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Starting my B2C restoration.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Mounted the block and gave the exterior a cleaning before painting. Used the new gaskets as templates for cutting the paint t. Overall I'm happy with the results, but realized I missed a couple spots of oil on the block as some of the paint didn't adhere. I'll repaint those areas once I get everything together. 

 

Today I mounted the timing chain sprocket by heating the sprocket and pressed the flywheel bolts to the crank. Also thanks to some advice on here I fit the rope into my rear seals. 

 

If anyone sees something that doesn't look right please let me know. This is my first time rebuilding an engine. 

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Got some feedback that the "drag" is normal with the rope seal. Mine was about 35 ft/lbs to start turning. However I did remove the rear seal/crank as I was also told I should have soaked the rope in oil. I really wish my shop manual had more details for this part of the install. I'm sure it was common knowledge 70 years ago, but not a lot of help now. 

 

I was able to install the chain case cover and the timing gears/chain. Used the supplied o-rings to cut to small rubber piece for the front seal.

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It was a good couple days, got some work done on the engine. Realized I had the oil pump off by 2 teeth and made the adjustment. Installed the head and started working on the cooling parts.  I think my favorite pick is the clean cooling tube, espicially after all the work to get the old one out. 

 

I'm not sure why some of my photos are being turned. 

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Made some more progress on the engine, unfortunately I have an oil leak around the oil pan drain plug. I've tried a couple of things to see if I can get the plug to seal, but it looks like the oil is seeping out between the pan and the collar. So I'm going to pull the pan and see if I can figure out the leak, really glad I didn't use sealant on the top of the cork gasket. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I was making good progress but today hit a huge issue.  Over the weekend I had everything together so I started walking through my first start checklist. Did an oil pressure check without any spark plugs, 10 lbs at cranking speed so I installed the spark plugs and proceeded to start it. After I realized my oil pump was off by one gear I adjusted it and it started for a few seconds before stopping. I figured I just needed to adjust the carb, and called it a night. 

 

Went to start it today and it just turned over.  Started checking and realized I wasn't getting a spark.  Turned the engine over without the distributor cap on and realized it wasn't spinning. I'm getting worried.  Pulled the distributor and everything was ok with it.  So I pulled the Brand New oil pump.  It won't turn and when I was trying to start the engine it sheared off a couple teeth.

 

Now I'm draining the oil pan to pull it and check for any other damage. I'm enjoying working on the truck, but days like today are frustrating. 

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Well I have to say this has me a little worried, I was wondering, and about to ask the question. Do you change or rebuild oil pumps I see some of the rebuild kits come with them some don't.

 

Wondering what brand pump you had?

 

I'm still at the machine work stage but I will keep my eye on this thread.

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9 hours ago, billrigsby said:

Well I have to say this has me a little worried, I was wondering, and about to ask the question. Do you change or rebuild oil pumps I see some of the rebuild kits come with them some don't.

 

Wondering what brand pump you had?

 

I'm still at the machine work stage but I will keep my eye on this thread.

Mine was brand new, the one I pulled out of the engine had a crack that wasn't repairable. It was a Melling M-37, the only brand I could find. I ordered mine from Summit Racing and they are sending a new one under warranty. 

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Looking at the cam, I have one tooth that has a nick out of the front (not sure if this is new) and another that looks like it drug along the oil pump. I'm planning on seeing if I can smooth them a little without tearing apart the engine. Then I'm going to put the new oil pump in and watch how the gears mesh. I'm hoping that I dont have to pull it all apart.  

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17 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

Looking at the cam, I have one tooth that has a nick out of the front (not sure if this is new) and another that looks like it drug along the oil pump. I'm planning on seeing if I can smooth them a little without tearing apart the engine. Then I'm going to put the new oil pump in and watch how the gears mesh. I'm hoping that I dont have to pull it all apart.  

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eek, that doesn't look good, hoping you are good to go w/o tearing things back down.

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Kind of like the 'you can pay now or pay later' oil commercials...

I'd rather pull it now rather than later.  ?

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So I posted about my oil pump on a Flathead 6 facebook page and had a handful of other people respond that their pump had failed.  I was amazed that this is a recurring problem. I received my new pump, but before I install it I'm sending it out to have it gone through. I'm also pulling apart a spare engine I have to hopefully find a useable cam. 

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1 minute ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

So I posted about my oil pump on a Flathead 6 facebook page and had a handful of other people respond that their pump had failed.  I was amazed that this is a recurring problem. I received my new pump, but before I install it I'm sending it out to have it gone through. I'm also pulling apart a spare engine I have to hopefully find a useable cam. 

 

Did not want to hear that, just got a big 'box-o-parts' today, including a Melling Oil Pump.  ?

 

What FaceBook page?

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I think I have four MOPars to choose from (one rusted solid)!

To the crates tomorrow (if it gets above 22°)  ?

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