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OT plastic kit car


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  • 3 weeks later...
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It was Beautiful and sunny and I got the car running pretty good, so I took it out for a ride.


Not 100% good but I would say 98% good, with just a little hesitation off the line once it warms up. It’s probably got a minor vacuum leak somewhere.


)The manifold is absolute dung.)


Static timing with the Fluke & 22mm wrench.



The gas leaks are cured and the oil leaks are cured. So far.


This is because I tore the carburetor and distributor off yesterday. I’ve been wanting to do this for a while.




A gorilla used this distributor clamp for a chew toy.



I was condemning the carburetor because it has been sitting for 18 months since I bought the car. The carburetor was a mess.


It had rings just like a tree has rings. But it doesn’t have age and corrosion. It’s a nice shiny carburetor. Doesn’t have any miles on it but was full of dried up gas, and every hole that pointed towards the sky was plugged up with dirt. Fortunately it was a 400 mile carburetor and I had no problem cleaning it up and making it work.


You have to take the distributor out to get the carburetor out. That gave me a chance to inspect and lube the distributor and check the timing out. The points look like they have 400 miles on them. This is the low-time Brazilian made copy of the German Bosch 009 style distributor.


 Here is some Volkswagen trivia for Anybody who changes the distributor.


This car originally had a distributor with vacuum dashpots to help control the advance. Someone changed it to the more industrial style centrifugal advance distributor.


It has the breaker plate 90° off. This means you have to move the spark plug wires around the clock one position so the engine will be in time.


What the original builder did, however, was to make new timing marks on my antique German crankshaft pulley. Approximately at bottom dead center. With a grinder, 3° wide. 


Remember way back when I said I’d like to put crank-triggered electronic ignition and fuel injection on this car? I still do. More than ever.

Edited by Ulu
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The CHP inspector came to my house today and I have the signed papers in hand. It’s all paid for & I will have a title and tags soon.


I hope. I am waiting at the DMV again….



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The DMV was a breeze and now I have plates and reg and a title on the way.

I spent some time mounting the rear plate, but the front one will be a bit of work.


I just realized that I have not owned a roadster since 1975. My second car was a ‘64 MG Midget. I still have dreams about that car at night sometimes.

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The license plate and tail light bracket arrangement on this car is really a flimsy business.


The original Jag system had the tail lights mounted on a bracket, and the plates were suspended from that.


This design has the plate and the lamp and a lamp bracket flapping from one flimsy stamped stainless steel horror.


Of course I made this even worse by putting some heavy chrome plated license frames on. Pushing the tail lights out another half an inch and adding lots of weight to the flapping bracket.


I was planning to take those brackets off and mount tail lights to the fenders using some model-A brackets. However the model-A brackets do not give me a good angle on the tail lamps, and relocating those will leave a bunch of ugly holes to fill in the back of the car where they are extremely visible.


I need to figure out a way to modify the brackets I have to be strong, and at the same time not ugly-up the back of the car.

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What he did was verify what my original VIN was, and what year the car was manufactured, and what kind of car it was. Then he signed the paper and I took it to the DMV.


Call the highway patrol HQ in Fresno and tell them you need a VIN verification for the DMV on your project vehicle. Ask them to send an inspector to your house.


You probably need the papers from the DMV in advance, so he will have something to sign.


The guy that came to my house had to go to Clovis, West Fresno and Sanger so I’m sure he will come to Reedley.

Edited by Ulu
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14 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I believe I would look at mount it and a light, bottom of the rear bumper centered to the car....balance, functionality for less chance of flap and getting you coat tail snagged. . .


I’ve looked at dozens of photographs of 1937 Jaguars and they all have two lights and two plates arranged approximately like mine. They also have much sturdier tail light brackets, and this is my goal now.

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got you....you still wish this style mount...just not  happy with the flimsy bracket, being you have both on your car, I agree in maintaining the look and balance and the holes are already in the glass body. (I did not look at the right light in your picture)....you lucky your kit had the twin mounts and lights and not used the original VW lamps instead like a number of kits used.  If the metal is real flimsy and say chromed light gauge steel, perhaps you can get a set duplicated in a heavier gauge stainless and give them a high luster finish on the ole buffing wheel.   Even light gauge stainless if resistant to flex and bend.

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These brackets are made from flat pressed stainless steel but they are not well engineered. They might’ve been OK if they were twice as thick but even then they would have been wobbly in my imagination.


The original car had brackets with some section to them, that were made from pressed steel (painted black) or possibly even castings. I can’t tell from the photos that I have.


They mount with the same triangular pattern of bolts, but considerably higher on the car. It wouldn’t bother me at all to make some by hand with a hammer and a torch and a grinder.


I live only a mile and a half from one of the top chrome shops in California. I would take them and have them plated. My windshield frame needs to be re-plated badly, so I will be visiting them eventually.



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Sacramento or Lodi?


Both are very good but $$$.



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On 1/15/2022 at 1:31 PM, DJ194950 said:

Sacramento or Lodi?


Both are very good but $$$.



Valley Chrome in Clovis

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I changed my voltage regulator yesterday. This is the third one and son of a gun, when I started it up it didn’t show a charge. GIRrrrr….


I didn’t occur to me at the time that I might have a defective ammeter, because I did actually see it show a charge and a discharge when I put the electronic voltage regulator on the car.


It stopped quick and I blamed the regulator and changed it again. To No avail.


After I had shut the engine off I thought to beep the horn and watch the ammeter move, and son of a gun, it wasn’t moving. Then I put a real load on it with the highbeams and son of a gun it really moved.


So I think my ammeter is sticky.

Temporarily I will clip a voltmeter on the wiring and go drive it today to see what happens.

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I put the front plate on with rubber insulated clamps on top, and on the bottom I tapped some 1/4-20s into the fiberglass, which is quite thick at that point. I don’t have all the chrome hardware on yet and those ugly carriage bolts holding the bumper on are not in the same place.


I marked the ugly ragged fender tips with blue tape and a sharpie.




This is after trimming them off with a cut off wheel, and flat sanding with a long board to make them even.



I did some touch up paint with a little brush & some matching red from my huge collection of skateboard paints.


There are lots of chips and rough edges which need trimming and filling, but all I did is touchup the bits that you could see easily.


Edited by Ulu
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Thank you. It’s a fun project. I let it languish for quite a while because my wife ticked me off.


There’s no reason my wife can’t park outside of my garage. But she demanded to park in the garage.


Whenever she demanded to park in the garage I just quit working on the car. It took her almost 6 months to get the message.


The thing is, when I got this car I was kind of disappointed. If my wife had not fallen in love with this car, I would have just flipped it; So that crap was a little hard to take.


Anyhow today I got around to working on the trim plate for the steering shaft.


This was once a chunk of commercial aluminum window sill, 0.1” thick (before I sanded the snot out of it.)

Making the rough pattern:


Hogging it out:


Slitting the slot:


Sanded but not buffed:


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OK I got the steering column disassembled and removed so that I could do the first test fitting on the trim plate.


It was cold in the garage, so I heated up the plate and the paint with a heat gun, in a box, before I shot the paint.


First time that I have been able to actually lay this on the fender, as the steering column is now removed.




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