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disc brake conversion 48 Chrysler Windsor


harmony

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I know this is not a new topic, however the last one I could find was from 2014. So perhaps there might be some new information regarding this.

I have a 48 Chrysler Windsor and I'm seriously considering doing a front disc brake conversion. I've gone to a company that comes highly and often recomended as the go to guys in my area that do conversions.  However they have never done one on my particular car, so they suggested I do the leg work to keep the cost down.  I'm just starting to gather info but I'm hoping someone here might head me in the "best" direction to save time. 

Scarbird offers a kit for 12" drums but mine are 11"  

I haven't measured my spindles yet, but according to RustyHope's website there are two sizes. 1.250 OD or 1.375 OD  or an undersize kit at 1.189 OD. 

Butchescoolstuff.com offers a dual master cylinder with an offset booster which I'll need.  It doesn't specify on their website what cars it fits so the mounting holes may need to be compared etc. 

It doesn't look like there is a company that supplies a complete kit which would be preferred so as to be assured that all components were compatible, so I'll just have to compile a list and then go see the guys doing the job and they will probably add or subtract to that list once they get my car up on the hoist and take measurements before I make any purchases.  As I mentioned I'm pretty green on this conversion so I'm not sure if I can reuse my hubs or if I'll need new ones.  I'll contact the 3 businesses that I just mentioned to see what they suggest unless someone hear says "stay clear".  Plus I'll keep digging and looking for other sources if necessary.  I'm going to be replacing the tires soon but I'll be sticking with a classic narrow profile so I don't think I would have turning radius rubbing issues no matter what I choose.

 

So I'm hoping someone has done this recently and can suggest any does and don't and the best route to take.

As usual thanks to all who have any suggestions or thoughts.

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I was just crawling around under my car taking a measurement of the bolt spacing on my master cylinder, which would be replaced with a dual chamber one and a booster, and realized that there is no way possible to fit a power booster in the area in front of the master cylinder.  That area is congested with transmission linkage and the cross member/trans support is right inline with the front of the master cylinder where the plunger or piston enters, so even if there wasn't linkage to contend with the size and shape of the power booster wouldn't fit with that cross member/trans support being in the way .  I was told by the people that would be doing the conversion that their experience with electric boosters is that they are unreliable.  They also said without a booster it is extremely hard to apply pressure on the pedal to stop the car.   The other issue with a dual chamber master cylinder is filling it.  The inspection plate on the floor is big enough to get the round plug out.  But with a dual chamber master cylinder the floor opening would have to be made quite a bit bigger and then a new plate/cover fabricated.    I was told that if the master cylinder was mounted on the firewall it would become quite costly  to mount everything and to create linkage from the brake pedal. 

So does anybody know how this part of the conversion is accomplished?

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I've moved a few different Mopar cars/trucks brake and clutch pedal assemblies to the firewall. I usually use Jeep brake/clutch pedal assemblies and convert the clutch to hydraulic. The parts themselves run about $500 but it is a pretty good amount of fabricating. You need a welder. But the results are nice. 

pedals.jpeg

mc.jpeg

slave.jpeg

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