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water distribution tube removal


The Way

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I normally don't share much on here, I'm really a better listener, but tonight I got off with only 2 strokes on my Wang Doodle! Maybe I should explain, with the help of a friend at work, and some scrap metal, we made the 'Wang Doodle Water Distribution Removal Tool'. After reading the horror stories of trying to retrieve this tube from the block, along with a disastrous attempt I saw on Youtube, I was prepared for the worst. A week ago I sprayed penetrating fluid down the water passages to help loosen any rust. Yesterday I tried removing the tube just by pulling on the aluminum piece (aka the Wang) just by hand, nothing. Today we made up the hammer slide portion (aka the Doodle) and I got 1 1/2' on the first pull. The remainder of the tube came out on the second pull. WAHOO!!?? Now I do have to be realistic about my success, as you can see in the picture the tube is in great shape! Yes, Walter Chrysler was smiling down on me today.

distribution tube and remover.jpg

slide hammer.jpg

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That ain't an original water tube..............lol..............I'd still buy a lottery ticket.............the only tube I'd put back in an engine would be one made from brass, copper or maybe stainless steel...........you done good.................andyd

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  • 5 months later...

I hope it's not too late to post a message here.  I've been thinking about inspecting my water distribution tube and I watched a video of a guy pulling his out.  It was made of brass and he had a spare engine block and the one in it was also made of brass.  I looked at one of the two major vintage MoPar parts suppliers and their replacement tube is made of sheet metal and they mention in the discription that the reason it is not made of brass is because of potential galvanic reaction.  I'm curious what others think about this theory?

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That was my video. Now you know me. Lol. 
 

I found no issues related to my brass tubes and galvanic reaction.  Both of mine were stock, original brass tubes in 65-70 to year old Mopar blocks. 

Edited by keithb7
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Galvanic issues, hmm.  Sorry brass inside a cast iron block really isn't subject to that. 

 

http://www.rmmcia.com/blog/metal-compatibility-galvanic-corrosion

 

The reason is simple, brass is expensive but lasts a long time, as evidenced in Keith;s videos.  Steel is cheap and lasts long enough for the manufacturer, as evidenced by every steel one that has been replaced.

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Not to mention the steel ones had many problems with rusting in place and damn hard to remove.

 

May not be so bad if owners keep their cars with good antifreeze and replace it as now recommended.

 

DJ

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3 hours ago, Sniper said:

Galvanic issues, hmm.  Sorry brass inside a cast iron block really isn't subject to that. 

 

http://www.rmmcia.com/blog/metal-compatibility-galvanic-corrosion

 

The reason is simple, brass is expensive but lasts a long time, as evidenced in Keith;s videos.  Steel is cheap and lasts long enough for the manufacturer, as evidenced by every steel one that has been replaced.

You did your homework Professor, and I like the chart/pyramid. No arguement here, and I failed hs chemistry, but copper being in the non ferrous family does not like steel (or vice versa)

Edited by michaelmarks697@yahoo.com
stupidty
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3 hours ago, keithb7 said:

That was my video. Now you know me. Lol. 
 

I found no issues related to my brass tubes and galvanic reaction.  Both of mine were stock, original brass tubes in 65-70 to year old Mopar blocks. 

I didn't know you were here too Keith.  I also left a comment on your video #2 about perhaps using a home made tool with 7 teeth as opposed to one tooth to remove the tube. 

In the parts supplier's notation about dissimilar metals, their concern was the effect it would have on the block casting and not the brass tube.   Most of the time during my high school chemestry classes, I was looking at the girls as opposed to listening and learning, so I'm just passing on what they seem as a concern as opposed to any knowledge I have.  However I did learn that Becky was very friendly in class. :)  So  grade 10 Chemestry wasn't a total failure.

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I would always put a brass water tube in rather than a mild steel one...............as an aside in 1974/75 I had the 318 Poly in my 1940 Dodge rebuilt..............I assembled the engine myself and used brass welch plugs in that engine then..........they are still there, nothing has coroded nor leaked in the past 45 odd years.............my 2 Oz cents worth.............andyd 

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To the best of my knowledge, the 25” Canadian engines used brass tubes. I have taken 3 out, and they all came out without much fuss. At least one of those I can personally guarantee hadn’t been touched since the 1960s. I would hazard a guess that any galvanic action going on must be pretty minimal.

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My '39 P8 had a brass tube. The engine is original to the car and was rebuilt this past winter. When the tube was pulled it was so good it was reused. The engine appears to have last been opened up in about 1950. The tube may or may not have been replaced.

 

Pete

 

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On 10/23/2020 at 7:38 AM, Frank Gooz said:

Question

Do the holes in the tube face down? I am getting to this point very soon.

Thank you

You should watch keithb7's 2 videos on the subject.  They are both really good.  All his videos are excellent !

 

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Not a formal cross reference, however I looked up the part numbers for each:

 

1938 201 engine  water distribution tube: 637432

1953 218 water distribution 1120672

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