homer41 Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 I am about to plumb up my oil filter on my 218 in my 41 plymouth. Would it be all right to plump it up with all hard tubing or does it need to have flex tubing? Should there be an orifice somewhere to restrict flow? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 Factory style oil filters are mounted on the engine so there should be no motion between the filter, the tap off the main oil gallery, and the return valve. So hard lines should be fine and are what were used from the factory. The return valve setup is supposed to restrict flow when the oil pressure in the gallery drops, so I don't think an additional restriction on the inlet to a bypass filter is needed. All bets on the above are off if you are installing some sort of filter designed for full flow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homer41 Posted February 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 I am talking about a bypass filter. Could you describe a bit more what you re talking about with the return valve, is it interal? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 It's a pressure valve in the block that won;t let oil flow thru the filter until there is sufficient pressure in the system. This is to ensure the engine gets properly oiled and isn't starved for oil. A more modern oil filter setup takes the output of the oil pump, filters all of the oil and sends all of the oil to the engine to lubricate it. Out bypass filters tap into the main oil gallery and takes a portion of that oil, runs it thru the filter and dumps it back into the sump. That portion of oil isn't used to lubricate the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 (edited) On 1/31/2020 at 11:03 PM, homer41 said: I am about to plumb up my oil filter on my 218 in my 41 plymouth. Would it be all right to plump it up with all hard tubing or does it need to have flex tubing? Should there be an orifice somewhere to restrict flow? Dave Are you going with a original style cannister or a spin-on filter? Edited February 4, 2020 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homer41 Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Going with canister type filter. My concern was, do I need an orifice somewhere, seems the concensus is that I do not need one. Thanks to everyone! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 I used this aftermarket Beehive Filter that as it was mounted on the firewall I used braided stainless lines to the oil gallery, seemed to work o/k........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 4, 2020 Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 Just replaced my return line, the flanges portion had cracked under the fitting. I just used a already flanged piece of that new nickle alloy brake line and put an S bend in it to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted February 4, 2020 Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, greg g said: Just replaced my return line, the flanges portion had cracked under the fitting. I just used a already flanged piece of that new nickle alloy brake line and put an S bend in it to fit. Same here, short lengths of pre-flared brake line worked great for my filter installation: Edited February 4, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 4, 2020 Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 So is this "Great minds think a like?" or "Fools seldom disagree!" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted February 4, 2020 Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 4 minutes ago, greg g said: So is this "Great minds think a like?" or "Fools seldom disagree!" ? Or, 'Great minds think alike', and sometimes we do too? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 20 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: Same here, short lengths of pre-flared brake line worked great for my filter installation: Doing almost the same thing. using a similar housing and a small oil filter. Oil will get changed often so no concern about the size. As far as filtration, the pressure relief valve in filter wont be a concern as its a low flow system. My housing is ford/mopar style so there are a lot of options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 Lines crack due to stress, typically vibration. I don't see any vibration relief put in those lines. If you look at brake lines in modern cars you'll usually see a couple of loops int eh hard line coming out f the master cylinder. That is why those loops are there, to provide the relief needed to prevent the lines from cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 Exactly. Usually 2 loops. Master is on body, and prop valve is on frame. Stuff moves, lines work harden and break. but rigid mounted housing on block shouldnt break. but heat cycles may be the cause, and just the vibration too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 (edited) As far as flex tubing Im wondering if grease whip hose will withstand the temperature. May have to do some research and testing. I know hydraulic hose is up to the task. Edited February 6, 2020 by Tooljunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 Stainless brake line? I have seen a couple instances of using rubber brake hose for a temporary fix to replace the oil pressure gauge line. And know of two or three where temporary is creeping up on ten years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 I'm planning to put a replaceable filter housing on my 218 in place of the sealed canister one I have. I am using cupro-nickle hard line, which is pretty easy to form. I will put a loop, or two, in each line to deal with stress issues. When I get the job done I will document it on my site and post a link. Info on the hard line I plan to use https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted February 6, 2020 Report Share Posted February 6, 2020 (edited) Install the loop if you wish, but the filter is hard mounted to the engine so there is no relative motion. The original lines didn't have loops....the fuel and vacuum lines are straight without loops..... The hard line you referenced is what you'll get at the auto parts store if you request brake line that can be bent by hand. All the fuel, brake and oil lines on my car are the cupro-nickel stuff sourced from the local car part emporiums. Edited February 6, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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