cooler, picnic basket or old Samsonite suitcase in the trunk.  Then you have a known quality and quantity get out of jail free card should the PTRNX choose to resign with out notice.  Just remember that the pug gap needs to go back to 025 if you are in for a long haul. Assuming you swapped to 12 volt, pack a ballast resister in with the dizzy to wire into the coil if there is not one in place.  Any one from mid 60s Mopar will do the job.

 

If you have sheet stock 18 gauge is probably plenty.  With your neighbor having the brake, you might start up and assembly line deal and run off a dozen, you might find a market here and on other Mopar chat sites.

 

Glad to be of assistance.  Gettin more old Mopars an the road is always a good thing.

 

Well Greg, I must be doing something right. The Glove Compartment Gods (GOG) are watching out for me. In restoring the inside area, specifically the dash with new gauges, I opted for a new glove box and when it arrived, I wondered why it had an emergency kit in it. Low and behold, check out the picture of what it contained. 

 

I also made sure I got a starter solenoid with a terminal for the "I" if I need to revert back to the stone age.

 

For now I'm going with just the one heat shield as most of my efforts are contraited on the rear end. It's getting new bearings, seals, etc. I am glad it's got spacer shims for the pinion preload and not a PITA crush sleeve.  The local O'reilly's has all the bearings and the correct inner oil seals. They even recommended the correct outer oil seals.  

 

Many, many thanks for the advice and info. And for making me go thru my old parts bins to find a ballast resistor, even if it's a GM...

[greg g]

Keep on keeping on.