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Starting my B2C restoration.


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8 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

This is my first time, do you block on epoxy primer or a high build?  This is just epoxy primer to cover the metal. I'm still trying to figure out all this bodywork stuff. 

Epoxy is a high resin primer for sealing up metal and/or body work. Its not really meant for shaping.

Urethane primers (High build)are soft for shaping/blocking .....think of it as liquid body filler. 

When you're done with shaping you'd be wise to toughen it up with an Epoxy primer.

When you head in the booth to paint color, you may choose to shoot the Epoxy again (thinned down) as a sealer (wet).

Paint is very sensitive to oils and grease.....even if you hit it with wax and grease, so a wet sealer helps make a chemical bond vs a mechanical bond (sand marks) for the color coat. 

 

Here's the dig......most primer company's will try and say its a shaping primer and a sealer primer in the same can. 

Be careful.....try to keep your primers separate IMO

 

for fun...1974 Dart thread

 

48D

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11 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

The one with the horse head is from Freedom's Edge Brewing Co. in Cheyenne, WY. 

 

My wife likes to collect growlers from where we are stationed or visit. 

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Cool! Let me know if you ever have extra's...I have about 450 in my collection.

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Most epoxies I'm familiar with prefer to have the high build sprayed within a certain time window to get a chemical bond.  When that doesn't happen, the tech sheets often suggest scuffing the epoxy before the high build goes on to achieve a mechanical bond so I take advantage  of that scuff requirement to do some initial blocking.  All my final blocking is done on a high build 2k primer.  Get the tech sheets for your choice of paint line and follow the application directions.  Those will give you your best shot at success.  Just the method that works for me with the products I have.  Others have success with other methods

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25 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

Hey there Mr. Moderator... You should know that soliciting for spare parts or goods on the main forums is prohibited. ??

not truck parts!  :P

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  • 1 month later...

Started doing some metal work to try and get everything in primer before we move. 

 

While removing the paint on the truck, I realized someone had tried to do a repair in the past.  After removing a LOT of body filler I got down to their "repair" and realized just how bad it was.  2 questions:
1) What was the reason for the 2 bolts going through the side to hold the mounting bracket? Did they provide some structural support? Why not just weld the bracket on and have a cleaner appearance?
2) Is the long flat rectangular piece of metal I'm pointing at supposed to be there?  It looks like someone shoved it in there as part of their repair. It's along the long edge. 

Thanks

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The upper fender support was riveted to the fender and has been a source of contention for years. Moisture and crap tends to get in between the support and the fender and rot that area. Many repair as you have and then weld the support in place, eliminating the rivets. When I repaired mine I put carriage bolts back in to simulate the rivets, because I wanted to maintain the original look. They are more decorative than structural. 

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To clarify Merle's LAST comment:  if you weld the bracket in place the bolts would be decorative.   As designed the rivets hold it all together.   Personally, I like the look of them as the SCREAM "DODGE" vs. ferd or chebby.

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To make it a bit more confusing, there is supposed to be a plate between the fender and the bracket and it IS spot welded to the fender.  FEF has reworked carriage bolts and they ARE functional.

 

there is a rectangular piece at the bottom of the A pillars if that's where the other piece is from

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In my oldest videos from over 10 years ago (geez) i show the front end broken down.

It might help.

 

48D

 

Estrada Motorsports Front End Series 1

Estrada Motorsports Front End Series 2

Estrada Motorsports Front End Series 3

Estrada Motorsports Front End Series 4

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Thanks for all the replies. It explains a lot and also provides some more details for what I need to do to fix these areas. I'm new to metal fab with limited tools, so remaking parts that would have been pressed is going to be a slow process.

 

Knock on wood, so far these are the only major rust areas I've found. 

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