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Steering wheel removal


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I use standard automotive primers..I usually mix my own (thinned primer/surfacer)   For the topcoat, I have not applied that yet as it will be matching to my secondary color of my two tone theme and will be catalyzed enamel for the added wear characteristics...I have not shot any secondary color on this project...got plenty of small stay prepped and placed aside for when I do.  Both my wheels are still in primer. 

 

The 1968 two spoker will probably be placed on the 54 split window Morris coupe along with the larger engine from the 68 model as I am placing a 300cc larger displacement that has 50% more HP in the '68 with a 5 speed with OD fifth and dumping the 4.55 for a 3.9 ratio.  Got to get this baby set up with longer legs for the new modern highway....disc up front already mounted.  But that is another story....  

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Well, it is by no means perfect, but in the words of my wife...”if you keep working that wheel, it will be too pretty to put on the truck.  It’s not perfect, but nothing on that old Dodge is.”  Words to live by.  It retains some of the bumps and dings from 70 yrs of use, it fits my truck perfectly, it is original, it looks 1000 percent better than it did, and most importantly, I’m happy with it.

 

 

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I scored a nearly new B-1 steering wheel awhile back on eBay for a modest price, to replace the one on my '49 that was crumbling...that's when I realized how pronounced the ribs opposite of the grips are...rather than build up those areas with epoxy and file each rib by hand, which probably wouldn't look very uniform, I stewed on making a mold from the donor.  Then the worn steering wheel could be set in the mold for an epoxy pour of uniform cross-section.  But that's sketched on the notepad next to the economical door check repair kit that I was cobbling together several years ago...kinda got sidetracked :rolleyes:

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4 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I scored a nearly new B-1 steering wheel awhile back on eBay for a modest price, to replace the one on my '49 that was crumbling...that's when I realized how pronounced the ribs opposite of the grips are...rather than build up those areas with epoxy and file each rib by hand, which probably wouldn't look very uniform, I stewed on making a mold from the donor.  Then the worn steering wheel could be set in the mold for an epoxy pour of uniform cross-section.  But that's sketched on the notepad next to the economical door check repair kit that I was cobbling together several years ago...kinda got sidetracked :rolleyes:

 

Might have some time on your hands now to pick it back up?

 

I remember hearing someone was repopping the B1 B2 steering wheels a few years back?

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22 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I scored a nearly new B-1 steering wheel awhile back on eBay for a modest price, to replace the one on my '49 that was crumbling...that's when I realized how pronounced the ribs opposite of the grips are...rather than build up those areas with epoxy and file each rib by hand, which probably wouldn't look very uniform, I stewed on making a mold from the donor.  Then the worn steering wheel could be set in the mold for an epoxy pour of uniform cross-section.  But that's sketched on the notepad next to the economical door check repair kit that I was cobbling together several years ago...kinda got sidetracked :rolleyes:

There is a video on YouTube where a guy had a banjo wheel for some oddball application where there were absolutely no replacements other than a different style.  He ended up doing like you say, removing the banjo metal and hub, making a mold and pouring epoxy for the wheel part.  He actually had a company do it for him.  Very intensive pattern making, but once it was right, it worked out really well and now there is a source for that banjo wheel application.  It was interesting to watch the process.

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Perfect timing for this post. I just removed my stearing wheel and ordered the putty to fix it. Thanks for the info.

 

I wasn't able to get a good grip on the metal bottom with any of my pullers and I was worried about further cracking the wheel, so I made a bracket to fit under it. Figured it might spur someone else if they are stuck. The cutout was just wide enough to fit around the column but sat perfectly on the metal bottom of the stearing wheel. A lot of PB and a tap from the hammer and it popped off. 

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6 hours ago, JBNeal said:

this was the video that I found awhile back that might help with my to-do list...

 

 

 

awesome video, show why it' SOOO expensive to repop these things!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/14/2020 at 7:08 PM, Fiddy B2C said:

So, when I re-install the wheel, how are the spokes positioned when going straight?  Is there a spoke pointing up or are there spokes at the 10 and 2 position?

When I was restoring my truck I saw the photos in Bunn’s book. As I remember, one of the photos looked like a “factory” or sales photo. It had a spoke at 9:00. I think most, if not all, three-spoke wheels are oriented at 10:00, 2:00 and 6:00. I thought if an official Chrysler Corporation photo showed 9:00, 1:00 and 4:00 (roughly) there must be a reason. I decided it was to give the best view of the gauges. Like Merle, I like to drive with left arm hanging out the window and this allows me to hold the suicide knob.

 

 

670076E8-6555-4A76-9B37-8DADB1BC5AA3.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Stay with an epoxy based primer and epoxy based color . Epoxy is resin based and very resistant to "use".  It's high impact and difficult to sand smooth. The steering wheel doesn't need butt smooth, it needs durability against hand contact and torque.

 

48D

* Guess my comment was a lil late to the show...hope it helps someone. :)

    

Edited by 48Dodger
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I just finished my 51 B3B steering wheel a few days ago. My wheel had five major cracks around the rim and all three spokes were cracked at the hub. I used a Dremel tool with a tungsten carbide cutter to widen out the cracks then I filled the cracks with a product called PlastiFix.

https://www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/steering-wheel-restoration

By far the most time consuming part was sanding down the PlasiFix. To do that I used the Dremel tool again, but with a cylindrical sanding wheel to remove the bulk of the excess material then finished sanding it by hand with 400 grit. After wiping off the wheel with solvent to remove any grease, I gave the whole wheel a light 400 grit sanding and gave it two coats of high build 2K primer, sanded down the primer with 400 grit again until it was nice and smooth, and finished up with three coats of 2K high gloss chassis black. The cleaning solvent, primer, and paint I used are from Eastwood and seemed to work fine. 

 

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Edited by Jocko_51_B3B
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Nice Job!!!

AAA+++

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