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Oil Pan Issues


Kai-by-Vecona

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Hi everybody,

 

removed the oil pan of my 42 Coupe last week because it was leaking. Never changed the gasket since I bought the car in 2012 and I guess it was there forever. Normally the surface of the pan should be flat to avoid leaking again but when I put a ruler on it the surface looks like the Rockys.

I guess it's pretty unimpossible to find a good new one in Germany so what's your opinion. Should I try to straighten the pan or leave it as it is with enough sealer on the cork gasket? My idea was to built me a U-shaped tool with a thread in the middle to push down the screw holes ... has anybody tried that before or has anybody another idea?

 

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It has been overtightened. 
i always check and straighten them. A small ball-pein hammer and use the round end to beat them back down. Many current vehicles use a flat bar to add extra support to prevent this from happening. 
take care when tightening, i prefer a nut driver over a ratchet. If i do use a ratchet, 1/4 drive and just snug. 

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Agree with Tooljunkie......worth trying to flatten the holes down, might also try to use a brass or steel drift like a 5/8 to 3/4 round piece of bar and with another piece of steel the same size held in a vice and tap it flat........... also I would once its back to being flat I'd use some contact adhesive on the pan rails to glue the gasket on that side so that it stays in place when you tighten the bolts with a light film of gasket sealer  between the gasket and the engine block.....or glue the gasket to the engine block ...........and they don't need to be extra tight......"snug" is the best description.....firm but not over tight..........we have the same situation here in Oz  although whilst we had these mopars sold here they are in no way thick on the ground so we also have to rebuild or recondition what we have........you'll be fine........regards from oz.....andyd   

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I agree with the earlier advice.   My tools of choice for this are usually used in body work, a flat-faced hammer and dolly.  Just work them down flat or slightly concave.  And,  silicone gasket maker/sealer is your friend. I don't try to apply a consistent bead as usually directed as that never seems to work for me.  Just get a bead on there and don a disposable glove to spread it to a thin coat that won't extrude into the engine when tightened.  Also a little in the corners helps the cork to compress evenly and fills any minute gaps.

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I haven't removed my oil pan since the engine was rebuilt and I can't tell where I have a leak.  But I think it might be that the rebuilder may not have over lapped the front and side gasket.  make sure that you do that. I never had a leak.

 

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54 minutes ago, 48ply1stcar said:

I haven't removed my oil pan since the engine was rebuilt and I can't tell where I have a leak.  But I think it might be that the rebuilder may not have over lapped the front and side gasket.  make sure that you do that. I never had a leak.

 

If the rebuilder wasn't experienced with them, he/she may have trimmed the end gaskets.  They really look too long to the inexperienced. 

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One last suggestion . . . To make the pan easier to install you can get four longer pan bolts, perhaps 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch.  Start the longer bolts on the ends to pull the pan up against the protruding gasket ends.  After the rest of the bolts are started you can replace the longer bolts with the regular ones.

 

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