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Can I put a vacuum advance distributor in my 1950 B2D?


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I have a 1950 B2D pickup. I have gone through everything including the fuel system and electrical and the truck only goes about 50 mph. I don't know if that was common back in the day for this truck or not. When I am on the highway and go up a steep grade it will drop down to 40.  This truck does not have a vacuum advance on the distributor-from the factory it looks like! Can I put a newer distributor with a vacuum advance on this truck. I don't know if it's possible but and electronic ignition would be even better! I just put one on my 65 Plymouth and it really helps!  All help appreciated. Thanks, Tracy in Omaha. 

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No reason why you can’t. 
my 51 218 has. Sadly, the vacuum can has gone bad and i have yet to get it on the road. 
somewhere here on the forum someone has adapted slant 6 parts into the older distributor,allowing electronic ignition to be used. 
 

in your case, check the timing, maybe a couple degrees advance will help the highway speed. Also,fuel delivery may be an issue too. Weak pump or dirty carb may play a part as well. 
a worn timing chain may play a part as well. 

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I put a Langdon’s Stovebolt Mini HEI distributer on my 51 B3B.   You have to have 12 volts, but the kit pretty much has everything you need including the coil. As for speed, while I was rebuilding the truck, I installed a 3.55 rear axle from a Jeep Cherokee.  I can run 55 to 60 pretty easily on the flat, but it will still slow down climbing hills, with my single barrel carburetor it’s still no muscle car 

Bill

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to the op

There are probably a couple of contributing factors in regards to speed. Gearing and perhaps your distributor. As far as gearing goes the a 3.73 rear axle is probably optimum. Many of us have changed out rear axles and there is much to be gained from doing so. I have a 3.55 in my daily driver and it will do well over 70 on the freeway. That said I think these trucks are always happiest and more enjoyable at speeds of 45 to 60mph.

You may have a distributor off one of the industrial engines. These were meant to run long periods at fixed rpms.....so no vaccum advance. You can do as one of the other posters suggests or simply find a correct model distributor with V/A used. I have a 6v positive ground Pertronix module in my original distributor and it has performed flawlessly for about 7 years. Just be sure to make certain whatever distributor you use is in good working order and has little or no slop in it.

Hth, Jeff

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B series 1 ton trucks don't use vacuum advance distributors from the factory.

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I converted the truck to 12 volts last year.  It does get up to 55-60 downhill, but 50 is all I get on the level-sounds like that is about right for my setup. I was looking at converting to electronic ignition. I saw one on the internet for around $200 complete with the vacuum advance distributor. I might try that. I already put a new mechanical fuel pump on and backed it up with a Holley electric to the pump. That did seem to help-I could barely get to 40 before!  I don't want to change the gearing. My manual says it is 3.90 and that seems about right to me. I will try the electronic and let you know. It will be a while though as my neighbors 100' tree just fell on my garage and machine shop. A total loss along with 2 of my classic cars. 

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A lot of 1 tons use the 4.3 ratio.

I've never seen or found a 3.9 or 4.1 for my truck in the last 40 years.

Mine will easily do 55 with the 4.3 and the 265 engine.Hills no issue at all.

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Vacuum advance can cause too much spark timing for a heavy truck .

All 1 tons and up to the 4 tonners don't use advance cans to prevent excessive timing problems.

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I did not notice that you truck is a 1 ton. Makes changing the rear axle to something easier on the revs more difficult.

 

I think the reason that the factory eliminated the vacuum advance on heavier models was to help prevent them from over revving. A real potential with very low gearing

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I can't find the spec right now but I seem to remember that the trucks without vacuum advance has a lot more centrifugal advance than cars and pickups.  Probably chosen due to the high load and low vacuum conditions 1 ton and bigger often were subjected to. 

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If you do have 3.90 gears in your 1 ton truck you are a very lucky guy. As Rob stated, most have 4.30 gears. Back to you lack of power issue... Have you checked that you are getting full throttle when you mash the ‘go pedal’? Also, how is your air filter? Is your engine able to get enough air to breath? 

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2 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

I did not notice that you truck is a 1 ton. Makes changing the rear axle to something easier on the revs more difficult.

 

I think the reason that the factory eliminated the vacuum advance on heavier models was to help prevent them from over revving. A real potential with very low gearing

The heavier trucks...excluding one tons used engine speed governors to prevent over revving.

Generally around 3200 rpm max.

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 I did set the timing to 10 before. Seems to help around town. I haven't taken it on the highway yet. A vacuum advance will not help increase speed?  I didn't know that. As far as the rear end ratio I was looking at the service manual which lists 3.90 for most including mine. Is there another way to tell without lifting the rear end? 

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One thing we have to consider when talking about this subject is what the actual condition of this particular distributor is?

It could be fairly worn and perhaps the advance mechanism needs attention? Might make sense to find someone who has the necessary equipment and skills and have them check it over. This is somewhat specialized service and needs to be looked at carefully.

 

Sometimes I think we tend to forget that this stuff is getting fairly old and may require more than just some tune up parts. The overall build quality of these trucks continues to amaze me. I still am impressed at how reliable and trouble free my truck has been for the last 5 years. But even that doesn't eliminate the fact that certain things do wear out and need attention.

Jeff

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1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

One thing we have to consider when talking about this subject is what the actual condition of this particular distributor is?

It could be fairly worn and perhaps the advance mechanism needs attention? Might make sense to find someone who has the necessary equipment and skills and have them check it over. This is somewhat specialized service and needs to be looked at carefully.

 

Sometimes I think we tend to forget that this stuff is getting fairly old and may require more than just some tune up parts. The overall build quality of these trucks continues to amaze me. I still am impressed at how reliable and trouble free my truck has been for the last 5 years. But even that doesn't eliminate the fact that certain things do wear out and need attention.

Jeff

Good point!

One can do a 'quick and dirty' test with a timing light.  Use a piece of tape to transfer  timing marks and extend them 10-15 degrees.  That makes them much easier to see.  Nice light colored tape and a black sharpie works well.  With that stuck to the crank pulley, the data from your manual, a timing light and a tachometer you can determine if the advance is working.  Not as accurate as a real distributor machine, but a sticky mechanism or non-working will show up clearly.  Along with a dwell meter(worn bushings will result in unstable dwell readings) they can give your distributor a clean bill of health or indicate the need for removal and repair.

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Yes, the 3.91 and 4.10 1 ton ratio’s are very hard to find. The VD & WD 1 ton trucks could be ordered with the 3.91 also, but again very rare. The only other option is to find a 54-56 Functional Design 1 Ton or the 57-59 Power Giant 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4x2 trucks with the 4.10 ratio. I have 4.30’s in my 1941WC 1/1 ton Military 4x4 along with the larger 900-16 tires. With the T-118 IND-7(236) in it I can cruise at about 60 with the Tach showing around 2500 RPM’s. Small hills I can keep it in 4th, anything more than that it’s downshifting time. I do have a set of 4.10 third members which I plan on installing in the truck one of these days and return to the original 750-16 tires. It will increase the RPM’s about  200 or so, but the smaller tires and wheels will save weight thus more pick up and less shifting on hills. 

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