Jump to content
DJK

Salvageable or not???

Recommended Posts

Sure, $50-$150 a piece to rechrome them, alsa easychrome or chrome fx along with some lab metal is probably the closest analog to actually re chroming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my opinion, this is one area where the line is drawn between a great daily driver and a trophy car. Secondly, between the.less wealthy hobbiest and the person of means who can have it as he wishes.  I appreciate both. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's going to be a driver. I'm thinking fill the pits w/ JB weld, take them to the local powder coat guy and see if he will coat them. If not, I'll shoot them w/ silver paint and clear coat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of those pieces look salvageable but some are pitted too badly to be of much use (tail light bezels for example). Check ebay on a regular basis as you will often find those pieces in much better shape and at a reasonable cost. Even a daily driver deserves to have better chrome than some of those items. I'm not being nasty but just adding my two nickels worth (the cent is no longer in use in Canada and hasn't been for years).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I've used on rusty chrome pieces is a SOS pad.

Sounds crazy but I've cleaned up parts I thought were kind of hopeless.

The combination of high quality 00 steel wool and the soap they put in them really take the rust off and shine the chrome.

On pot metal they will remove a lot of tarnish and smooth the surface making it seem a whole lot brighter.

Worth a try for a driver and it's a cheap fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

while a nickel or two in cost, killer chrome deposition spray is an alternative.....Killer Chrome by ALSA

 

My bumpers were rusted and pitted. I buffed the chrome with a wire wheel then sanded with 80 grit. Used body filler to fill in the pits then primed with POR15 and painted with chrome paint. Wasn't Killer Chrome, I used Eastwood chrome paint. It was cheaper but Killer Chrome is suppose to be top of the line.

IMG_1982.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

People can write what ever they want in product reviews, but the one for Killer Chrome I read yesterday was not very favorable.  One of the biggest criticisms was that it could not be touched up later, and this would seem rather important for something like a bumper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

another factor in the not so perfect world of the old car hobby....you got chrome, faux chrome and plain ole paint....pick you poison...if scratched dented or damaged it entails repair.  Guess what...chrome is not spotted in either and I would think Alsa chrome paint being metal deposition would fall in this category.  Best of any silvers paints clear coated and or powder, none come close to real chrome....Killer Chrome does...what look do you want..still refinishing Killer over real chrome is cost effective...painting with silver is by far cheaper but compared to look of chrome, paint looks cheap...pay to play....pony up or ride off into the sunset...the best is not free and rarely cheap.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

People can write what ever they want in product reviews, but the one for Killer Chrome I read yesterday was not very favorable.  One of the biggest criticisms was that it could not be touched up later, and this would seem rather important for something like a bumper.

I did not read any favorable reviews on Killer Chrome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen the best of refinished products destroyed by most folks be it shop or DIY....is it in the hand of the qualified user or the hand of the abuser...I think in this case it is the cost that drives replies over actual results....many will not pony up for the initial cost, when they do pay, they do not follow the directions...then get mad at the product for their failure.  I have seen plenty of DIY work posted here, I need not say more...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, to answer your question, yes, those pieces are indeed salvageable.  I have seen far worse restored nicely.  Just how nicely (if at all) depends on how much you want to spend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/24/2020 at 8:17 AM, Dan Hiebert said:

So, to answer your question, yes, those pieces are indeed salvageable.  I have seen far worse restored nicely.  Just how nicely (if at all) depends on how much you want to spend.

I agree 100%. Mine looked like yours and the chromer made them look like new. How ever be warned, not many places still doing it and it is not cheep. I have more dollars in the chrome than any other single part of the restoration. I would like to do more but i had to draw the line somewhere. 

Edited by LazyK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had two front bumper guards that I found at a swap meet for $5 each.  Not damaged at all but really dull and lackluster.  I just cleaned the surfaces well and very lightly scuffed it. Used regular chrome paint(three or four coats) and for my usage, ie driver, it looks great.  Remember that at 70 mph at midnight no one will notice.

Edited by plymouthcranbrook

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was fortunate in that my pieces were very good, most if not all had none or very little pitting. It still cost an arm and leg to rechrome them. It depends on what you are willing to accept and pay for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

However you proceed, be careful on the taillight bezels because they have the reflectors crimped-in.  In another thread someone found that some bicycle reflectors are the same size and can be glued-in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With JB weld used as filler, sanding, several coats of primer/filler, more sanding, Rustoleum silver paint, at 55 mph you won't notice the imperfections!!!!! As far as the reflectors, they were previously painted over w/ a very dull silver paint, cleaned that off, applied thin layer of vaseline before primer and painting, worked great. Again, it's a driver, not a show car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't body filler be better for a smooth finish than JB Weld? Sure does sand easier....

Edited by Sam Buchanan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Body filler can be subject to moisture pickup, JB weld is not. But maybe being painted the filler could work?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Dartgame said:

Body filler can be subject to moisture pickup, JB weld is not. But maybe being painted the filler could work?

 

Well......it works on car bodies.......in both cases primer and paint seal filler from moisture.  :)

Edited by Sam Buchanan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the JB weld in anticipation of possible powder coating, decided against that. It wasn't bad to smooth out w/ my angle grinder, I   removed all the JB down to the pits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use